tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22002063701725599432024-02-18T05:50:14.395-08:00Life of A Walking MonkeyJameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.comBlogger141125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-777654197370727222014-02-19T08:18:00.000-08:002014-02-19T08:18:23.883-08:00How To Be A Dirtbag Climber<div class="MsoNormal">
Every day 500,000* outdoor enthusiasts put on rock shoes for
the first time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With every new climber,
differentiating yourself from the rest of the patchouli stench of the frat boys
and small sports bra wearing girls becomes more difficult.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dare to be different by embodying the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">true </i>essence of climbing- be a dirtbag. Here
are a few tips on how:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Look The Part <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Buy synthetic pants made for climbing the North Face of
Gasherbaum V.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rip holes in the knees and
make a slight tear by the right rear pockets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sew crooked stitches to mend them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>People will think two things: offwidth mountaineer and haute couture. Wear
loose clothes made from thin fabric.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This will make you look skinny and poor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Buy your wardrobe at Urban Outfitters’ Labor Day Sale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU1hvoh22o_T_LQ_PMqcqssXEfSQlNh4soHpFtnvCX3_08VIVtC8KXrqlrkxbFx45jIsipgX9JQP0_1_eCu0JVlz2EjCVpVF_CfYZ4MoMOXgVHB2Jl_-Y6hyphenhyphenXJetAiDQqApZX8z_VoWrVH/s1600/photo+(80).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU1hvoh22o_T_LQ_PMqcqssXEfSQlNh4soHpFtnvCX3_08VIVtC8KXrqlrkxbFx45jIsipgX9JQP0_1_eCu0JVlz2EjCVpVF_CfYZ4MoMOXgVHB2Jl_-Y6hyphenhyphenXJetAiDQqApZX8z_VoWrVH/s1600/photo+(80).jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"I just ran a train on that problem! Choo-choo!" The knee brace adds a bit of personality to this Dirtbag's NSync meets Chris Sharma look</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Accesorize with the hottest fashions. The chalk bag purse is
the latest and greatest item to hit <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Derelict</i>
fashion. Dirt bags need a place to keep their headlamps, the carabiner with
your keys, and condoms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Biking home from
a hipster bar?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pull out your 18,000 Lumen
headlamp from your trusty man-purse, clip that magnetron keychain to your single
speed bicycle, and hold tight to your Gore-Tex condoms. You may need those when
you’re big spoon on the Fitz Roy Traverse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Who cares if you spent $75 dollars on Manhattans? So what if the nearest
crag is a hundred miles away. You got a chalk bag man purse. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Have the Gear<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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New Harness. New Rope. New crashpad. New rack. New Shoes.
Eight pairs of new shoes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two of the
same kind and size.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Everything new.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then buy a Sprinter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A new one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The tall model.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The long one. The
longer one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Outfit it with solar panels
to charge your cell phone booster.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Speakers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Swivel seats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wood interior. All wood interior.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Forgot pine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Use cedar, cherry, mahogany.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Carpet.
Granite counter tops. Memory foam bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Refridgerator for cold Pelligrini.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Extra space for unused cams, a portaledge for Hueco, and a place for
your loofah.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pXWw-ERecFeTs42rikUA86XdrY3Q95vvSQUwg_HbCywA9hA3MyzsHdngBy36etmTg5g3Qw07G4wZO28Y7e6WFlbPOEXoc3SJB-6fF1tQP4fjPrDLP56LMP4pe1dnzr4j-id3I9P3yVmn/s1600/sprinter_big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pXWw-ERecFeTs42rikUA86XdrY3Q95vvSQUwg_HbCywA9hA3MyzsHdngBy36etmTg5g3Qw07G4wZO28Y7e6WFlbPOEXoc3SJB-6fF1tQP4fjPrDLP56LMP4pe1dnzr4j-id3I9P3yVmn/s1600/sprinter_big.jpg" height="217" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Colorado Dirtbag parked this Sprinter in Indian Creek for 3 weeks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spray<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Honestly- nobody cares how hard or if you even do climb. The
best dirtbags rarely leave the confines of the internet. They spray. Be stoked
that grandma gave you her old Canon 5d Mark 3.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Take a selfie hang dogging a sport project. Email it to your iPhone 5.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Post it to Instagram. Hashtag it. Hashtag the
grade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Inflate the Hashtag grade. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hashtag everything. Literally #everything.
#mylifeisbetterthanyours Remember that one. Update your 8a card.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Misspell <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bunny’s
Crack</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Call it <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Dura Dura.</i> It’s only a couple letters. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Update your Twitter account by chopping up Robert Frost
poems.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Make them into haikus. New
Facebook Status: ERMEHGAWD I saved $500 on my plane ticket to Rocklands!!! 12
day lay over in Font!!! Dirtbags can afford two thousand dollar plane tickets
but are insanely stoked when they save any money. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So go with three exclamation marks on any
post. Minimum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Career<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Being able to travel all the time is a luxury few people can
afford.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The school teachers, the carpenters,
the working class warriors at the crag will wonder how a dirtbag can pay for a yearly
trip to Spain. Distract their trust fund assumptions by talking about your “work.”
Describe your career path as that of a fresh-faced social media guru with a
passion for budget travel, exploring the outdoors, and promoting the art of the
American road trip. That reeks of authenticity. Complain about your lack of
funds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You survived a whole week off
seven pints of chocolate milk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s
$7.70.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hide the $350 dollar Whole Foods
Christmas gift card from Aunt Janice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibI_ZcmvOxvqAzKSKIEEFRwQS9kILpPg1aXUmCZIiKYhgKUcM-WWWrwklDSfTBtxBLPC1X1nq_3ZMEuRAxwCw64ii8OfILBVisxU-PhuxF37mqmTNf8vrWTbDFAcBGgOuyDc1fHlL_vl3d/s1600/127_521791109338_9101_n.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibI_ZcmvOxvqAzKSKIEEFRwQS9kILpPg1aXUmCZIiKYhgKUcM-WWWrwklDSfTBtxBLPC1X1nq_3ZMEuRAxwCw64ii8OfILBVisxU-PhuxF37mqmTNf8vrWTbDFAcBGgOuyDc1fHlL_vl3d/s1600/127_521791109338_9101_n.jpeg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never forget to wear lots of expensive clothes with nice logos while you act like a vagabond #NEVERSTOPSLEEPING</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pick a Destination<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Travel to a place where lots of other climbers hang
out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yosemite. Indian Creek. Squamish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rifle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Never shower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s essential to
being a dirtbag right? No showers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be
dirty because you’re lazy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s so
cool. Never climb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just hang out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hang out a lot. Be ubiquitous. #Imhereherehere
Never forget #mylifeisbetterthanyours Be the first person to show up at the
morning coffee spot. Be the last one to leave. Just say, “Dia de siesta.” Then
roll your eyes, “that’s Spanish for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rest
Day</i>.” Stay too long on friend’s couches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Move in with your climbing partner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Move in with their parents.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ask
someone else’s mom to do your laundry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhllbeEVAzjnp6aLRUEAF4pYH6hs-eskspc27JYk7mmTiWu8eZcQutVpDJXmZnlzDWpla7XYYhMIbQiFdmIVwjltPp67IRasFltiRTz2uneR6ojOrq8xOxfHwHoVPHcEyCwvh2e58quEhds/s1600/75_511055728128_7007_n.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhllbeEVAzjnp6aLRUEAF4pYH6hs-eskspc27JYk7mmTiWu8eZcQutVpDJXmZnlzDWpla7XYYhMIbQiFdmIVwjltPp67IRasFltiRTz2uneR6ojOrq8xOxfHwHoVPHcEyCwvh2e58quEhds/s1600/75_511055728128_7007_n.jpeg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Max Hasson snapped this photo of two climbers who began their climbing day at noon and ended it at 1 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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The most important part of embodying the dirtbag lifestyle
is small ambitions. Quit when things become difficult.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Run back to your comfortable life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Never dream of free climbing El Capitan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stop thinking of bolting new crags, of climbing
new boulder problems, of inching past your limit. Stop thinking of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>anything that requires years of commitment
and utter obsession. Never get close to your dreams. Never try to be more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be a dirtbag climber.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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*fictional statistic<o:p></o:p></div>
Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-20223963674572657702014-02-12T14:38:00.000-08:002014-02-12T15:23:05.122-08:00Help Wanted: Personal Assistant/Executive Secretary<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Job Title:</span></b><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8pt;"> Personal Assistant/ Executive Secretary</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">
<b>Reports to:</b> The Last Dirtbag<br />
<b>Date:</b> February 2014<br />
<b>Location:</b> Las Vegas, Nevada and Yosemite, California <br />
<b>To apply, email</b></span><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> <span style="color: #666666;">Please
indicate the specific position you are applying for either in the email subject
line, and/or in your cover letter; if sending in a general application, please
indicate it as such. Try to keep the size of your email under 500K (including
attachments).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Include a full body
portrait Justin Bieber selfie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-wt1RJqJ0Ht8pMyZr7-CarEDBwChSsr2WUy9KTO4MSmH69LWnrZBO-a483G8eTVEnBmpx5hWs52hR1W5g225V0VcNz-mx-oiLnPELcaQ100axnYc_Cia5kjiv-pJvTpPY4KxeHch2Bii/s1600/marthacopy+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-wt1RJqJ0Ht8pMyZr7-CarEDBwChSsr2WUy9KTO4MSmH69LWnrZBO-a483G8eTVEnBmpx5hWs52hR1W5g225V0VcNz-mx-oiLnPELcaQ100axnYc_Cia5kjiv-pJvTpPY4KxeHch2Bii/s1600/marthacopy+(2).jpg" height="320" style="cursor: move;" width="213" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin: 0px;">
Your future employer</div>
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<b><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">General Summary:</span></b><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">With my personal business as the Last Dirtbag of Climbing, exploding
over the past few months, I’ve found myself with less time to attend to daily
and minute activities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am currently
searching for a personal assistant, someone who can act as my first point of
contact for people both inside and outside the rock climbing and media community.
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
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<b><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Essential Job
Functions:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Daily functions run the gamut from executing
strategic social media and digital intiatives to promote my personal branding
to jumaring behind me on El Capitan free routes, cleaning my car, and doing my
laundry.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Minimum Job
Qualifications:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">o BA, BFA or BS in Communications, Journalism,
English or Under-water basket weaving.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Graduate level or PHD highly encouraged.<br />
o 10+ years relevant experience in rock climbing personal assistant field.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">o 2006 Medcedes Sprinter with all wood
interior, built in granite top kitchenette, appropriate features for travel and
a willingness to trade your van for my Saturn Station Wagon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">o Demonstrated leadership experience with the
ability to mentor others.<br />
o Working knowledge of personal computers with demonstrated experience in the
use of social media platforms: Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, KIK, and LinkedIn
Ghost Hunters edition<br />
o Keen understanding of how to make me look really good<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Compensation Package:</span></b><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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the thirty day probationary period, they will pay $10 an hour cash with payment
increasing to $1 an hour every thirty days to a cap of $25 an hour. The assistant will also pay for dental,
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possibility of full-time. </span><!--EndFragment--></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-32282634399349657812014-02-07T16:58:00.002-08:002014-02-07T17:00:42.216-08:00Suddenly Irresistible<div class="MsoNormal">
Last night while I stuffed my face with a double patty
burger, I realized that I had become 50% more attractive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the hour I spent hobbling from Goodwill
for crutches, Walmart for an ankle brace and ibuprofen, and then into In N Out
for a double-double, a half dozen women talked to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While I can’t count past ten with my shoes
on, those numbers were double what I’d experienced in the past week of Las
Vegas climbing. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><center><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixF2ss_Ef0DeGcVFICr8vZes1nfACkdavUAmJ16S0lk658_7PWDsqABly98BvfngqS9APk3LDeQcC_1EQelVVXxAcfDZdn4fIXZjXjMex1l8AuPIanzXMDeYaplBOLVgWg0jdheOxInSuU/s1600/photo+(81).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixF2ss_Ef0DeGcVFICr8vZes1nfACkdavUAmJ16S0lk658_7PWDsqABly98BvfngqS9APk3LDeQcC_1EQelVVXxAcfDZdn4fIXZjXjMex1l8AuPIanzXMDeYaplBOLVgWg0jdheOxInSuU/s1600/photo+(81).JPG" height="400" width="298" /></center></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yesterday started horribly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I woke to a text at 1 am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Food
poisoning rocked my climbing partner and he couldn’t make it out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bummed that he was sick and couldn’t climb, I
texted my friends in Mesquite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were
heading to the Phalanx of Will.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I jetted
out there, cranking out the 90 miles as fast as I could, hoping to meet them at
the campsite while they were still making coffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were already gone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I followed vague SummitPost.org directions to
the crag and got lost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Frustrated, I
steamed in my car.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I drove to the nearby Virgin River Gorge, where I knew there
would be some climbers there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Brian, a
Salt Lake climber hiked the steep limestone warm-up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I followed after him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Half way up, I jammed my right foot into a
pod.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The holds felt slick and I botched
the sequence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I fell with my ankle still
in the rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It hurt.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“That looked bad,” Brian said when I lowered to the
ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I stormed up the route again,
then once more, trying to shake off the pain welling in my foot.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Vian joined us, climbed the route then set up a toprope on
another warm up for me. I followed it apprehensively.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Maybe my ankle would be ok?” I thought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I jumared up a fixed minitraxion line and
established a toprope on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Fall of Man</i>.
I climbed the route tentatively, my baggy shoes felt tight and the climbing
felt hard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My ankle swelled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Vian tried a couple of pitches and I hung out to belay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The climbing had exacerbated the injury and I
wouldn’t be back on the rock that day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
hobbled the 15 feet between my pack and the belay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“You look really gimpy,” Vian said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Let me tape your ankle.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Vian grabbed a roll of athletic tape and made a few figure
8s on my ankle. I felt a lot better.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was very nice of her.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I struggled from the crag to my car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My ankle felt extremely swollen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It hurt a lot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought about crying but walked instead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I drove back to my friend’s house in
Vegas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I got crutches, wrapped my ankle, ate a burger and then
slept for a long time. I thought about work, what I could do to become more
productive and how to make the most of the experience. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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A few years ago, when I fell soloing in Joshua Tree, my
friend Greta made me a shirt with a picture of a walker on it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It said, “Walker’s are irresistible.” There’s a lot of truth to that. While I was recovering from the 8 surgeries, people seemed so much more interested in hearing my stories and talking with me. Maybe this evening, I’ll cruise by the
Walmart McDonald’s. The ladies there
probably have lots of love to give an injured man. My ankle will heal soon, especially if I take care of myself. The crutches aren’t quite my old walker but
they’re certain to add a bit to my charm. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I'm suddenly irresistible. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-9008587546555975982014-01-02T21:23:00.002-08:002014-01-02T22:03:37.959-08:00The Best Christmas Prank Ever: aka How I Am A Genius<div class="MsoNormal">
“HO HO HO! MERRY CHRISTMAS!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>YOU”VE BEEN A VERY GOOD GIRL ANNIE! HO HO HO! MERRY CHRISTMAS!”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seven different Santa Claus impersonators
called Annie within an hour and a half.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>She panicked, unsure why her phone kept ringing with fake Santas from
Los Angeles.<o:p></o:p></div>
<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/YMwcMkJOgD0" width="560"></iframe></center>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It started when I gave her a ride to the airport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the dash of my Saturn, I keep a collection
of baseball caps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My Retired and Loving
It hat sits above the stereo and never moves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>My grey Patagonia hat comes out during climbing trips.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My Stihl Chainsaw hat only leaves the car
when I want to look like a dashing lumberjack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Of my 3 hats, it’s my newest and favorite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At 9am, I stopped at Annie’s house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At 9:15, we drove towards SLC airport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At 9:40, she sent me a picture from the
plane.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was wearing my Stihl Chainsaw
hat. She stole my hat from my car while I was being nice and giving her a ride to the airport on an early Saturday morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over the next few days, she sent me
pictures of the hat in California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Here’s a picture of your hat on a Merry-Go-Round.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here’s a picture of your hat at a yardsale,
lost in a bunch of other hats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here’s a
picture of your hat on a statue in a San Luis Obispo park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The photos kept coming and I kept getting
angrier.<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEyk14x-HhNLUFj8Tvf9BKhPogKhNhfkkFgen3Se1MjxWCQKT2uEDETbJiTBuQJpXSKxHpJYAhixRSIvG38l3LgFKq9uesiUupCr0OY4BaAcuUWpiIDdPFx0VfWDQj0mzF9Fy5t_WVcZz/s1600/imgres.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEyk14x-HhNLUFj8Tvf9BKhPogKhNhfkkFgen3Se1MjxWCQKT2uEDETbJiTBuQJpXSKxHpJYAhixRSIvG38l3LgFKq9uesiUupCr0OY4BaAcuUWpiIDdPFx0VfWDQj0mzF9Fy5t_WVcZz/s400/imgres.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After three days of taunting photos, I decided to fight
back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I sat done at my computer, went to
Craigs List. I clicked on Gigs and then Talent Wanted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I typed
away.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Santa Claus Voice Acting-$500 Casting Call</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As part of a last minute Christmas event, our production
company, Paramount Pictures, is looking to play a voice over of Santa
Claus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We want a 10 second clip of a
“Ho-ho-ho” that sounds jovial.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We want
to hear Santa’s smile through the recording.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The most talented Santa Claus voice will be brought into the
studio December 25<sup>th</sup> for a last minute recording of half an hour.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Transportation will be provided from anywhere within 200
miles of the Hollywood studio.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The voice
actor will receive a $500 cash compensation for their time.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To save time on casting please call and leave a voice
message of your best Santa impression to 555-555-5555<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Annie Trujillo<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Casting Director<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Paramount Recording<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
6245 Santa Monica Boulevard<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hollywood, CA 90038<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I posted the ad and leaned back on the couch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I laughed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Annie was in for it- the “HO HO HO!”s would stop when I got my ha-ha-hat. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<center>
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<br />
An hour and a half later, Annie posted on Facebook, "Woah. Hacked for a casting call on craigslist. I hope none of you did this as it isn't funny remotely."I laughed even more. I was a fucking genius. I was
brilliant and funny. Maybe the smartest
man in the room and certainly the funniest. Sure nobody else was there but I couldn't stop laughing. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-28910345743593569192013-12-03T16:23:00.003-08:002013-12-03T16:37:09.039-08:00My One Fall SeasonMy legs burned. I coughed as I
hiked above the smoke of the Rim Fire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
trip to drop the line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another trip to
hike a second line. The excitement of freeing the granite monolith pushed my
legs faster.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I stopped only to take a
picture from the top of the East Ledges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Every trip to work the Freerider, I took a picture of Half Dome.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How many sunrises would I see before I
finished the project?<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pBfuGPYYz2z5KKiGX7PG5Jg5weyUQmsjDWZv2JD4gwDg5_N8Ti0gG5aLP9sRx0PQZkiqNjYcjXDeGWGpZQA1gnF9b20NRFMoWXh0hCu5pvZjOXStLvCUOOp8Bb33DKJtXu8QgaR3Dz8d/s1600/Freerider+Square.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pBfuGPYYz2z5KKiGX7PG5Jg5weyUQmsjDWZv2JD4gwDg5_N8Ti0gG5aLP9sRx0PQZkiqNjYcjXDeGWGpZQA1gnF9b20NRFMoWXh0hCu5pvZjOXStLvCUOOp8Bb33DKJtXu8QgaR3Dz8d/s320/Freerider+Square.jpg" width="297" /></a><br />
The smoke cleared the Valley floor
within a few days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I rappelled 1300 feet
from the top of El Capitan a half dozen times in two weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The skies grew blue again. A difficult
boulder problem, two thirds of the way up the formation, thwarted my previous
year’s efforts. 12 weeks in Rifle, a spring on Fifi Buttress in Yosemite and 50
days in Hueco prepared me to try again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I fell on the difficult moves my first few days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Frustrated I, I spent a day working a
difficult stemming variation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Todd
Skinner and Paul Piana aptly named the pitch The Teflon Corner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My feet skated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boulder problem seemed easier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I kept working on the pitch. At the end of
two weeks, I managed to free the pitch on minitraxion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpf9pN7ZJEjt4k4PtiEVAP_gviqZ4yYWo9I6p1DVFvLPkSftCpF2HOlKgoPmbA_X66Z62z6Kfab2nHjj3uIn1BQjgObN_SrTR5Iez3XzLLOFbXyPxUd1jf44llhZjih1CT_KHYzSvvf5g/s1600/941480_10101006038826988_332430601_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpf9pN7ZJEjt4k4PtiEVAP_gviqZ4yYWo9I6p1DVFvLPkSftCpF2HOlKgoPmbA_X66Z62z6Kfab2nHjj3uIn1BQjgObN_SrTR5Iez3XzLLOFbXyPxUd1jf44llhZjih1CT_KHYzSvvf5g/s320/941480_10101006038826988_332430601_n.jpg" width="400" /></a><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><br />
Matt
Ciancio stopped at the top of the East Ledges and waited for me to take a
picture of the sunrise a week later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
rappelled to the boulder problem, pulling our ropes as we descended.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the middle of the wall, I sent the
difficult moves of the boulder problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As I rested, a loud speaker yelled from the meadow below.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span>“Yosemite closed! Government
Shutdown! No recreating!” A voice cried from the meadow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A congo line appeared heading up the fixed
lines half way up El Cap, climbers determined to stay through the
shutdown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Matt and I continued up the
wall, swinging leads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I fell on two
pitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Progress in a suddenly still
Valley.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQiU5UdHZlUAOkddll3DWz4YY0rIW4TDAYnJHCX2QRYPar9h896Ei0V_yl7ShjvXB4f3BQ76giwBhXKj7pluNh1G2JOGqcsPzmKOL6dDGL3s3IyGUOf4XSbzom3LahKlD9CWm2q5xdZqD-/s1600/Yosemite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQiU5UdHZlUAOkddll3DWz4YY0rIW4TDAYnJHCX2QRYPar9h896Ei0V_yl7ShjvXB4f3BQ76giwBhXKj7pluNh1G2JOGqcsPzmKOL6dDGL3s3IyGUOf4XSbzom3LahKlD9CWm2q5xdZqD-/s320/Yosemite.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Yosemite remained quiet for 18
days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The absence of tourists holding
cameras out their car doors, of hikers snapping pictures of the Yosemite falls
with their camera phones, of buses loudly driving the Valley loop became the
most obvious part of the closure. With the quiet, finding solitude became easy.<br />
The wildlife noticed as well.<br />
Though the government closed the
park to visitors, nature remained open. With fewer chances of human
interaction, the wildlife emerged from the trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bears wandered through Camp 4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Foxes ran across the roads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A small owl hid beneath the rocks on the top
of El Capitan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The normally domesticated
deer, who eat crackers from tourists’ hands, suddenly shied away. The animals
became feral. They returned to nature.<br />
A certain wildness spread through
the park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPN4Q1pkLcxWWXlqPhxzNTXo8IY9B2frBcnCjte5hhb93fNrukey_r-S4ufqu9b_cVK97lUWZ28aW1xvSu9OVsaAaSUm0PPLBwI1353OPCVDrkKMXdis6aAfIfsGfwzoOPmGLeKjGkUtKt/s1600/Camp+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPN4Q1pkLcxWWXlqPhxzNTXo8IY9B2frBcnCjte5hhb93fNrukey_r-S4ufqu9b_cVK97lUWZ28aW1xvSu9OVsaAaSUm0PPLBwI1353OPCVDrkKMXdis6aAfIfsGfwzoOPmGLeKjGkUtKt/s320/Camp+4.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The bipartisian gridlock suspended
recreation in the park. Climbers parked at the base of El Capitan received
tickets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A local ranger issued a
citation to a Nose in a day party.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“Closure of Public Use” read the $175 ticket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My Saturn, embossed on the hood with the Stonemaster’s
lightning bolt, taxied an El Cap climber out of the park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the moonlight, two base jumpers flew over
El Cap. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Base jumping, rock climbing and
interperative nature walks became the activites of criminals. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFiLWAv7L4_UpaJyR5_r-pFLb-h12ilVVRT-9OEmFw7dXpdnPTYKNZSlogEps1tLvDQU5kYJz1zE30qb1j2Ok399WAotUhP5zSh9NUsCez4A-UylwrRN6JhUAW_4nzJLq2Dn5_Nk0OnhPD/s1600/Nutcracker+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFiLWAv7L4_UpaJyR5_r-pFLb-h12ilVVRT-9OEmFw7dXpdnPTYKNZSlogEps1tLvDQU5kYJz1zE30qb1j2Ok399WAotUhP5zSh9NUsCez4A-UylwrRN6JhUAW_4nzJLq2Dn5_Nk0OnhPD/s320/Nutcracker+3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglIDojKD0ggqgJZ2HawSH95wwYx0QOoAj4BfgPXLWVXVuWpGa9BNwpSEcTgNRp2I_AgAnNEGCrgr6MmLwg8Rp4rtvzpECnrE2GRshMStwU_7x6iOVzqSaGn7ECThF64hcTmhgwl2rkweMr/s1600/Freerider+alarm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglIDojKD0ggqgJZ2HawSH95wwYx0QOoAj4BfgPXLWVXVuWpGa9BNwpSEcTgNRp2I_AgAnNEGCrgr6MmLwg8Rp4rtvzpECnrE2GRshMStwU_7x6iOVzqSaGn7ECThF64hcTmhgwl2rkweMr/s320/Freerider+alarm.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">Unwilling to wait for mankind to improve, the outlaw lives as if that
day were here.” Tom Robbins wrote in Still Life with Woodpecker.<br /> <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">I set the alarm for 3:30am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hayden Kennedy and I biked from Yosemite
village to the top of El Capitan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the
top of the East Ledges, I snapped a picture of Half Dome. We rappelled to the
boulder problem and climbed out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were
the only climbers on the monolith.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Devoid of tourist buses, the usual stream of traffic and gawkers,
Yosemite felt wild and adventurous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
climbed out from the boulder problem.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYbmS80pp5lPxD-zIjefQjGGWaulVYXpbHzLYoEirv0UFUYIf_4dXoO4rH7Cln73tmPX7tNPavkjcAUwAs_w-xhHKRdfIHrzIGuWGFJG1mI1FruI1HfdFJTM2pfBL4ypcEbmwZmQUjEst/s1600/Freerider+corner+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYbmS80pp5lPxD-zIjefQjGGWaulVYXpbHzLYoEirv0UFUYIf_4dXoO4rH7Cln73tmPX7tNPavkjcAUwAs_w-xhHKRdfIHrzIGuWGFJG1mI1FruI1HfdFJTM2pfBL4ypcEbmwZmQUjEst/s400/Freerider+corner+2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">The climb went smoothly enough.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hayden dispatched the boulder problem with a
little effort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I sent it was well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The corners went well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the last offwidth, the notorious Scotty
Burke, I tied my shoes too tight and wore thick socks in my high top climbing
boots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I desperately laybacked past the
wide climbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My numb feet skated off
the rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I whipped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rope grated along the edge cutting
through the sheath of the rope and into the core. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Scary. Falling from the top of El Cap would be
a miserable thing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dying wouldn’t be so
bad, everyone does it, but falling from the top of El Cap gives you so much
time to think about it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglFuifPk-65G8UVzqcQkazDqx62-5_ydePuKPEaHmKx2HnyHWnqChWpzq9VC1-dMzpfMo-_DnQuwncQfqWlwSYANpxgq-I3lmx60_SsRCPcI9VKe40eQIVFDfS6NMelcZMRf6XwTAQ0HM4/s1600/+COreshotScotty+Burke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglFuifPk-65G8UVzqcQkazDqx62-5_ydePuKPEaHmKx2HnyHWnqChWpzq9VC1-dMzpfMo-_DnQuwncQfqWlwSYANpxgq-I3lmx60_SsRCPcI9VKe40eQIVFDfS6NMelcZMRf6XwTAQ0HM4/s320/+COreshotScotty+Burke.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">Rope breaks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You fall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There goes the corner
pitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bye bye boulder problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now you’re accelerating past the alcove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later Monster Offwidth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still Falling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Say goodbye to Hollow Flake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe you’ll miss Heart Ledges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’re almost to the ground. But wait there’s
Mark of Art, Sacher Cracker and if you look up you can still see: BOOM! You’re
finally dead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span></span><span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">Hayden and I hiked down towards the East ledges
descent of El Cap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the top of the
Zodiac, Liv Sansov and Vanessa Francois, a paraplegic woman who had just done
4,000 pull ups through the closure to summit El Capitan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It as pretty inspiring to see her on top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgyEWWmHhtTFuw-UjNUukPy2G4MQM4kD6FxejcyvWTIwI6EcW4AltHh9y7glWk72CNRukA8pND1FHnoUoAesac1AYQqNQtNidOEHVsPz9k5duEN6iBRjtoCN1BceNWu5dP2mdoUyp89MWp/s1600/El+Capitan2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgyEWWmHhtTFuw-UjNUukPy2G4MQM4kD6FxejcyvWTIwI6EcW4AltHh9y7glWk72CNRukA8pND1FHnoUoAesac1AYQqNQtNidOEHVsPz9k5duEN6iBRjtoCN1BceNWu5dP2mdoUyp89MWp/s320/El+Capitan2.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">Hayden left the next day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sport climbing instead of El Cap adventuring
called him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For a few days, I felt
lost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The closure was nice and quiet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No one was around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finding partners became impossible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I minitraxioned Cosmic DebrisI soloed Royal
Arches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I enjoyed the solitude.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The absence of tourists made Yosemite feel
special.</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfSXqXaA2hU01fn6S-4nl6Rp84kZ0RQy85oIuxibcOthXzhZYTtq6pnYtTqFoh8rE-h3ofW2N1AQn0QCehl3qT14z6sy3H37TfojSRy3hwgYQLexEF-fimyvDnH-m-r2dW2zDiRfkvM1z/s1600/james+on+cosmic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfSXqXaA2hU01fn6S-4nl6Rp84kZ0RQy85oIuxibcOthXzhZYTtq6pnYtTqFoh8rE-h3ofW2N1AQn0QCehl3qT14z6sy3H37TfojSRy3hwgYQLexEF-fimyvDnH-m-r2dW2zDiRfkvM1z/s320/james+on+cosmic.jpg" width="338" /></a><span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2frlHPCYGMMyNcTEi5i_LeTqAqjZaMAXm815OEYRsW64SR3Hgt8ZD1fmzV7o4zyBjjkDYyI1ZaKmKpjZttOtIUKazs79dInpemEunqYxqJzFefqsMJ4GwXaF3C047HG2c-cEzJRbA3RA3/s1600/Kimvan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2frlHPCYGMMyNcTEi5i_LeTqAqjZaMAXm815OEYRsW64SR3Hgt8ZD1fmzV7o4zyBjjkDYyI1ZaKmKpjZttOtIUKazs79dInpemEunqYxqJzFefqsMJ4GwXaF3C047HG2c-cEzJRbA3RA3/s320/Kimvan.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
All the solitary time allowed me to reevaluate an old relationship. I wondered what I could have done better. I needed to grow more. I was close but had failed. I tried to focus on climbing.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyqUjRt1-qdW2-7h8tztw8j4qBiI0r94x5nrSTyI7-IsXRNcdjRldSUxcJXW_2DhD9SrHIez6AIBxWJ6ySIsg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
I screamed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every move felt harder than the
previous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I kept trying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I stepped my feet onto the horizontal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two more moves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My hand reached for the thin finger lock. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pitched. I screamed as I fell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Disappointed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>So close. During the closure, I worked out the moves on Cosmic Debris, a
difficult crack climb behind the Chapel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I worked the route a lot the previous year but fell off the thin
finish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then it snowed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This fall, I managed to toprope the route
cleanly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was close.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4IlIZf1pksF2IBIp3eDX-tGLakWm8W-76ulKIiIEr1JDe40ETG7DAESo32DB96eFN4kRQFsWW5QoxXroSrsDEMOl0Mr3UuHiDg1bZsRUvZB5FrPU79sVubKIW8hJ7fdILS1YzVUbIk7v/s1600/Hazel+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4IlIZf1pksF2IBIp3eDX-tGLakWm8W-76ulKIiIEr1JDe40ETG7DAESo32DB96eFN4kRQFsWW5QoxXroSrsDEMOl0Mr3UuHiDg1bZsRUvZB5FrPU79sVubKIW8hJ7fdILS1YzVUbIk7v/s320/Hazel+4.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
“That was a really good effort,”
Hazel said. The young Brit flew into the States from South Africa and met me a
few day after her plane landed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She had
few plans other than to climb in the Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I quickly convinced her to join me on an El Cap mission. I was close on
Cosmic Debris.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe I’d send both
Freerider and Cosmic this fall.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1kEU3DvkUbeK-Yg7ApK8sh-SZgaGa9BlzpywFDU5V6CRbPamSrmz_332JgpgN5Bldq1j-saD-b8xecuy-rBmAA6-S_botvewHQNXDko7ukWhEhXfx2OySMswNZ4gQZ0ty5m7JtxRQrN_S/s1600/Gummy+Bear+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1kEU3DvkUbeK-Yg7ApK8sh-SZgaGa9BlzpywFDU5V6CRbPamSrmz_332JgpgN5Bldq1j-saD-b8xecuy-rBmAA6-S_botvewHQNXDko7ukWhEhXfx2OySMswNZ4gQZ0ty5m7JtxRQrN_S/s320/Gummy+Bear+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
For the amount of time I’ve climbed
on El Cap, I’ve spent very few nights on the granite monolith.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel and I stocked our bags full of bars,
toilet paper, plastic bags,<br />
<o:p> </o:p>We hiked to the top of El Capitan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took a picture of the sunrise from the top
of the east ledges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I scrounged a half
dozen gallons of water, extra supplies from my trips to work on the Boulder
Problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We rappelled down to the
Alcove, mid way through the route, and dropped off our haul bag.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We continued to the ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We rested the next day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The following day, we woke started climbing
at 4 am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I linked the first pitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We swung leads to Heart Ledges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I fell on the thin move off of the ledge
worked it out, and sent the pitch from the no hands stance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We continued up the route with little
difficulty.<br />
“It’s hot.” Hazel said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We sat on Hollow Flake Ledge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of the day’s work and most of the day
had passed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We still had the daunting
Monster Offwidth to finish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span>“Yup,” I said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span>We then started into one of my
favorite games.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It goes like this-
French fries or French toast, big or small, mountains or oceans, magic or
science, ties or suspenders, boxers or briefs, empty places or crowded rooms,
sun or moon, stop signs or stop lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I can’t remember what Hazel said but her answers seemed satisfactory
enough to put her on the sharp end to lead the Monster.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She fell getting into the beast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I worked out the moves but had fallen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pulled my way up and set a tr for the
beginning of the pitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel hiked through
the traverse in and then fought up the offwidth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDl2dIuK2q8jZXhsXhUV9KiwK3fT4anIoTAIQkAGJYFoe_gR3A3uBe356fd37MXPO1nWHZitBtTvmXWyB-x0xxLODj9DM-3CcU-loCYz25Z7RohrUdwQn2AOMjZSuOIKd85zSlcyRgE34/s1600/993689_236855009806857_329989063_n.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDl2dIuK2q8jZXhsXhUV9KiwK3fT4anIoTAIQkAGJYFoe_gR3A3uBe356fd37MXPO1nWHZitBtTvmXWyB-x0xxLODj9DM-3CcU-loCYz25Z7RohrUdwQn2AOMjZSuOIKd85zSlcyRgE34/s320/993689_236855009806857_329989063_n.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br />
“I don’t think I can do this,” I
said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wanted to weight the rope.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Monster ate my thigh and devoured my
elbow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was so tired.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span>“Come on,” Hazel shouted. “You can
do it.”<br />
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I dragged my corpse up to the
belay, exhausted. Hazel <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We reached our
bag in the Alcove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We set up for the
evening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I cranked the volume on my
iPod.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Talking heads vibrated the
granite walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel and I split an
apple.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ate chocolate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We danced in the dying light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span><br />
We woke before the sun and climbed
a few hundred feet to the Boulder Problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hazel worried that she wouldn’t send the pitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We raced against the sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt tired from the Monster Offwidth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span>I crimped hard and threw my thumb
against the rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pressed my two
thumbs together. I would free climb El Cap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I reached a large loaf of granite. All the hard work would be rewarded. I
moved to match the hold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A moment of
insecurity entered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then I fell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> <br /> </span>I tried the boulder problem
again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And again. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel worked the moves. I fell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel sent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The sun was coming. I tried once more. I wanted it. The sun burned the
holds into my fingers. I was tired. I fell. I pulled through and climbed to the
anchor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I slumped my head against the
wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I didn’t want Hazel to see me cry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I barely knew her.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I failed because of my inability to see
myself succeed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt like a failure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I fixed the rope.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We rappelled to our camp in the Alcove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel hung the rope made a make shift
curtain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hid from the shade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Walker Emerson climbed to the alcove on a
mission to the Teflon corner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He
rappelled back down and provided us with some much needed batteries for Hazel’s
headlamp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had brought 2 instead of 3
extra.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span>We watched the sun set. The unmistakable
whoosh accelerated past the alcove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He
flew by the Monster Offwidth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still
falling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He said goodbye to the Hollow
Flake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He missed Heart Ledges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was almost to the ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He would die!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then BOOM!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The parachute exploded
and the basejumper glided to the meadow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I slept restlessly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Feelings of failure crept into me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would try once more in the morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only once.<br />
We woke early and climbed to the
top of the Boulder Problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My headlamp
danced across the rock as I pulled onto the moves. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I mantled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I crimped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I threw my thumb
against the rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pressed my thumbs
together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I reached for the loaf.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I moved to match it. I fell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Close.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span>“Do you want to try again?” Hazel
said.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazuyDZnT4FYQdqK3EUS6RWjVUKUoMKZ27Wxj9Cgq8fwTd2oPAm9laxn8pnFbreWmBkpbORoNocg2YC3KgltsKzbtWSCNjqIURKeFAI3XqETwy6Ga0D6x2J6BXGyq8MJ0q4IB5tdb_yznI/s1600/1422407_237027686456256_255135576_n.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazuyDZnT4FYQdqK3EUS6RWjVUKUoMKZ27Wxj9Cgq8fwTd2oPAm9laxn8pnFbreWmBkpbORoNocg2YC3KgltsKzbtWSCNjqIURKeFAI3XqETwy6Ga0D6x2J6BXGyq8MJ0q4IB5tdb_yznI/s320/1422407_237027686456256_255135576_n.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
“I told myself just once.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pitch stared at me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was still much climbing to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I failed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I was a failure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Let’s keep
moving.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI61CL8Swqfbl_JduNFQJN-K09ERy5TzSgWA4N6RjjWqNGpOFIQdZqEn30R4mp8H-KUJFWp5HZu0T6Zw_Zm04zCjDHVUFWVwre7AkaWNRJLXlfEI7_p0hJzga7SFjaRjeh_fZT4zBjmjsZ/s1600/Scotty+Burke+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI61CL8Swqfbl_JduNFQJN-K09ERy5TzSgWA4N6RjjWqNGpOFIQdZqEn30R4mp8H-KUJFWp5HZu0T6Zw_Zm04zCjDHVUFWVwre7AkaWNRJLXlfEI7_p0hJzga7SFjaRjeh_fZT4zBjmjsZ/s320/Scotty+Burke+2.jpg" width="259" /></a></div>
I swam up the Sewer pitch and led
to the base of the difficult corners.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hazel dispatched the pitch easily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I followed cleanly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the second
corner, I fell clipping a fixed piece.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
pulled up, clipped the fixed hex, and continued to the anchor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I one hung the pitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whatever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I hadn’t sent the route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel
followed cleanly and dispatched the traverse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We met at the Round Table ledge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hazel fought up the fist section but got the single big cam stuck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She lowered and I finished the pitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She followed cleanly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Turbo charged by a fair amount of caffeine
shot blocks, I dispatched the Scotty Burke offwidth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel fought her way to the top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We summated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hazel free climbed El Cap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><br />
“Are you
sad you didn’t send?” Hazel said.<br />
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“It’s still
here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I want to do it in a day anyways,”
I replied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wanted to sound
nonchalant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the
fact that I failed crushed me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span>We rappelled down the Salathe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At dusk, we reached our bags in the
alcove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We considered spending another
night but decided to continue our descent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span>“It’s hard to be a lady on the wall,” Hazel said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I ate as much chocolate as I could.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hit the ground 2 hours before a snow storm
hit and soaked the Valley for a few days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hazel took the time to rest and then climb the Nose with Hans
Florine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I focused on sending Cosmic Debris.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe I could walk away with one tick?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-sZaVcyaOoVOBgbYI-nqDPaQcEttYP_w2CUW7_wCJhgG1kAu0SyiVTwdetXmOS41Zk0O7A2o14heEllAtPuSgN8bI8Z5RcLiwt6OVkCM44VjrDmGMs9oSVM3OzAcEBLAsvUZQB6ZKpuc/s1600/cosmic2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-sZaVcyaOoVOBgbYI-nqDPaQcEttYP_w2CUW7_wCJhgG1kAu0SyiVTwdetXmOS41Zk0O7A2o14heEllAtPuSgN8bI8Z5RcLiwt6OVkCM44VjrDmGMs9oSVM3OzAcEBLAsvUZQB6ZKpuc/s320/cosmic2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">I threw my finger into the granite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My finger caught on the edge of the
crack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tried desperately to reel my
body into the wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I fell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A chunk of skin hung from the side of my
index finger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I one hung another
project.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Close but not quite there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwoqkDkW6W-Np85ZCigCHR7L5yZEL3bw_p9sc6uR7o6bO8gPOA3S6vFyR4Y13uctD98K3iSAw-xbNw418Jqew' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></span></div>
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">I cleaned my gear. Hazel met me in the meadow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stared at El Cap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked at the Freerider.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hazel looked at the Nose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her boyfriend, Peter aided through the Great
Roof.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Peter and Ben wanted to climb The
Nose in a day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were far off a
reasonable time but they would summit, suffering for 28 hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They failed on the coveted in a day mission
but they accomplished something.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /> </span></span><span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="color: #181818; font-family: georgia; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">I stared up at El Capitan once more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would be taking more pictures from the top
of the East Ledges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I walked to my car and escaped the Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-23699949812795651992013-08-16T14:02:00.000-07:002013-08-19T14:43:21.693-07:00Mountain A La Mode: On Climbing and Pie<div class="MsoNormal">
“She’s a psychopath,” Ryan said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Carbondale local introduced himself over
beers at the Pour House bar when he heard talk of the pie baking contest. “My
mom’s been judging the contest for years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I’ve heard of Judy Harvey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She’s
absolutely obsessed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you win, she
may kill you.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8VrfRsi_ghmE9aqTwS3q6eV5T6SbR-23V-aJzp9-tIR5u4PgDG2Iox5wxowGTy5mWK4rW7IRDzaNy2FiVuso33hej5_RORjHK8Zgaa3EV5WIhteE8od3R6RPZi_qnC9i4fQsSKHRggCDe/s1600/marthacopy+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8VrfRsi_ghmE9aqTwS3q6eV5T6SbR-23V-aJzp9-tIR5u4PgDG2Iox5wxowGTy5mWK4rW7IRDzaNy2FiVuso33hej5_RORjHK8Zgaa3EV5WIhteE8od3R6RPZi_qnC9i4fQsSKHRggCDe/s400/marthacopy+(2).jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover Model status thanks to Tara and Andrew</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Two years ago, I was Fruit Number 1.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During a summer of Rifle sport climbing, I
dropped off a granny smith all butter crust apple pie, the first entry into the
fruit category at the Carbondale Mountain Fair annual pie baking contest. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I dreamed of being on the cover of Martha
Stewart’s Home Living, wearing an apron and holding an apple pie. I dreamed of being
a handsome climber boy killing it in the kitchen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This spring, my long term girlfriend and I broke up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To deal with it, I threw myself at free
climbing a new big wall route in Yosemite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I toiled, tried, and worked. After a few months, the route fell to my
tenacity. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With no goals left, no
girlfriend, and no direction, I felt lost. <o:p></o:p><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1uiUPB4Ki8lTuC1grzyKXEBfb0oDBS6V7uQm2YL5VXcE6S00k-3MH6tU1MyFE2JRE2aiSgdbtnHSukvv16-_ZjDV4iw8zhc44RSTx3oUKHGo3R6tt_VSQbmU9X36FDwdAhHN0EnG9fySv/s1600/1400x875_schaefer_m_0809psd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1uiUPB4Ki8lTuC1grzyKXEBfb0oDBS6V7uQm2YL5VXcE6S00k-3MH6tU1MyFE2JRE2aiSgdbtnHSukvv16-_ZjDV4iw8zhc44RSTx3oUKHGo3R6tt_VSQbmU9X36FDwdAhHN0EnG9fySv/s400/1400x875_schaefer_m_0809psd.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">The Final Frontier in Yosemite- Mikey Schaefer photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Remembering my dream, I packed quick draws, a harness,
shoes, a rolling pin and my pastry blender into my Saturn station wagon with
plans of returning to Colorado.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The competition
in Carbondale would provide direction in my life, somewhere to invest my energy,
and a chance to be a cover model. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Before leaving, I prepped for the contest by baking a
chicken pot pie in Yosemite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Traveling
east, my friends in Salt Lake City loaned me their kitchens to bake a mixed fruit
pie, an apple pie, and a strawberry rhubarb pie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBbdkJHSFDZvEIUfEFgC7KyIpoVKPOF1atW3_cUkAFJnGLc2e3PrJZ9tnxcX5-OKCBkjCZaSEcNJchd-ke2kdaHUho3BqnA3UyladD6KO07zS7olNoX-ld3Ya3Dvi004qbP5beep8St12/s1600/Applepie2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBbdkJHSFDZvEIUfEFgC7KyIpoVKPOF1atW3_cUkAFJnGLc2e3PrJZ9tnxcX5-OKCBkjCZaSEcNJchd-ke2kdaHUho3BqnA3UyladD6KO07zS7olNoX-ld3Ya3Dvi004qbP5beep8St12/s320/Applepie2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A perfect apple pie at Nik Berry's house</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While traveling, I studied endlessly, devouring cookbooks
and searching the ends of the Internet for recipes. On July 1<sup>st</sup>, The
New York Times published an article about tarts, crisps and most importantly,
summer pie recipes. I read the piece fifteen times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
Salt Lake, my friend’s mom provided beta on cold butter, on shredding apples
and how to crimp the edges for the best presentation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When she was out of the kitchen, I snapped
pictures of her grandmother’s 100 year old apple pie recipe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With a solid technical foundation, I drove to my friend
Hayden’s house by the confluence in Carbondale. Hayden’s kitchen provided a
perfect place to bake a second apple pie, a bourbon pecan pie and a chocolate
bourbon pecan. I tailored my Rifle climbing towards pie baking. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Me climbing on the long 8th Day in Rifle photo by Tara Reynvaan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The steep limestone routes provided core training.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The small edges allowed me to crimp until my
fingers cracked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sidepulls worked my
hand strength. By the end of the month, I used an ab roller to press out the
pie crust.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I crimped the edges of the
pie to perfection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I broke apples in
half.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beyond the training, I sought
advice from master bakers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For the past 20 years Judy Harvey has dominated the
Carbondale Mountain Fair pie baking contest. White and dark chocolate mousse. Boysen
berries. Caramel coconut creams peaked with translucent amber spikes of
macadamia nut brittle. Judy mastered these recipes and the subtleties of pie
baking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 2005, the Aspen Times
featured Judy in an article about the contest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Her husband, Roger spoke of Judy’s determination describing trial run
pies stuffing their garage refrigerator and inviting friends over at all hours
to test the pies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On competition days,
Harvey wakes at 4 am to begin baking. I wanted her obsession.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg1xJdEMMYzPWEUdTd_ZXF0y-JJa4SSbQJTSjnd9W3qIYtPG0X0a5DH-fNkZCAx07_sssSpt9QMhxqfeJ-pUUxRqS_BCMK3CIcay-zb_5zPG49OieMVPbXbrJN2B9we9yvaGJ8BHfsyzZx/s1600/DSC_1021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg1xJdEMMYzPWEUdTd_ZXF0y-JJa4SSbQJTSjnd9W3qIYtPG0X0a5DH-fNkZCAx07_sssSpt9QMhxqfeJ-pUUxRqS_BCMK3CIcay-zb_5zPG49OieMVPbXbrJN2B9we9yvaGJ8BHfsyzZx/s320/DSC_1021.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Carbondale phone book provided her number. Judy shied
away when I first rang.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“My family is
setting up camp for the 4<sup>th</sup> of July.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Can I call you back?” she said. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After
3 days of silence, I dialed again. The call went straight to her voicemail. The
master baker ignored my pie enthusiasm. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Despite Judy’s reluctance to share pie secrets and the rumor
of her homicidal tendencies, my mission to bake the perfect pie held true to
course.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A climber’s BBQ offered a chance
to serve a strawberry rhubarb pie and a third apple pie. Jen and Andrew, a pair
of local Rifle climbers, allowed me to bake a peach pie at their house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I baked until I only saw imperfections in the
pies. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The crust that Andrew left, the
extra peaches that Jen pushed to the side and Hayden stopping at his third
piece became the objects of my obsession.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I baked until I hated pie. My climbing schedule, my life revolved around
my next chance to bake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I transformed
into the obsessive Judy Harvey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgocT5gTVSuDW4tYH25quvpNqMyKhqvxtNL_eoW1PJ-obCKlyowpqwrNoCtdSNjZmVAPbbYgc94Elw3_fxL3PZVcNZfr29l4n7b6Eo-HQwxxw3COR1mvbuj9MryGi_67buy51OK-f16bpdH/s1600/flowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgocT5gTVSuDW4tYH25quvpNqMyKhqvxtNL_eoW1PJ-obCKlyowpqwrNoCtdSNjZmVAPbbYgc94Elw3_fxL3PZVcNZfr29l4n7b6Eo-HQwxxw3COR1mvbuj9MryGi_67buy51OK-f16bpdH/s320/flowers.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A flower catching the sunrise on Mount Sopris</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In between baking pies and climbing rocks, I shuffled along
the edge of Thompson Lake, stubbing my toe in the dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the edge of the water, the summit ridge
to Mount Sopris, the highest peak in Carbondale’s Elk Range, hid behind the
impending sunrise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A week of insomnia wrecked
me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The alpine hiking helped alleviate
my angst and aimlessness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While
wandering lost around the lake at 3am, I fixated on a conversation a fellow lifestyle
climber and I had.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilGvWZJjWMQ9ZqORxNjMCen5dJ6QrbUTm9E_bc7bYRHq73wRLRiePKm2DiAbokFTP7-rU_EH3TM4MCYKcFtA_K6DgqBEdlIjc85jwg4KlD3qS_n0on7kmMapU1-fM2TTwvzI22pDja4PjF/s1600/cryptic+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilGvWZJjWMQ9ZqORxNjMCen5dJ6QrbUTm9E_bc7bYRHq73wRLRiePKm2DiAbokFTP7-rU_EH3TM4MCYKcFtA_K6DgqBEdlIjc85jwg4KlD3qS_n0on7kmMapU1-fM2TTwvzI22pDja4PjF/s320/cryptic+9.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colette McInerney working on Cryptic Egyptian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Don’t you think it’s weird that you just climb all the
time?” Colette asked me. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We could see
Sopris from the confluence where we sat, splitting the last piece of chocolate
bourbon pecan pie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A full-time climber,
Colette had begun a transition towards a career, a life beyond rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
poked at the pie crust, unsure of how to answer. This trip was supposed to be
about more than just climbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My travels
east, the pie baking contest were supposed to provide direction, to provide a distraction
while I found something more permanent. After the contest, I’d be back where I
started- driving my car to climb at another sport crag, to find more boulders,
or explore new big walls. Climbing, like pie baking, is amazing but ultimately
pointless.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There must be more to life than
rock climbing and pie baking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What was
it?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOZQHW-YAmrIhhfOYQRPEYWbnBtC5FbiNJNKtFgLIo6OQUww6dMvcpH2Y5mANIBvcwpbjZ71I92buytNRNvWx55LDt1bXKfs1qzcPiXwgOVwygIOwKOgOUA_IYyH5_4tPhQaJsPV94dcS/s1600/Hayden1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOZQHW-YAmrIhhfOYQRPEYWbnBtC5FbiNJNKtFgLIo6OQUww6dMvcpH2Y5mANIBvcwpbjZ71I92buytNRNvWx55LDt1bXKfs1qzcPiXwgOVwygIOwKOgOUA_IYyH5_4tPhQaJsPV94dcS/s320/Hayden1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Hayden climbing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On Saturday, July 28<sup>th</sup> at 6 am, I hustled over to
Hayden’s house, where I preheated the oven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The butter cut into the flour perfectly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The melted chocolate mixed with pecans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Maple syrup and bourbon provided sweetness and taste. The ingredients filled
a 9 inch pie pan and baked in the oven for an hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At 10:30, I entered my pie into the exotic category
at the Carbondale Mountain Fair Annual Pie Baking Contest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The exotic category contained a half dozen
entries. A meat pie with hotdogs woven into the lattice seemed suspect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other pecan pie appeared weak next to
mine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The meringue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That looked good. The fruit category
contained nearly a dozen pies from apple to cherry to pear. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The crème category held just a few pies. I
nervously waited for the judges results. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That night, climbers from across the US gathered in a
Carbondale barn for Jen and Andrew’s wedding. Thunder, lightning and afternoon
showers dissipated moments before the ceremony.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jen’s father walked her down the
aisle. Andrew’s father gave a heart felt speech about new love and old love. The
two climbers made a life long union, they were making more of their lives than
just the rocks they climbed. It was beautiful. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The wedding offered me a chance to stop fixating on the
contest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Watching these two friends in
love helped me realize that perhaps there was more to life than climbing and
baking. Jen and Andrew discovered something special in their relationship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Climbing, while pointless, had brought the
two together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My respite from my obsessions was short lived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In between the ceremony and the dancing, a
dozen different climbers asked me about the competition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fXk-e4EWS5fotM_lyGpvxAOayUvKqUG9XrxfNOHuQYBuFKYAIJsW_uqKqPbRBKywFbae8RPFaBvW7CeHsEGxxgFLbEmp6SdqcSMbhS1ZtiMJke99Xi1IPAOfBo1XCOCBqU_zvvE-6wXB/s1600/534199_10151511001275706_2020777663_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fXk-e4EWS5fotM_lyGpvxAOayUvKqUG9XrxfNOHuQYBuFKYAIJsW_uqKqPbRBKywFbae8RPFaBvW7CeHsEGxxgFLbEmp6SdqcSMbhS1ZtiMJke99Xi1IPAOfBo1XCOCBqU_zvvE-6wXB/s320/534199_10151511001275706_2020777663_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew and Jen photo by Sam Elias</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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“Did you win?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Did
you beat the blue-haired grandmas?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“You
send the gnar at the fair bro?”<o:p></o:p></div>
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“No.” “No.” No.” I answered, explaining the training, my
alpine start, and putting in my best effort. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Baking pies while living out of a station
wagon proved difficult.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My lackluster
excuses did little to negate my loss.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
hardest part to explain was that I never wanted to win the contest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
wanted to find direction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If I’d been
asked if I was still aimless, then I could have answered, “Yes.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For six weeks, baking and climbing consumed my Colorado
life. I expected an answer to my aimlessness, an answer that would come without
having to consciously think about why I was wandering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I expected an epiphany while rolling out pie
crust.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Flashes of inspiration happen
slower than that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are the product
of circling around an idea, drawing closer and closer to it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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While Judy Harvey sat in her kitchen shuffling through recipes
for next year’s contest, I packed my Saturn station and prepared to orbit
another climbing destination. I buried my pastry blender beneath my old
climbing shoes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I left my pie pan at Jen
and Andrew’s house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weather in
Yosemite would cool soon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I drove east
from Colorado knowing Judy and I would continue our pointless obsessions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe someday, we’d figure out why we did
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBkW4eVp7qK9wgATbOK__yky7-Luvnm-HTBnkLogpNXBxuXVOe09iDL9PFgidgJX3IR8PFwexvHLb068SURGjsFzC-WO_HdjOUXSfvneLkznN4UPiobo7fIeC7NHMkxoXExXR8Hpe4GCV/s1600/The+Saturn2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBkW4eVp7qK9wgATbOK__yky7-Luvnm-HTBnkLogpNXBxuXVOe09iDL9PFgidgJX3IR8PFwexvHLb068SURGjsFzC-WO_HdjOUXSfvneLkznN4UPiobo7fIeC7NHMkxoXExXR8Hpe4GCV/s320/The+Saturn2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Despite the storm, the Saturn continues its orbit</td></tr>
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<br />Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-11597179606966093922013-07-11T10:46:00.002-07:002013-07-11T10:50:27.149-07:00The Wheelchair<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The wheel chair caught on the gravel. I pushed harder. Her eyes bore into my back. When I reached the sidewalk at the end of the driveway, the front door slammed behind me. The wheels moved smoothly along the cement. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">In the spring, I mailed a bouquet of hand made origami flowers from Indian Creek. In the summer, I left the base of Half Dome to scream her name when she graduated UC Santa Cruz. In the fall, we kissed. Then she ignored me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">I broke my body in the winter, falling in Joshua Tree. She screamed when she heard the news. From my hospital bed, I asked her what she wanted. She said "friend." I only heard "end." I stayed with her while I learned to walk again. When I left, we kissed again, with more passion. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">For a moment, it was good. Then I wanted more. I wanted love in return. She was hesitant. It crushed me. Why was I doing this to myself? </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;">I left the house without talking to her. I walked down the sidewalk, leaning heavily on the wheelchair, trying to mask my limp. </span>
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Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-48404791228229794162013-06-22T11:54:00.001-07:002013-06-22T12:38:19.192-07:00My Saturn's Chandelier<P>The chandelier wires swung. The lights fell off months ago. I concentrated hard. My stomach growled. I was afraid to fart; I’d shit myself. I stared at the dome light wires in my Saturn station wagon. It was never a chandelier. I wondered how long I had lied to myself. In a few hours, the Ward Gulch Fire would consume my car, my problems, and me.
<P>What was I doing with my life?
<P>Four years ago, I drove my station wagon 17 hours to Colorado only to turn around a day before I was due to start an internship at Climbing magazine. What was I doing with my life? I took up residence in my twin brother’s laundry room. Matt got me a job running food at a bar and restaurant in Berkeley. I ran fast around the restaurant, dropping off pizza at the wrong tables and pouring beer down customer’s backs. After a few months, the manager sat me down. I expected a raise or a promotion.
<P>"James," he crossed his legs. "Why are you here?"
<P>I wanted to springboard myself into a corporate environment. That was what post college grads did. That’s what I told myself I was doing. I was spring boarding. Honestly, I just wanted to write and go climbing.
<p>I paused long enough for him to add. "James, you walk without a sense of purpose."
<P>I did not become a waiter. I got fired from that job and then a few more. What was I doing with my life?
<P>Eventually, I picked up work writing a blog for some Bay area climbing gyms. I liked the work. It kept me writing and it let me climb. It kept me afloat. I wrote more. Climbing, Rock and Ice, and Alpinist published a few of my stories. Through some inventive hustling (read trimming hippie lettuce in Northern California), I put new tires on my station wagon and drove to crags across the US.
<P>I anchored my life to free climbing long routes in Yosemite Valley. I met an awesome girl. I got more work. I climbed better.
<p>I obsessed this spring. Kim and I ended our 3-year relationship. I invested all my energy into a 900-foot granite buttress, freeing a new route with my friend. I thought only of climbing. Then I finished the route. I felt aimless. Rather than wait for an existential crisis to hit me, I started driving.
<P> I pointed my station wagon east. The Carbondale Mountain Fair held an annual pie-baking contest at the end of July. I had direction in my life. I would climb around Colorado and win the pie-baking contest. I left Yosemite and drove towards the sunrise.
<P> In Tonopah, I took a wrong turn. I pulled over at the Area 51 gas station where the nearby Alien Brothel served Budweiser and gave free tours. The map showed Vegas an hour south. American adventure. I drove towards the bright lights, spent the night with friends, and proceeded to Maple Canyon the next day. I hiked straight to the Pipedream Cave.
<P>I pulled the rope towards the carabiner. As the cord neared the second bolt, I slipped on the polished cobble. I fell. My belayer tried to take in rope and then tried to spot me. I fell anyway. The rope burned my right thigh and upper arm. I landed on my back, hitting a wood post on the tiered landing.
<P>I climbed the route my second try but I felt like a horse had kicked me in the back. I drove to a friend’s house in the middle of Utah and sat on his couch for a day. A pair of Mormon boys came to the porch. I politely asked told them to come back later. Then I rudely told them to come back later. I barely slept that night; the burn on my leg woke me every hour. When the weekend came, I drove to Salt Lake City and baked a few pies. I couldn’t climb but I could train for the pie-baking contest. My back started to healed a little. I started to sleep through the night. With a few pies under my belt, I headed towards Rifle, closer to the pie-baking contest.
<P>I struggled up the walls. My back still hurt. I ate dinner and tried to sleep but felt restless that night. When my eggs finished cooking on my camp stove, I puked. The diarrhea started a few hours later.
<P>Lightning struck in the Ward Gulch. The fire ignited thousands of junipers and sage. The fire ravaged Colorado. The flames spread towards Rifle Mountain Park, where I had been climbing and camping. City officials evacuated the park. Rumors circulated that there was a 99% chance of the fire burning one of America’s premier sport climbing destinations.
<P>I settled into the back of my station wagon and stared at the wires that had once held my dome light. My stomach quaked. I almost farted. The burns itched. My back hurt. I could feel the fire coming closer. Everything was burning. What was I doing with my life?
<P>I pictured flickering lights shooting through glass and dancing across the ceiling. I pictured a thousand lights at the end of the wires. I focused. I created a chandelier in my station wagon.
Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-56969882643060001232013-06-14T07:20:00.000-07:002013-06-14T09:15:36.551-07:00The Final Frontier<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I screamed at the granite
wall. The sound bounced off Yosemite’s
Fifi Buttress and drowned into the roar of Bridalveil Falls. I lowered to the belay, where Katie stood at
a small stance. I was six inches from a
free ascent. It felt like six miles. I’d cleaned the route. Pulled out old
gear. Placed bolts. Climbed on the pitches a ton. I’d trained hard. I stopped sleeping- Would the work ever pan out? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYGDq-NRf_w1b1UBLqNqvzM-YQhVVrOa0Jh-Osg7oTjNZRPSixHijLl_yEYpke6iqev0-134_24oHkVvX1SC2OuOGH-1e09RGyu7fPQ_UJUD57RJyPkv2fI2dTXY0C3G4vr5mp64xSy5Gv/s1600/Final+Frontier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYGDq-NRf_w1b1UBLqNqvzM-YQhVVrOa0Jh-Osg7oTjNZRPSixHijLl_yEYpke6iqev0-134_24oHkVvX1SC2OuOGH-1e09RGyu7fPQ_UJUD57RJyPkv2fI2dTXY0C3G4vr5mp64xSy5Gv/s320/Final+Frontier.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mikey Schaefer photo of me climbing the penultimate arch pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Dan McDevitt established The
Final Frontier, a Grade V 5.7 A3 route in 1999 with Sue McDevitt, Brittany
Griffith and Sue’s sister Penny Black.
He climbed the route again with Jim Karn, the first American to win a
World Cup in climbing and America’s best sport climber in the 80s. While they were climbing, Jim Karn told Dan
“It’ll go free.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrpiuxXtEH6mBrFfwRAal13CWgnDkcp2CUnA8gmdvMFQDIqKmZdAsur4OpNJgGKQGNvWtLINy8oftBzbSTgWSZ9pMAePU658vS0yPN618PR103PsjI-ihUxw3BwbUwQ9VBHpGEIO6GDjkg/s1600/Final-Frontier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrpiuxXtEH6mBrFfwRAal13CWgnDkcp2CUnA8gmdvMFQDIqKmZdAsur4OpNJgGKQGNvWtLINy8oftBzbSTgWSZ9pMAePU658vS0yPN618PR103PsjI-ihUxw3BwbUwQ9VBHpGEIO6GDjkg/s320/Final-Frontier.jpg" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Final Frontier on Fifi Buttress</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Last spring, Lucho Rivera
freed Dan McDevitt’s Romulan Warbird, I climbed a few times while he was
working on the first free ascent of the 5.12 route. Gabe Mange, an El Portal climber, had ropes
on the Final Frontier. Mange wanted to
repeat The Final Frontier and worked his way up the route 200 feet left of Romulan
Warbird, fixing lines as he went. One
day, instead of climbing with Lucho, I jumared 600 feet up The Final
Frontier. Dan mentioned Jim’s comment to
me. The route looked like it would go
but be a lot of work.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdB0lFms8yisFXXeB7HMBTQ5gaFg9mUwg81Q2V7trvcSUaCzd3HTcfO6urj3ugN3KCryxpY8FDd9MsgJWPwNIhq6lSxY7bK3c9gMGcAqxi9WxtF1w26wD5Tu6Zhfg41kYhDLVLehLHJrQT/s1600/Corner+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdB0lFms8yisFXXeB7HMBTQ5gaFg9mUwg81Q2V7trvcSUaCzd3HTcfO6urj3ugN3KCryxpY8FDd9MsgJWPwNIhq6lSxY7bK3c9gMGcAqxi9WxtF1w26wD5Tu6Zhfg41kYhDLVLehLHJrQT/s320/Corner+1.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nik works the 5.12+ Lower Corner Pitch. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wLczIAOYLQzv6rM1r3MHPbR_6BNMlo577mGoOCH1z6Q5TPK-4jVFBOyejyN7SyHsdbixC5dwu9CF0-KRChU7uklwvTNjOLaNoS6IjJs03CiBGJnFA46hq2Dr7Il4Wgd3A8sSw9TPUmdh/s1600/Fifi+Crux+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wLczIAOYLQzv6rM1r3MHPbR_6BNMlo577mGoOCH1z6Q5TPK-4jVFBOyejyN7SyHsdbixC5dwu9CF0-KRChU7uklwvTNjOLaNoS6IjJs03CiBGJnFA46hq2Dr7Il4Wgd3A8sSw9TPUmdh/s320/Fifi+Crux+2.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Nik finishes up the 5.13 traverse</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">“This
route was a savior and a gift for me.” Nik Berry said. In April, Nik and I started up the Dihedral
Wall on El Capitan to scope a free ascent.
After 2 pitches, I scanned my phone and realized the wall was closed for
peregrines. We bailed. Remembering the Final Frontier, Nik and I
hiked to Fifi Buttress. Gabe’s lines still hung off the 900 foot wall. We jumared the route and examined the free
line. Nik had an immense amount of
psyche from listening to Katy Perry all morning and a limited amount of time in
Yosemite. “The next day, we started to put all our
energy into this route with many hours of cleaning moss, weeds and sticks out
of cracks and edges.” said Nik in his OR Blog. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQpHGnJabXem7TpiTFDdBDAgPn4RAkQzF3jtTMXtMEvFJ9P1lnZNsFOQOcrqVY2At39abaHTBBTuZFDLcQv7TUkv7vGY-ZYUthKv0mudZDEnoMDcJwjY-H4PeVZ566SPGfTwDkpV54x5Z/s1600/mange_5886_print.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQpHGnJabXem7TpiTFDdBDAgPn4RAkQzF3jtTMXtMEvFJ9P1lnZNsFOQOcrqVY2At39abaHTBBTuZFDLcQv7TUkv7vGY-ZYUthKv0mudZDEnoMDcJwjY-H4PeVZ566SPGfTwDkpV54x5Z/s320/mange_5886_print.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gabe Mange photo of me climbing on the 5.13b Upper Corner Pitch</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFiPeVfp3C1Xn73uUnoeJMzPGOPs_701itRG2xBiF0rM5l_3M1bVT8VIdAwuxMzaMYFUDD4XZET56h70Ibl9cfPUN4DzjLQw9cAswYpbid26XGGFDWuTYUjzSeF31xQxctj5gPQAoLIirp/s1600/Fifi+Crux+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFiPeVfp3C1Xn73uUnoeJMzPGOPs_701itRG2xBiF0rM5l_3M1bVT8VIdAwuxMzaMYFUDD4XZET56h70Ibl9cfPUN4DzjLQw9cAswYpbid26XGGFDWuTYUjzSeF31xQxctj5gPQAoLIirp/s320/Fifi+Crux+3.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eric Bissel executes the cross move on the 5.13 traverse pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">One
of the first difficulties was connecting two thin crack systems. McDevitt had aided up a thin seam and then
pendulumed across the face. Through the
creative inspiration of “California Girls” across the wall, we found a few
technical smears and spanned the gap between the crack features. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_9g_9tGf7bizWzTs8_m2APOluCpP8X5vLWbnNPBUTjJk518Q58R70bD3wsMvPQo6LryQnlv6sTHNrTmpWLfyeJ5gMPoNg8Mq0O_Dq9C6PJmAwkhml667oWj0UcFipD_dLrgClssqrdEH/s1600/_1020645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_9g_9tGf7bizWzTs8_m2APOluCpP8X5vLWbnNPBUTjJk518Q58R70bD3wsMvPQo6LryQnlv6sTHNrTmpWLfyeJ5gMPoNg8Mq0O_Dq9C6PJmAwkhml667oWj0UcFipD_dLrgClssqrdEH/s320/_1020645.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mason Earle linking the crack systems on the 5.13 traverse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">“Within
a few days, James and I had figured out where the free climbing should go, how
to do the moves, and where the bolts should go. A week of bad weather came in
and we were forced to boulder and climb at Jailhouse, which is always a nice
change from Yosemite. This worked out well anyway since we needed to wait for
our bolts to be delivered.” Nik wrote.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaMwmsOmQkr1yR2dWE3GHtkJjq_LqE5I6y6zC76MnYZtRtTfWE8g1nh4_XwPcQXnlWkCH4DLbRMJb9PnsnckktCwrbh4mhkLO3-ki8X-eNvcDfrrMB_8TU64-AkcVf8MxNiSUxPOdPUUt/s1600/3625_10100344789850448_414183971_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaMwmsOmQkr1yR2dWE3GHtkJjq_LqE5I6y6zC76MnYZtRtTfWE8g1nh4_XwPcQXnlWkCH4DLbRMJb9PnsnckktCwrbh4mhkLO3-ki8X-eNvcDfrrMB_8TU64-AkcVf8MxNiSUxPOdPUUt/s320/3625_10100344789850448_414183971_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nik and I on the summit. You can see Ribbon Falls behind us. Every day, we watched a rainbow form at the base of nearby Bridalveil Falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">After
getting all the bolts in, Nik went for the redpoint, leading all the pitches.
While he rested at the belays, I tightened the bolts he had placed the day
before. Nik freed the first corner and
sent the traverse pitch. On the upper
corner, he climbed the thin crack but fell at the boulder problem near the top. He tried again but fell. The boulder problem involves tenuous smearing
on polished granite. He rested and I toproped up to the boulder problem. I grabbed a loose hold that broke off and put a serious gash in my arm. We headed down
to tend to my wound and Nik’s wounded ego.
A few days later, Nik managed to redpoint all the pitches and I toproped
behind him. Being on the summit was fun-
Nik sent! The route went free! A nagging
feeling persisted as we descended.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1oQA5d_cE_rB5f4pIsrh7dZrM1PrftsrkAyA0ghTKL5LVw0Lab8qaLJbqpY4spHulBUcGooKWj6HeJuIqpoFqD0GSsGg5dpbPE0dQ9F3wStLqxUFAAjoNvwMlYygKAcqyfHxuo1yg19a/s1600/Fifi+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1oQA5d_cE_rB5f4pIsrh7dZrM1PrftsrkAyA0ghTKL5LVw0Lab8qaLJbqpY4spHulBUcGooKWj6HeJuIqpoFqD0GSsGg5dpbPE0dQ9F3wStLqxUFAAjoNvwMlYygKAcqyfHxuo1yg19a/s320/Fifi+8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bronson on the last 5.12 pitch. I removed a few heads, a pecker and pitons from this pitch and others on the route, replacing the fixed mank with bolts where necessary. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">It
was rad watching Nik send the route.
He’s an exceptional climber and hard to keep up with. ““After sending the final pitch, all the work
and energy put into this route gave me an incredible feeling of
accomplishment.” Nik said in his OR
Blog. I knew what he meant but felt as
though I was unfinished. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Ge8nDi6t1AhTuZcqCMUZe2qEKsjtPaj-GSvozFEEc3COZf1VtD0Q2NekrnHAEXyufO-hyAF2s4XalRquBoT9zUtGbRjH4HKixZ1rpRp2U7fRAKhM1aIG61oluSCu97uuYJtv5zXTBcq0/s1600/fififree2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.222222328186035px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Ge8nDi6t1AhTuZcqCMUZe2qEKsjtPaj-GSvozFEEc3COZf1VtD0Q2NekrnHAEXyufO-hyAF2s4XalRquBoT9zUtGbRjH4HKixZ1rpRp2U7fRAKhM1aIG61oluSCu97uuYJtv5zXTBcq0/s320/fififree2.jpeg" width="246" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A topo of the route.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-HF2rVEWuIbuCW5f_8XwNwsll0DquKlUIrhEhWCmkG2vBniQ8jwyR8msfkXpOC11aohEU2pPSYtWQO-ieI_S8DPkheYrxLSvmBijS7kfx6Q0Nl5IKAnak4aVTb9deW9zb_eviytMsRpsV/s1600/Mason6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-HF2rVEWuIbuCW5f_8XwNwsll0DquKlUIrhEhWCmkG2vBniQ8jwyR8msfkXpOC11aohEU2pPSYtWQO-ieI_S8DPkheYrxLSvmBijS7kfx6Q0Nl5IKAnak4aVTb9deW9zb_eviytMsRpsV/s320/Mason6.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Mason Earle climbs through a sea of knobs on the penultimate pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">I returned to the route. I took down all of Gabe’s fixed lines and
placed my own. I pulled all t<o:p></o:p></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9pt; text-align: center;">he heads
and bad pins out. I added bolts where
there had been bad fixed gear. I managed
to send all the moves, then to send all the pitches. I climbed the route one day with Walker
Emerson but I fell on the upper corner pitch. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOroeGDdzEs7mmF_NjD2lixUyGUHjxSAhtzdiVrCL3gfE3DNPuOJXTbWetRgwaFezaMBkmoTim6rYbQORdvh1xGh419PtGWrN4XG3eJAuMqGEEoXdqsf_5qk598RFX1AoFgc2tPXNOiDHM/s1600/947197_10100770466450918_1271147860_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOroeGDdzEs7mmF_NjD2lixUyGUHjxSAhtzdiVrCL3gfE3DNPuOJXTbWetRgwaFezaMBkmoTim6rYbQORdvh1xGh419PtGWrN4XG3eJAuMqGEEoXdqsf_5qk598RFX1AoFgc2tPXNOiDHM/s320/947197_10100770466450918_1271147860_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When I got to my car, I found this ticket on my dash courtesy of Officer Smith</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9pt; text-align: center;"> I worked the upper corner pitch again with Aaron Smith. I drove to Tuolumne to sleep at 9000 feet, hoping that the increased
altitude would boost my red blood cell count and make the climbing easier.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyYsXJJC_yuH-wc1OxtfvzGFI3x5umCNiHGqTLP97XTppojBtnEe89z2A0NTaZldysd1d0RoxvVWI5AtuhH11JTSODsXMDaYxYKq4yVH3QsYrdZ2tiPiEz9fJGcVh0gtvYvV7jZzUkrK6P/s1600/Upper+Corner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyYsXJJC_yuH-wc1OxtfvzGFI3x5umCNiHGqTLP97XTppojBtnEe89z2A0NTaZldysd1d0RoxvVWI5AtuhH11JTSODsXMDaYxYKq4yVH3QsYrdZ2tiPiEz9fJGcVh0gtvYvV7jZzUkrK6P/s320/Upper+Corner.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicate smears and a difficult boulder problem cap the pumpy corner. This proved to be the crux of the route. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">“You
just have to let yourself do it,” Katie said as I rested at the belay below the
corner. After a long bit of pouting,
wondering if The Final Frontier would be another mega project left undone, I
started climbing back up the finger tips corner. I reached the boulder problem and casually
grabbed the crimp and threw to the jug hold. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7-4863l1n7AysCcB2xDTG7pA__5EiZCyOJTkUlJ4tfpy_L1RhguFEZjvdqM6I84Wicj4vJ7xx-Nsy0ETybsEfSFr4VRWmgXr0itXOLQPtIIUOgcXp4b6uvI_kNxu3re_dfXZzg9btDlx/s1600/Mason4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7-4863l1n7AysCcB2xDTG7pA__5EiZCyOJTkUlJ4tfpy_L1RhguFEZjvdqM6I84Wicj4vJ7xx-Nsy0ETybsEfSFr4VRWmgXr0itXOLQPtIIUOgcXp4b6uvI_kNxu3re_dfXZzg9btDlx/s320/Mason4.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mason flashing the crux pitch. Mason made the 3rd ascent of the route. Tobias Wolf made the 4th. Katie Lambert and Ben Ditto returned to try the route and Will Stanhope and Brad Gobright climbed on it as well. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">The
next pitch, which I had well rehearsed, went smoothily. On the second to last arch pitch, I
floundered a bit trying to get off the belay.
The moves felt hard. I felt
tired. After a fall, I returned to the
belay and then climbed to the top of the pitch. Katie followed solidly,
climbing the entire route with no falls. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBlHj8Bwv_XQUNuZX5q8bDD7B0bR2gZ-NE0J_w3bLk6EyHRAB9EPjVx4n1IJoTlr6Sdjb5LGj2seQYZYKe7wsSYEpYMDjRumJ1hLzfrN07ilV6Ur_mF46kitGaJIsKuhNBQBfaasCHpSeN/s1600/mange_6355_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBlHj8Bwv_XQUNuZX5q8bDD7B0bR2gZ-NE0J_w3bLk6EyHRAB9EPjVx4n1IJoTlr6Sdjb5LGj2seQYZYKe7wsSYEpYMDjRumJ1hLzfrN07ilV6Ur_mF46kitGaJIsKuhNBQBfaasCHpSeN/s320/mange_6355_web.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gabe Mange picture of climbing sporty moves on the Upper Corner pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">At
the summit, I was psyched. I beamed as
Katie climbed the top. I sent every
pitch leading the entire route in a day. It was the hardest climb I’d ever
done. I’d had an amazing experience
establishing the route with Nik and then climbing on it with other friends. It was really fun. I felt very proud of myself for investing so
much into the route and I felt great about the successful ascent. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfoSR0GtgKZV012gMCKUeWvMb_LHNSiVXy-bjWeNRrqK1i2xK_6jEC5bDpW-XRZTDN924KCkC6IEQ4SHVV8ZGJ_hTZC0Z6I_Y-qlCWzU6n8ji2dfq7aIdQ6YaEv4iK1euB7xzeoOoqrjS/s1600/Final+Frontier2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfoSR0GtgKZV012gMCKUeWvMb_LHNSiVXy-bjWeNRrqK1i2xK_6jEC5bDpW-XRZTDN924KCkC6IEQ4SHVV8ZGJ_hTZC0Z6I_Y-qlCWzU6n8ji2dfq7aIdQ6YaEv4iK1euB7xzeoOoqrjS/s320/Final+Frontier2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mikey Schaefer photo of me on the Penultimate Arch Pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.0pt;">That
night, I slept well.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-38298000668005666752013-05-21T09:56:00.001-07:002013-05-21T10:02:41.396-07:00My First Yosemite Trip<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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A loud crack exploded from the back of the bus. An overweight
Mexican jumped out the broken bus window and sprinted alongside the road. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_-0eHhyf8X4SN8Dfpum-ooLnEf9VOKFzX6lVF3fVYATnBJmlIyVvqWBC7oDJT0Fdp6RTSKrdMrHeVcbbUPYztnAwYOFeB0XAd3V6pIzlnXjw8QtY_Eu0M77B2AFwr36neHlKMQjmDXkG/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_-0eHhyf8X4SN8Dfpum-ooLnEf9VOKFzX6lVF3fVYATnBJmlIyVvqWBC7oDJT0Fdp6RTSKrdMrHeVcbbUPYztnAwYOFeB0XAd3V6pIzlnXjw8QtY_Eu0M77B2AFwr36neHlKMQjmDXkG/s400/images.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Hipster Handbook describes anyone out of luck as "Riding Greyhound"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In June of 2001, after driving across the US from my
father’s home in upstate New York, my sister dropped me off at the Phoenix
Greyhound Station. While still in
Arizona, the bus stopped for immigration officers to check our papers. A tall
crosseyed man with two plastic shopping bags ran to the bathroom door when the
officer came on board. A few minutes
later I heard the crack. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTsQ44dnWtnRjub5wdveY96aTsflSzQB4hZCly6_Ev7Wc-dkDS9GJq3B8v2oYdV5DbJPJSWNYHH9q9SGICOnnYpCk9FNR2qaxtF4p2vw99CFUJeBSTTMeT-RDuE_6rCuTMWcq90RWAqPf/s1600/The+local+police+get+called+out+to+a+scene+down+the+road+from+Orlando+Bloom's+home+where+a+naked+man,+apparently+on+some+type+of+substance.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTsQ44dnWtnRjub5wdveY96aTsflSzQB4hZCly6_Ev7Wc-dkDS9GJq3B8v2oYdV5DbJPJSWNYHH9q9SGICOnnYpCk9FNR2qaxtF4p2vw99CFUJeBSTTMeT-RDuE_6rCuTMWcq90RWAqPf/s400/The+local+police+get+called+out+to+a+scene+down+the+road+from+Orlando+Bloom's+home+where+a+naked+man,+apparently+on+some+type+of+substance.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is pretty much what happened</td></tr>
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The officer tackled him after 50 yards and the bus drove to
Merced with a broken window and the bathroom door locked from the inside. It
was nice to know that I wasn’t the only trying to escape. <o:p></o:p></div>
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From Merced, I hopped on the Yosemite shuttle. In the white
Valley bus, I tossed two duffle bags. One bag contained an alarm clock, a pair
of shorts, and my eyeglasses. My newer
duffle held my climbing equipment for my trip- an unused rope, brand new cams,
and 300 feet of webbing which I thought would be enough to set up a toprope on
El Capitan. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQVlEpMl10eL5w9y6YiFnorjKl8RXEzC3hVdWxxCOQw171VCw5fV2qm2XCSfOsrQbHJ6gXQQoJnvga7bNEtioQcrgbHQGeyiUXRJIwBbaWo3WZjnLGsGYHm9UX_vvwevvADYLAexjEO1kn/s1600/images-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQVlEpMl10eL5w9y6YiFnorjKl8RXEzC3hVdWxxCOQw171VCw5fV2qm2XCSfOsrQbHJ6gXQQoJnvga7bNEtioQcrgbHQGeyiUXRJIwBbaWo3WZjnLGsGYHm9UX_vvwevvADYLAexjEO1kn/s400/images-1.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Capitan was about 10 times larger than I expected. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Pulling into the
Valley floor, the enormous granite walls and towering formations dwarfed the
Adirondacks and Green Mountains of my youth.
El Capitan was much larger than I had expected. A few days later, I started work, making beds
at the Yosemite Lodge. I spent my
paychecks on more toproping webbing. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<!--EndFragment-->Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-58809479737174717822013-04-26T09:59:00.002-07:002013-04-29T13:13:45.476-07:00Yosemite Bolt Wars<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">White powder flew from the granite. I brushed more, cleaning the rock. Soon, a third of the drawing disappeared. I stepped back and stared at the remaining chalk. A few minutes later, Midnight Lightning’s bolt vanished.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">In 1978, Ron Kauk jumped to a jagged edge on the Columbia Boulder, in the middle of Camp 4. He matched, swung his feet through and threw his body into a committing mantel, high above a slab. When Kauk pressed out the granite, he made the first ascent of Midnight Lightning. Fellow Yosemite climber and Kauk’s contemporary, John Bachar made the second ascent. The two had been vying for the coveted ascent of the line.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUIe3KVWg62lf5pevO4bWV7tzrZaFYkrEimy8vgXezqnF-P_CeakEqrxXeRKlkU3Kg2uwXJvMa3nyJzG2tNntm7g2Nv4V_IHkOstqbOD3isvfKZiSs3lINo5JFodasadrxMlAd65El1QFk/s1600/bachar-midnight-lightning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 12.222222328186035px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUIe3KVWg62lf5pevO4bWV7tzrZaFYkrEimy8vgXezqnF-P_CeakEqrxXeRKlkU3Kg2uwXJvMa3nyJzG2tNntm7g2Nv4V_IHkOstqbOD3isvfKZiSs3lINo5JFodasadrxMlAd65El1QFk/s400/bachar-midnight-lightning.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">John Bachar climbing Midnight Lightning- the bolt lacks the bursts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">“I drew the original bolt on Midnight Lightning....,” said John Bachar. “It was Yabo who actually "found" Midnight Lightning. He was sitting in front of it one day and came over to me and Ron Kauk and said he found a new boulder problem. He said it would go...we laughed and said it was impossible</span><span style="font-size: 10pt;">….</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">we thought there was about as much chance of doing it as there was the chance that a lightning bolt could strike at midnight (like in the Hendrix song 'Midnight Lightning") - so I drew a bolt on it in chalk....That's it - pretty stupid huh?”</span><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">When a hold broke, Bachar made the third ascent. Sometime later, Kauk reinforced the lightning bolt hold in the middle of the problem. The problem saw its first female ascent by Lynn Hill. At one point Scot Cosgrove climbed the problem twelve times in a row. Skip Guerin climbed the problem barefoot and prior to Lynn’s ascent, the problem was down-climbed. Dave Schultz climbed the problem at midnight. Yabo made the tenth ascent.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">Boulders regularly climb the problem and every climber in Camp 4 paws the first few holds. giving the starting holds classic Yosemite boot polish. Through it all, the chalk outline remains despite “lightning striking at midnight” on hundreds of occasions. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisFsIIRaWNlxHUUFuHjfIV1xwpPV0oBfGGeOXDaig_N4nVH-vvb1he5l7vkNB4VHJMn0iW6eQjAPhUor6Xzl_ghzKDL6N3im2SDHBnGdRct_uYwmJkbEIq0o_IYcVP4p3BgXMXnm9Pd94O/s1600/eph01386b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisFsIIRaWNlxHUUFuHjfIV1xwpPV0oBfGGeOXDaig_N4nVH-vvb1he5l7vkNB4VHJMn0iW6eQjAPhUor6Xzl_ghzKDL6N3im2SDHBnGdRct_uYwmJkbEIq0o_IYcVP4p3BgXMXnm9Pd94O/s400/eph01386b.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">The bolt stays even in the deepest snow storms.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">Erasing the bolt took two different trips. The first night, I removed the majority of the chalk. To help rinse my brush, I stole a water bottle from a climber bivied underneath the problem. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">“Erasing the bolt?” he asked from his sleeping bag. I nodded.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">“Cool,” he responded and went back to sleep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpYDsUyrL8J9dYyuGzFgCNICqgLSzFv9qqXhJ0RQ8r9x0A6cVB0vGnCgWxL-HnTRyEU73hDUKAEA2K3OBajsvTBsgijBoveOHVbelSMzjzZpuAh6Pi-OOOKzTCp-0vscLE-TKzvcqFLsF/s1600/photo+(29).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpYDsUyrL8J9dYyuGzFgCNICqgLSzFv9qqXhJ0RQ8r9x0A6cVB0vGnCgWxL-HnTRyEU73hDUKAEA2K3OBajsvTBsgijBoveOHVbelSMzjzZpuAh6Pi-OOOKzTCp-0vscLE-TKzvcqFLsF/s400/photo+(29).JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">The Lightning Bolt before it was erased</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">The morning after first brushing the hold, a smear of chalk marred Columbia. Thirty years of the lightning bolt outlined proved difficult to remove. The next evening I returned with a finer brush and a little spray bottle of water. I spent another few hours cleaning the formation. The next morning, Columbia boulder resembled every other rock in Yosemite. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYwu-GXHk-gdFZ3-bnR0jSiaZN73VYrxc7Lvk7oRXa7ySDOy-TEzsliBMg23JXnkrqvMmElpJBdRrBNktaYPidVo8IyaFELNbLxVp1F4ytnCKMjFgORZKpe-hgF9yQshCsYgvzbadsxSQ/s1600/photo+(30).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYwu-GXHk-gdFZ3-bnR0jSiaZN73VYrxc7Lvk7oRXa7ySDOy-TEzsliBMg23JXnkrqvMmElpJBdRrBNktaYPidVo8IyaFELNbLxVp1F4ytnCKMjFgORZKpe-hgF9yQshCsYgvzbadsxSQ/s320/photo+(30).JPG" width="235" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2_vJuihHVWfw5xoFyIiWqcdy1BNdIWICIkskEE9KrABApRfvhM0IAnfg7YdNoJ0uphyphenhyphensz6iegMwSqe0HRCbQ6b-lfY3iO53B1H3SmOSpYfA59ZCwq4RK4WSbQn5Ywv_veyAb6Vrjzoye/s1600/photo+(31).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2_vJuihHVWfw5xoFyIiWqcdy1BNdIWICIkskEE9KrABApRfvhM0IAnfg7YdNoJ0uphyphenhyphensz6iegMwSqe0HRCbQ6b-lfY3iO53B1H3SmOSpYfA59ZCwq4RK4WSbQn5Ywv_veyAb6Vrjzoye/s320/photo+(31).JPG" width="236" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">The empty space lasted a week and half before someone redrew the lightning bolt. I don’t know who put it back. It wasn’t me. It wasn’t Ron Kauk. It wasn’t John Bachar coming from his grave.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQHTn1yyUOv3BoBBGTpxsbQIKwwxIhwQf_cWpK2SkZBAgEtWJ_SacaqHuWfpJ3OYUyVW1CHX_l813CfHy2NEDMjGseMia_Vb7UCHYKi984D4Kl1Y8lcPBFJQOL7gCfIlwasM0SlAwBvXA0/s1600/photo+(32).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQHTn1yyUOv3BoBBGTpxsbQIKwwxIhwQf_cWpK2SkZBAgEtWJ_SacaqHuWfpJ3OYUyVW1CHX_l813CfHy2NEDMjGseMia_Vb7UCHYKi984D4Kl1Y8lcPBFJQOL7gCfIlwasM0SlAwBvXA0/s320/photo+(32).JPG" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Nik Berry on an unknown problem in Camp 4</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">“It was probably some Euro,” said Dean Fidelman, one of the original Stonemasters and one of the few who still hangs in Yosemite. “They want the picture.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">Over thirty years, with every passing ascent, the lightning bolt became less of a testament to a remarkable ascent, of lightning striking at midnight. The chalk transformed into a trademark, another tourist attraction for passing climbers. The magic left the bolt years ago. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;">The new bolt remains slightly duller than the last incarnation. How long will it remain that way? Does climbing need these trademarks? </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 9pt;"><br /></span></div>
Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com58tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-27346361435904799052013-03-25T11:48:00.000-07:002013-03-25T19:18:27.869-07:00Hueco Unrestricted<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>The Texas
sky</b> is brightest two days before the full moon. It’s possible to walk without a head lamp, to
see hundreds of boulders in the dark, and to climb on any of the thousands of
problems. Easy access. Ideal temps. A
nearly perfect situation. This winter, I stared at the boulders, wanting
to venture into the night, wondering what Hueco would be like unrestricted. <o:p></o:p>
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGmfu_9t-swlRvgB-nQxCQHzkGz-jT7RZuIdOy8AxTBzeAIoxqafLf6B1-0RqDpuEOp47wqEohyphenhyphenPtVS38yn5GS0wsUoRLnjPdwqVChRAtjthn1l4L7u0iTNoemjgCp6FwSaTv4ayGgeNlW/s1600/photo.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGmfu_9t-swlRvgB-nQxCQHzkGz-jT7RZuIdOy8AxTBzeAIoxqafLf6B1-0RqDpuEOp47wqEohyphenhyphenPtVS38yn5GS0wsUoRLnjPdwqVChRAtjthn1l4L7u0iTNoemjgCp6FwSaTv4ayGgeNlW/s320/photo.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">On my second trip to Hueco, I tore my MCL falling on this classic John Sherman boulder problem. On our last climbing day in Hueco, I finally sent See Spot Run, an amazing V6.</td></tr>
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Located 32 miles northeast of El Paso, Texas, Hueco Tanks
hosts thousands of high caliber boulder problems in a condensed area. Low,
steep terrain allows many of the cruxes to be worked easily; a top down
approach to the boulders can be used versus a ground up style. The large smooth holds keep skin intact so
failure becomes an issue of muscle failure.
These factors amount to an easily accessible way to become strong
quickly. Hueco Tanks is a bouldering
mecca.<o:p></o:p></div>
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For
twenty years, from the late seventies to late nineties, climbers roamed free
about Hueco Tanks State Park (HTSP).
Below John Sherman’s <i>See Spot Run</i>,
I spoke with Rick Olivier, a climber who has spent the last twenty four winters
climbing in Hueco. “Before the 98 new
user plan there was a 300 car limit,” said Rick. “You could bring your dog,
play your boom box. Go wherever you wanted.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drew Schick works through Whisper of Mortality</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From 1989 to 1992, Hueco experienced a Golden Age. The staff happily permitted cars into the
park. The three svenite mountains, which
are separated into four distinct climbing locations: North, East and West Mountains
and the East Spur, saw an influx of climbers.
They bolted new routes, the park stayed open until ten pm and the
world’s best descended upon the small Texas park. The steep and powerful climbing provided a
huge attraction for any climber wanting to get stronger. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/efiHdrlxHNI" width="560"></iframe></center>
Brian Hedrick dispatches Alma Blanca- v13</div>
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In the height of it all came the Tortilla Syndrome. James Crump,
who in 1985 co-authored the first guidebook to Hueco Tanks <i>Indian Height, </i>described the term in Jeff Jackson’s 2000 Climbing
article “<i>Then and Now</i>.” “In the mid 80s the professional climbers
discovered Hueco and they had to eat. Had to have their big-number, new-5.13
cover shot.” Crump blaimed Todd
Skinner and his “cronies” for illegally bolting in Hueco, over developing the
area and creating anomisity between the park staff and climbers.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“We were putting up
routes as outsiders and that was tweaking the locals. The locals were talking
to the rangers so the rangers started tweaking too. The locals made it clear
that we weren’t on their team,” said Skinner in the Jackson article. “And, of
course, we were bolting.” Skinner said in the Jackson article. “The official
position was that bolting was illegal.
The bolts themselves were legal. So, if some unknown person got the
bolts into the rock at night, then you could legally climb the route the next
morning.” Skinner and company devised a
system with lights to warn each other of approaching rangers. They got caught though. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Skinner claimed the bickering between climbers had little to
do with the park restrictions. “Alex
Mares (the former head ranger) wants the place as a church. He’s got that holy-war
look in his eyes. And the rock-art people want it as a museum.” <o:p></o:p><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMznWOUsKJiH_cI_ROUHJSeNsQLc6qdBDDQlbTka8dyO61JzvDUuhC-g3GXQGZgPBjIMnI_mm2KDDgf5ifvSO70jR104YyOcXwesMQ9WJQq6vfdVbC6CWhwO8Blt0iEEPAblxrViIv__k4/s1600/photo+(20).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMznWOUsKJiH_cI_ROUHJSeNsQLc6qdBDDQlbTka8dyO61JzvDUuhC-g3GXQGZgPBjIMnI_mm2KDDgf5ifvSO70jR104YyOcXwesMQ9WJQq6vfdVbC6CWhwO8Blt0iEEPAblxrViIv__k4/s320/photo+(20).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter Michaux on the classic and difficult Double Vision V7 on North Mountain</td></tr>
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The number of park visitors peaked in the early 1990s.
“There were 150,000 people a year,” said current park Superindentent Wanda
Olszewski, “which was definitely unsustainable.” The impact on the park’s vegetation, the
thousands of trails popping up, were more obvious than the bolts that climbers
were taking a toll on Hueco. <o:p></o:p></div>
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In 1998, The Texas State Park and Wildlife Department
increased restrictions. TSPWD created
seventy spots on North Mountain (initially there were fifty spots), allowing
sixty spots to be reserved up to ninety days in advance. The remaining ten spots are left for walk-ins
on a first-come, first-serve basis with Hueco Tanks campground members given
preference. In the areas of East
Mountain, West Mountain, and the East Spur, an additional 160 people are
allowed to climb but they need to be accompanied by a guide. Guide services fluctuate between $2 and $25
depending on the nature of the tour.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kyle O'Meara works on Loaded with Power</td></tr>
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When the restrictions fell, many of the old vanguard
left. Long time locals like Todd
Skinner, Scott Milton, John Sherman, Matt Samet and escaped the new rules. <span style="color: #333333;">“For me, given how free Hueco once was, how you could
just wander around in the park on rest days hanging out, exploring caves,
looking for pictographs, not having to go to Barnes and Noble in El Paso to
kill time, it was awesome back then,” said Matt Samet, who climbed there for a
few seasons prior to the 98 restrictions and then again post restrictions. “In
1999 and 2000, the experience was so different from what it had been that I
realized I was done with Hueco.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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There was little love for the new regulations. “We certainly can’t call the new Site
management plan progress, as it stifles the freedom of exploration, but one
good thing came out of it: People took what they learned about bouldering
possibilities at Hueco Tanks and they explored other areas, and new bouldering
spots were developed.,” said long time Hueco climber Scott Milton. “That, at least, is progress.” <o:p></o:p></div>
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<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='500' height='415' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz-wHvtIdsCJcL3dXqEOev1w3ps7GWjI33aY85ipcu6yvKp5q_X0WKLXeVNPzl9ssY1cvCTDV91rnoNk0xV2g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
Dean's Trip, a classic and hard V5</center>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="color: #333333;">The number of climbers visiting
the park dropped significantly. According to the Jackson article, in 1986 there
were 85,000 climbers. In 2000, a few
years after the regulations, there were 17,000. “</span>Climbers are a free
spirit group,” said Ricky Olivier. “I would say most climbers don’t want to
simply deal with the bureaucracy to come in and out of the park. It’s not free
to go where you want as it is in other climbing areas.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZCSycwq7ZLbywwc1-VNAUhKyigD9yeD0vD0kKqsVmlURimhMpKOibUSf5K04V1KVi_JgNYxAEEA30ZeEkwnrBRb5qvgVLnXVAqoyR0jCnQixKqb1oZxL4T6Mh4YKtLZOVMIS-Hfpxf5SG/s1600/539781_502559849782840_379945903_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZCSycwq7ZLbywwc1-VNAUhKyigD9yeD0vD0kKqsVmlURimhMpKOibUSf5K04V1KVi_JgNYxAEEA30ZeEkwnrBRb5qvgVLnXVAqoyR0jCnQixKqb1oZxL4T6Mh4YKtLZOVMIS-Hfpxf5SG/s320/539781_502559849782840_379945903_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kim Groebner sending the classic Baby Martini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #333333;">The restrictions affected the</span>
local El Paso folks. Jumping through the
hoops to get into the park became a huge detriment to the families that wanted
to picnic for the day or walk around
their local state park. The number of
local visitors decreased significantly.
The focus of the park changed. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Park management wanted visitors to see the history of the
park. The park flexed its desire to show
the amazing pictographs. “When climbers
get interested in the pictographs, they start to see the park in a whole new
way,” said Superindentent Olszewski. “They realize that if all they’ve done
here is climb, it’s like going to Disney world and riding one ride and going
home. You’re not getting the whole picture.” <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kim Groebner hikes the chains</td></tr>
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<div style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Two years
ago, Mary Bocchicchio became the second rock art/climbing guide, and the only
current one. The rock art changed her view of the park. “Now when I spend time
in the park – I constantly think of those who came through hunting Mammoths or
growing beans in the fields.” She
reiterated the park’s view on management. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">“Hueco
Tanks is a HISTORIC site, first and formost. The #1 priority of the park and
its staff is to protect the artifacts and pictographs that were left there by
Native Americans from 150 to over 10,000 years ago.””</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Jornada mogollion were a Native American group that traveled the American Southwest from AD 150 to AD 1400 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Signs and posts driven into the rock, mark the few areas to
protect the ancient history. In some of
the closed areas, a protective crust covers the ground keeping the archaeology
intact. The ground in areas like the
Mushroom Boulder, which received enormous amounts of foot traffic and crash pad
shuffling, eroded away and exposed midden soil, areas rich in Indian artificats
and debris. In other areas like the famous 45 Degree Wall, ancient petroglyphs
cover the rock. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCwHrJ0xIm5H-6-6xfqra05kkjx9WCVdPRLlO0Rk6fDHaQS1tlA47Afbc7XvMu7zcXqP2coswDUHukqqKuDMb7TzZlIQWX6GV8K6X_WJC5Kmn7D_mTN6vZkSCGtMkIbphoMAIO6hL1Rf0/s1600/photo+(22).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCwHrJ0xIm5H-6-6xfqra05kkjx9WCVdPRLlO0Rk6fDHaQS1tlA47Afbc7XvMu7zcXqP2coswDUHukqqKuDMb7TzZlIQWX6GV8K6X_WJC5Kmn7D_mTN6vZkSCGtMkIbphoMAIO6hL1Rf0/s320/photo+(22).JPG" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Sign nailed into the rock above a boulder problem on North Mountain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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“Human beings get attracted to the same sort of places over
the course of time,” noted Oliewski. “Those exact same overhangs that are
attractive for climbing because of the angle are the ones that people hung out
underneath years and years ago prehistorically.” In the Jackson article, Bill Dolman, who
worked as part of the management team overseeing the TPWD restrictions implementation,
reported on an archaeological study in late ninties “We found that because of
the extent of (earlier) human occupation almost no part of the park did not
have significant sub-surface archaeological resources.”<o:p></o:p><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpx8u5Pby86dN0XOFXPqLiKjDlX4ks1SF3v0xbJ0kuf5ymu4xxahtwc9q0DEwCwV_mWuLi3KCki1XyLS8wGMQj6GvXtwihYkR5lUkWwbToULmYPwBfvKbo6FUCt-mdMBwABkH5mTI4c_0/s1600/photo+(21).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpx8u5Pby86dN0XOFXPqLiKjDlX4ks1SF3v0xbJ0kuf5ymu4xxahtwc9q0DEwCwV_mWuLi3KCki1XyLS8wGMQj6GvXtwihYkR5lUkWwbToULmYPwBfvKbo6FUCt-mdMBwABkH5mTI4c_0/s320/photo+(21).JPG" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Honnold came out and hiked my project. After seven weeks, I made it to the second hold. The next day we went climbing, he hiked Fern Roof. After a couple hours, I sent the problem too. "How hard do you think that is Alex?" I asked about the suspiciously soft V10. "Well, when I first did it, I called it V8. Today, I thought it was more like V7," he responded. "but then after seeing you do it, I'd say it was more like V6."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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Dollman also spoke about the TPWD official position. “Well
the long and short of it is that we’ve come to the conclusion that the climbing
needs to be managed to the extent that we can protect the archaeological and
rock art resources.” Oliewski’s management of the park continues with the same
idea of preservation first and climbing second, to treat Hueco as an “outdoor
museum,” a stance that finds little favor with climbers. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Devil pictograph</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ann Raber, a first year guide who has spent the winters
climbing in Hueco since 2009, voiced
many climber’s concerns about the management program. “<span style="color: #333333;">The
park management pays a lot of lip service to climber's rights as a user group,
but I can't shake the sense that there are people with a lot of say in the
matter who want this place to be a museum, to be observed without touching.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="background: white; line-height: 12.75pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 7.5pt;">
<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Jason Kehl, voiced a similar idea. Kehl arrived in Hueco in 1995 and 1996,
before the restrictions. After the1998
changes, he stopped climbing in the park.
Kehl, now in his third year of guiding, returned a few years later when
he heard the restrictions still allowed for climbing. </span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> “I think the restrictions are bad for
climbing, but good for Hueco Tanks. This is a special place besides the
climbing and we must protect it.” <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1akDb35t5FDrd834xWZ31mKp3tiGD1ThVMViLef66AwBB21IzGk-QITFdSEZhWo6o2q1wrXmhApOr-fFWGjEdABrwfmUef-Gj2kvuIvog8jp6DVCYWMRzV0ZMH7vuVQWnqXMTtx4RGbH/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1akDb35t5FDrd834xWZ31mKp3tiGD1ThVMViLef66AwBB21IzGk-QITFdSEZhWo6o2q1wrXmhApOr-fFWGjEdABrwfmUef-Gj2kvuIvog8jp6DVCYWMRzV0ZMH7vuVQWnqXMTtx4RGbH/s320/photo.JPG" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jason Kehl found this boulder problem a few years ago. Bloodlines sits in a corridor near the summit of North Mountain. Kehl has spear headed much of the new development in Hueco.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="background: white; line-height: 12.75pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 7.5pt;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">John
Sherman “There had always been limitations on visitation and something had to
be done,” Sherman said in the Jackson article. “For example, the base of the <i>Three Star Arete</i> used to be dirt; now
it’s rocky. The desert root systems at Hueco are really shallow. Tromp too many
people over them and they’ll die.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The restrictions, the decrease in climbers, helped much
vegetation to regrow, for the thousand trails to become single destignated
paths and the park to return to its natural state, certainly in the back
country. In unregulated bouldering areas
like Bishop, California, climbers step in gum at the crag, dogs fight below
popular areas, and overcongestion can be a huge problem. These problems don’t exist in Hueco because
of the restrictions. These are the good
parts about the restrictions. There are
also bad aspects.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAzKnjtJUshyBbIiviycTLC1dH5_lkWdc6d4-7ESTXQk_tJtWDhGgouZ6li_F-AnTjkTbhDQI3-plXaDGL51ywVME2nMaih71kMqYZTnfnFUjY3LPJTotU_6CzRdxe2r_K6IMjMqsZbALA/s1600/photo+(24).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAzKnjtJUshyBbIiviycTLC1dH5_lkWdc6d4-7ESTXQk_tJtWDhGgouZ6li_F-AnTjkTbhDQI3-plXaDGL51ywVME2nMaih71kMqYZTnfnFUjY3LPJTotU_6CzRdxe2r_K6IMjMqsZbALA/s320/photo+(24).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kim Groebner gets Nobody's Funky on East Mountain</td></tr>
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The largest problem revolves around the park’s open and
closing times and the back country guide program. Temperatures and day light hours change
dramatically over the course of the year but the 8 am to 6 pm park hours remain
stagnant. Moses Potter, a first year guide and six year Hueco climber, added
some of the problems with the guiding. “Were I to taste the climbing of Hueco
for the first time under the current restrictions I would think the experience
sucks, frankly. It can be very difficult to get in the park during peak season
and during weekends, it costs $20 per day to climb off of North Mountain, which
is prohibitively expensive for the shoestring-budgeted twenty-something, and
you have to be able to negotiate the bureaucratic process in the front office.
Having to leave the boulders by 5:30pm, so you can be clear of the locked gate
by 6pm, is an added distraction from the experience. In short, the place lacks
the kind of freedom that most of us climbers associate with the lifestyle of
the climber.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwmnsuGxx-PRyZq6ZXO0rEdGvbOK3ALhhjPbFbMT-3qUpbQWiuzKWYIIkDLRLE7WX-sMImeTXZcfQg_om3uE4q2IkKJ4TPgCNJ15ylgGpk8PlL9O9sJfco-SHpBUZFthIi_aOK93nRt11y/s1600/photo+(23).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwmnsuGxx-PRyZq6ZXO0rEdGvbOK3ALhhjPbFbMT-3qUpbQWiuzKWYIIkDLRLE7WX-sMImeTXZcfQg_om3uE4q2IkKJ4TPgCNJ15ylgGpk8PlL9O9sJfco-SHpBUZFthIi_aOK93nRt11y/s320/photo+(23).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moses Potter catches the sunset after working My Life in a Tank</td></tr>
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Further, development in Hueco has been stifled to a great
degree. The necessity of going with a
guide “stifles the freedom of exploration.” “Newness and progression are important for
any athletic pursuit,” said Potter, “and the stifling of that in Hueco is 100%
due to the restrictions, not a dearth of quality rock or the strength of the
climbers present.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />
On my last day in Hueco, Nik Berry and I climbed the Melon Patch Extension- The two pitch route, Sea of Holes was established in the early Hueco days. Mike Head and others used to regularly free solo this 5.10 route. We climbed it on a cold morning. Our finger froze grabbing the rock. Hueco's beginnings were on routes like this. Now, seeing a roped climber is a rare sight.<br />
<br /></div>
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At times, the park seems over enthusiastic about the
regulations. This year at our Hueco Tanks State Park camp site, we received a
notification threatening a fine if we parked off the pavement at our
campsite. While at the front desk, a
group of rock art hunters came in for the 10:30 rock art tour. They had driven past the entrance officer at
the gate. The front desk informed them
they needed to return to the gate and check in with the entrance officer. In fifteen minutes, they went to the gate and
returned to the office. The front desk
person then asked them what they wanted to do.
When they told her they wanted to go to the 10:30 rock art tour, the
group was informed that they had missed the tour by fifteen minutes and there
would not be another until the following week. <o:p></o:p>
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglh2NAq5tHVgrk33KSm6oDceBopZYI5hkx5q4j8a6zmKdSOf1tKDlEKwhPezvJL-KawAiJrZfW6N7MQOlsYZ51FoEgQS3n_sLHSQbcSzO0D6Fq2xHEjTtScaBzePysuZceYP55JBcYc_Zf/s1600/21760_10100691891530688_1998630367_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglh2NAq5tHVgrk33KSm6oDceBopZYI5hkx5q4j8a6zmKdSOf1tKDlEKwhPezvJL-KawAiJrZfW6N7MQOlsYZ51FoEgQS3n_sLHSQbcSzO0D6Fq2xHEjTtScaBzePysuZceYP55JBcYc_Zf/s320/21760_10100691891530688_1998630367_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the biggest draw for climbers was the Hueco Rock Rodeo. Every year, Melissa Strong and other locals organize a competition. The Rodeo attracts climbers from across the globe and brought the largest crowds that we saw during out 7 week stay in Texas.</td></tr>
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“That climbers are now arriving in search of something
different is to be expected, and that my version of paradise is lost does not
make their own less glorious,” said Todd Skinner.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Nik Berry reaches</td></tr>
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I barely need my headlamp under the bright Texas moon. I toe the edge of the campsite boundary. To step forward would be to break the rules,
to jeporadize access, to affirm TPWD’s position that the park should be an
“outdoor museum.” <span style="background: white; color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Stepping back would keep Hueco Tanks safe for
another day. Access would be secure until something happened, until
another petroglyph was discovered or more artificats were found in the midden
soil. Stepping back would mean I could climb tomorrow. Who knows
about the next day. Potter’s words about the restrictions echoed in my
head, “These climbs are a precious resource, and the history of climbing is
slowly being written out of Hueco Tanks. Once we lose Hueco, if we lose Hueco,
we will have lost the standard by which all other bouldering in the world is
compared.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">To move forward or move back? I turn off my headlamp and step.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-11730719516273525412013-02-17T07:54:00.001-08:002013-02-19T09:58:16.568-08:00Sittin Tall in the Saddle<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
photos by <a href="http://mikeylikesrocks.com/blog/">Mikey Schaefer</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I slumped in my seat and fixated on the rocks, the projects
behind us. Mikey left an enormous first
ascent on Yosemite’s Middle Cathedral unfinished. I left behind working on free climbing El
Capitan. Mikey and I met in Salt Lake City.
We drove seven hours east towards the middle of
Wyoming. We drove to sit tall in the saddle. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAt-_PSuKqYhKz7vtEvZjenKYTGEc8yZZwFn_Nxw0Ptgw9fdAT5R1AiEkQeBL-IYbVUGZhfQb9TOp-j698w1Bw1trVUt_9onFjbA50xyHQgY1YfiUnYbduehxhSOWOMnLVuzWvkCSdwJlB/s1600/index.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAt-_PSuKqYhKz7vtEvZjenKYTGEc8yZZwFn_Nxw0Ptgw9fdAT5R1AiEkQeBL-IYbVUGZhfQb9TOp-j698w1Bw1trVUt_9onFjbA50xyHQgY1YfiUnYbduehxhSOWOMnLVuzWvkCSdwJlB/s640/index.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sitting at the western base of the Big Horn Mountains, the
town of Ten Sleep promises a different sort of excitement than just the buffalo
leather moccasins sold at Dirty Sally’s general store. The Great Plains, the
grass and uneven cattle country, fills the desititute land to the east but the
Bighorn Dolomite, the 450 million year old Ordocian era limestone outside of
Ten Sleep, promised a chance to improve our crushed egos. For 21 days, we’d climb, clip bolts, and have
fun. I pushed myself further up in the passenger seat of Mikey’s van. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“We’ll climb two different 5.12s every day we climb. Let’s
aim for 20. Then we can have a couple
extra days if we fail to make the daily quota.” I scowered 8a.nu, Mountain Project,
to find the softest rated climbs at the pocketed Wyoming crags. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Ok Coach,” Mikey parked the sprinter in front of one of Ten
Sleep’s three bars. The vacation
started.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The early Wyoming trappers called the large Indian camp on
the Platter River, the Old Sioux Camp. On the Clark’s Fork River, where Bridger
Montana is today, sat another Indian camp.
When the Indians traveled between the Old Sioux camp and the Clark’s
Fork Camp they rested at a small field below the Big Horns. They measured distances in sleeps, and the
grass lands located between the two camps was known as Ten Sleep, a town of
three bars, a gas station and 260 people. We camped outside of town on an old forest
service road close to the crags. We met
with four other climbers from Smith Rocks and Grass Valley-Tara, Sara, Tori,
and Daniel. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the first route of our trip, Mikey stepped carefully on <i>Green Gobs of Greasy Grimey Greenie Guts</i>
(5.10a) a no star, offensively sharp route on the right side of the Shinto
Wall. The hot limestone baked in the
sun. Mikey failed to make our first
route in Ten Sleep seem easy. I had a sudden
moment of panic. What if the routes in
Ten Sleep weren’t soft? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I’m just gonna toprope the route,” I said, suddenly
intimidated. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Oh really?” Mikey looked at me and then pulled the
rope. I groaned and climbed the route,
barely making it to the anchors.<br />
<o:p></o:p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8v1G58gHr0EETfRquwMDcMH4ZfGAJ5kHJvg2pJ3uLh0q7mVVUJgrYWsVrriWea_GVs3tAUF0OEj_PD_02JwAQP-gh9AeXuEmWRN_4dD-GheSPWjQvBJmLYa39o9sfdV4HJGQJOgfBQaX6/s1600/index_2-2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8v1G58gHr0EETfRquwMDcMH4ZfGAJ5kHJvg2pJ3uLh0q7mVVUJgrYWsVrriWea_GVs3tAUF0OEj_PD_02JwAQP-gh9AeXuEmWRN_4dD-GheSPWjQvBJmLYa39o9sfdV4HJGQJOgfBQaX6/s640/index_2-2.jpeg" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next route felt easier.
The route after that was easier still.
We climbed a few more 5.10 pitches at the French Cattle Ranch. I onsighted a 5.12b and a 12a, grades I
rarely do well on. Mikey just hiked the
climbs. Maybe we’d be ok. We needed to climb two 5.12s a day. We just needed to stay on track. It seemed like a modest goal but Ten Sleep is
a dangerous place.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On April 2, 1909 Joe Allemand, laid face up with bullet
holes in his neck and side, the spots where deadly soft-nosed missiles took his
life. In the charred still-smoking embers of the wagons rested heavily two
burnt bodies, Allemand’s partner Joseph Emge and one of the other three hired
hands Allemand had employed to help heard the sheep along Spring Creek and past
Ten Sleep. The occurrences of that evening marked the pinnacle of the Wyoming
Sheep Wars, a series of fights between cattlemen and shepherds in which fifty-four
men were killed and 75,000 sheep were slaughtered. The cattlemen claimed the sheep men over
grazed the land, that the sharp hooves of the sheep cut the grass to a point
where it failed to grow back. That
spring night, a group of eight-mask cattlemen attacked Allemand his companions
for leading nearly 10,000 head of sheep across the Ten Sleep Creek. Allemand crossed the deadline, their flock
into cattle land. The cattlemen killed
Allemand and two other shepherds, they drenched his wagons in kerosene, and
they slaughtered 25 of his sheep. Sheep raiders had never been prosecuted in
Wyoming before and many locals believed the murders would escape justice. However, the deputies arrested Charles
Farris, Albert Keyes, Herbert Brink, Ed Eaton, George Saban, the owner of the
Bay State Cattle Company, known for leading the lunch mob that raided the Big
Horn County jail in 1903, where two prisoners and a deputy sheriff were killed,
Tommy Dixon, and Milton Alexander for the crimes and five of the men served
time in jail. The convictions put an end
to the open range killings and marked the arrival of law and order in the Great
Plains. Certainly, the law arrived in
Ten Sleep. The order part was more
questionable.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqbNSmVm-NQ3lUX_9RnxzdLWi2Mlta3W2oY6ujzlkTPqRBODDnelN1VUp3k7-LDXLIvqEo3FiE9tmQKJt-AalzUmiZWbSDBBkx3yiCpWkCuIekGp7nDxpPaLwE8JO00nAgVy3EUJAYquc/s1600/index-2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqbNSmVm-NQ3lUX_9RnxzdLWi2Mlta3W2oY6ujzlkTPqRBODDnelN1VUp3k7-LDXLIvqEo3FiE9tmQKJt-AalzUmiZWbSDBBkx3yiCpWkCuIekGp7nDxpPaLwE8JO00nAgVy3EUJAYquc/s640/index-2.jpeg" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
On the 4<sup>th</sup> of July, Ten Sleep closed the main
street. Drunken locals changed the sign
below the town’s only gas station. The pulled down ORV hamburgers from one side
and wrote “Obama Serves hamburgers” on the other side. On the stage in front of
Dirty Sally’s emporium, The Whiskey Tabernacle Choir sang, “<i>I was drunk the day my mom got out of
prison. And I went to pick her up in the rain.</i>” Mikey stood by the mechanical bull snapping
pictures of the contenders. A sea of
plaid shirts, boots, and ten gallon hats sang. “<i>But before I could get to the station in my pickup truck/ she got
runned over by a damned old train</i>.” With that line, Mikey grabbed the hand
of a cute blonde. He slung his camera
behind his back. They danced and laughed for an hour and a half. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2lpPf2EFMkGRihqDzRHjAo1WW7HKaxTwFHWBqr7iWG2hI0d8Kehr62O-LdOTN6U5GiRl5uIUVGtdLeARWemoCTffhjKOadIsHzyngPGtJOgsXUwnMNz0rcpyD85Zv6DzTe4p8HQ-aPXc/s1600/index-6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2lpPf2EFMkGRihqDzRHjAo1WW7HKaxTwFHWBqr7iWG2hI0d8Kehr62O-LdOTN6U5GiRl5uIUVGtdLeARWemoCTffhjKOadIsHzyngPGtJOgsXUwnMNz0rcpyD85Zv6DzTe4p8HQ-aPXc/s640/index-6.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
The next day of climbing someone forgot to fall. After drafting, flashing a few routes that I
hung draws on, Mikey sauntered to the base of <i>Crown Prince Abdullah</i> (5.12d).
He screamed through the first difficult boulder problem, hung on for the
pumpy middle, and high stepped to the anchor with an impressive amount of
strength. Mikey lowered from the
difficult route, having sent 4 other 5.12 routes that day. Mikey’s confidence
sparked and ignited.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“We are checking and make sure you weren’t having a fire,”
the National forest land employee said that evening. “This canyon is a chimney
and my house sits right on the top. We
haven’t had dry weather like this since 1988 when Yellowstone burned up. I
don’t want to be sitting in a cloud of smoke.”
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the fifth of July, Aaron Huey, dressed in a sheepskin
vest, spoke from the summit of a limestone block in the boulder campground on
the Old Road. Huey was Moses on Mount Sinai.
“In the beginning there were no bolts and the earth was dark. On the
eighth day God created Bighorn Dolomite and expansion bolts, and the heavens
rejoiced!” Two dozen climbers cried out at Huey’s declaration “He shaped a
hammer drill from clay and said ‘Behold the Bosch. Redeemer of man!’” The
climbers raised their red keg cups in cheers, spilling IPA. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The fire ban in Ten Sleep prevented Huey from his normal annual
barbeque, where he drenches chicken in his Grandma Bunny’s Solid Gold Secret
Sauce. Instead there was a potluck.
Climbers brought cherries and beer, rice and beans, empty plates and hungry
stomachs. In the laboratory of his sprinter, Mikey filled pot of chicken
sausage, vegetables, rice and beans, and than dosed the gumbo with <i>Slap Yo Mama</i> spices. At the party, a group of climbers stood
around a pile of Christmas lights in the fire pit, staring at the flickering
lights. It was probably the <i>Slap Yo Mama</i> that made a few of climbers
jump over the makeshift fire. DANGER. I
watched the drunken climbers for a moment before finding other entertainment,
my favorite kind- lying to drunken people. <o:p></o:p><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUj652eNRbGpuPyicprUgHc8ZqjNfs87kP-y0Uptme56awjr-J17wd98HlTu4v77DCj3vZxHXdej539JYcwK95yYojfrVqmnazvjeT6jD63CF-n9wIXP4LNN47rb5I2SXAv8TgN1dnf4JA/s1600/index_2-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUj652eNRbGpuPyicprUgHc8ZqjNfs87kP-y0Uptme56awjr-J17wd98HlTu4v77DCj3vZxHXdej539JYcwK95yYojfrVqmnazvjeT6jD63CF-n9wIXP4LNN47rb5I2SXAv8TgN1dnf4JA/s640/index_2-1.jpeg" width="427" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“As soon as my residence is over, I’m taking a charity
position with a Cuban hospital. There
are thousands of young people who need help from western medicine.” I explained
to a drunk Boulder girl. I detailed my break from my neurosurgery rotation at San
Francisco State Hospital and my imminent return to a higher calling. “Think of
how much good I’ll be doing by performing free lobotomies on teenagers.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“That’s nice,” the girl said. “You’re doing so much for the
world. Where did you do your undergrad?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Columbia,” I responded. “Of course.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I scanned the crowd for Mikey, excited to introduce him as
the jockey who won the recent Kentucky Derby.
I wanted to hear him talk about being crouched low, how he was winning
these days, sending hard, dancing with cute girls, how even as a jockey he sat
tall in the saddle.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I saw him off in the corner in a deep conversation with a
girl. I wouldn’t need to wingman.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Liquid Rainbow!” a
drunk Boulder girl snapped my attention away from Mikey. Earlier, I’d told Drunk Boulder Girl Number 2
that shiny was my favorite color. She’d shoved me violently at the suggestion.
“Shiny is not a color!” she screamed for the fifth time. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg80EvUPZj7kO0XDaVcBZlCK-GzivEkhVoBebGM0PkA0jEbuDspukgFAc0WrL-rbICPQQYFmPDnsgHJDkEL34a7jSycw02MrbYUevPn2HrNiiOZOzVNOjiznwearNfcO2QOjDm1VJk7W2fE/s1600/index-4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg80EvUPZj7kO0XDaVcBZlCK-GzivEkhVoBebGM0PkA0jEbuDspukgFAc0WrL-rbICPQQYFmPDnsgHJDkEL34a7jSycw02MrbYUevPn2HrNiiOZOzVNOjiznwearNfcO2QOjDm1VJk7W2fE/s640/index-4.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Her obstinacy cued my exit.
She called too much attention to me. I was sure one of the Colorado
sport climbers would find out that I wasn’t Wolfgang Gullich soon. I could be a victim of a lynch mob. I saw Mikey still talking with the girl,
smiled to myself, and retreated to camp.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We warmed up at the Slavery Wall a few days later. The steep pockets served as a great place to
practice our more gymnastic maneuvers. I
red pointed a couple of 5.12s that Mikey hiked a few days prior. Mikey tried <i>EKV</i>, the most popular 5.12c at the Slavery Wall and one of the few
Ten Sleep routes that deserved the grade.
He fell on the onsight and his next attempt and his next try and the try
after that. The girl at the 5<sup>th</sup> of July party hadn’t been talking
with him; she’d been talking at him.
He’d hoped that I would come save him but I’d disappeared that
night. He’d gone for an epic hike in the
mountains hoping to cleanse himself of too much vodka. Mikey failed on <i>EKV</i>. He fell on <i>Screaming Night Hog,</i> a one-move
5.12c. He wobbled. The right words failed to come out of my
mouth. I wanted to reassure him, make my
friend feel better, and give him some confidence. I hoped consistency would pay. The next day we went climbing, we’d do our
two 5.12s. We’d send. I hoped.
At the very least, we were having an adventure, especially if we
considered the kids camping with us.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I’m gonna go to the
bathroom and see how much of a shower I can take,” Daniel Jordan said as he
walked into the coffee shop bathroom.
None of us were clean. Dust
covers the cowboys when they walk into the Ten Sleep saloon. We walked in with entire clouds of dirt. The bathing options come down to the shallow
and cold river, the greasy bottomed Meadow Lark Lake, or the Ten Broek RV Park. The latter offers warm showers and a decent
facility but at the excessive price of $8.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Over coffee, Tara read excerpts of the mommy porn book <i>Fifty Shades of Grey. </i>Sara and Tori listened raptly to the BDSM
relationship between innocent college student Anastasia Steele and the older
darker millionaire Christian Grey. She opened to the well-creased page 137 and
read, “<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;">“I pull him
deeper into my mouth so I can feel him at the back of my throat and then to the
front again. My tongue swirls around the end. He’s my very own Christian
Grey-flavored Popsicle. I suck harder and harder …<i><span style="border: none windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: none windowtext 0in; padding: 0in;"> Hmm </span></i>… My
inner goddess is doing the merengue with some salsa moves.”</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"><br /></span>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgufT2nTB0VIxuEBKWxreAsqolY_pPZW3z3RKBKkqhK2gF3QRSXuo-oZXPK90T_owmTEGSBRJ9t21TEkOdTgoQlMTkvGNdrmVFP4xSP5o3dyysLEs4dKz2VhZwLq3wj_I0T1FI9ZSI5WE8f/s1600/index-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgufT2nTB0VIxuEBKWxreAsqolY_pPZW3z3RKBKkqhK2gF3QRSXuo-oZXPK90T_owmTEGSBRJ9t21TEkOdTgoQlMTkvGNdrmVFP4xSP5o3dyysLEs4dKz2VhZwLq3wj_I0T1FI9ZSI5WE8f/s640/index-1.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;">Mikey,
Daniel, and I looked at each other awkwardly. The morning erotica and the
strong estrogen presence of the three women overwhelmed us. I missed my lady friend, Kim, back home. She
provided stability and the consistency I needed in my life. Daniel put his backpack
in front of his lap and walked away. Mikey and I packed our bags to head to the
crag that day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;">That
day, Mikey got back on track. Two 5.12s
went down again. I pointed him towards
Hellion, a 5.13c route at the Super Erratic.
The route begins with a couple of bolts of mellow climbing followed by a
difficult boulder problem. From the end
of a hard windmill move the climbing stays consistent. Mikey’s power helped him
find the correct sequence for the crux, linking the hard moves would be the
true difficulty for him though. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;">We sat
down in our makeshift living room that night.
Early in the trip, I rolled a few enormous logs from across the road up
into camp. The girls had found a few
long branches. Sara braided Tara’s core
shot rope into the branches. We had a
couch. Daniel bought tiki lamps to kill
the mosquitos. We sat at dinner. Mikey and I enjoyed our dinner. We ate well on the trip. Where the kids ate Snicker’s ice cream bars
for dinner, we had hot roast beef sandwiches on toasted ciabbatta bread with a
stout mustard, avocado and a side of corn on the cob. Baller.</span><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNL_oRPSbVP-f2E_m224nx4LVIxGZbFikXb9lRf4qh-8CxBdx_4sya_LDmtjBc51M14qvvYR-8p6zrNRjX5593SAKcPVbhuSRZxvH1EzDGTFseLABeYXR1MEwhAf3l-ch8rabWAM-hfAiZ/s1600/index-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNL_oRPSbVP-f2E_m224nx4LVIxGZbFikXb9lRf4qh-8CxBdx_4sya_LDmtjBc51M14qvvYR-8p6zrNRjX5593SAKcPVbhuSRZxvH1EzDGTFseLABeYXR1MEwhAf3l-ch8rabWAM-hfAiZ/s640/index-3.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I’m gonna have desert,” Daniel said after polishing off a
burrito filled with beans and more beans. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Does anyone else want a Christian
Grey Popsicle?”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The days ticked off and so did the routes. Mikey and I were executing our plan. We both hit 20 5.12s and we had a few more
days of climbing to go. We aimed for
25. I wanted to send <i>Kyberspace</i> (5.13a), <i>Burden of Immortality</i>, (5.12d) and <i>Crown Prince Abdullah</i>, (5.12d).
Mikey set his sights on <i>Hellion. </i>I fought through K<i>yberspace, </i>while Mikey worked on <i>Hellion. </i>After we warmed up
on <i>Napoleon’s High Chair</i> (5.12a), I
dispatched <i>Burden </i>and we went to <i>Hellion.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The send of the trip definitely went to Mikey. After a dry fire on <i>Hellion</i>, Mikey pulled his boots back on. He climbed smoothly to the crux windmill
move, stuck it and then started to fight.
Screams echoed across the Super erratic cliff when he hit the next
sequence. A few climbers walked towards
the base. Mikey shook out, stared at the
redpoint crux and yelled. Sara, Tara,
and Tori cheered him on. He barely latched
each hold. He eked through to the “easy”
exit climbing. “Come on Mikey!” “Go Mikey!” “You can do it!” The three cheerleaders
cried. Mikey fought every move and
finally clipped the anchors. The entire
crag let out a cheer. I even swooned a
little.<o:p></o:p><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinx7sh0nO9OnmOpjDb9zk2DJNVeYWA6E7G5R7vqKqwh_JjT-2_RtwG6CGz7PhR_PoEcoeu7uWlVNNFbS_W9svrtrKvJxDvLhIMDhRmn2j5Ei0DP9HjT-kTmZXAOufZW5NLzM23je6VoVNE/s1600/index-5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinx7sh0nO9OnmOpjDb9zk2DJNVeYWA6E7G5R7vqKqwh_JjT-2_RtwG6CGz7PhR_PoEcoeu7uWlVNNFbS_W9svrtrKvJxDvLhIMDhRmn2j5Ei0DP9HjT-kTmZXAOufZW5NLzM23je6VoVNE/s640/index-5.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We packed the van with a bottle of Smirnoff, some grapefruit
juice, a couple of beers, the girls and Mikey and I. It was my last night in Ten Sleep. Tara would leave the next day as well. Daniel had flown home already. Mikey laughed
and wiggled his toes, which Sara had painted a deep purple. The walls wobbled
from side to side. Mikey said something funny. I laughed.
The girls giggled along with us Music drowned the pattering rain. Mikey
and I finished the last of the vodka. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“It’s been a good trip,” I said when the girls had
left. “You climbed well. We both did.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mikey nodded. I slid
the door open. The Wyoming stars streaked across the sky. I passed out in my tent, happy to have such a
good time in Ten Sleep, and anticipating going home to California, to my
girlfriend.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My bags dropped in the parking lot of the Cody Wyoming
airport. I hugged Mikey. The trip had been great for me. I’d climbed well, sending 26 different 5.12s
and 50 routes all-together. I got some of the fitness I needed to make another
effort on El Cap. Mikey sent his hardest sport climb ever during the trip. We
executed our goals. Mikey drove away, I saw his figure in the driver’s seat of
the Sprinter. Mikey sat tall in the
saddle.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-48959032673741650362013-01-01T12:55:00.000-08:002013-01-01T14:02:36.422-08:00Improving in Climbing<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Everyone wants to improve, to excel at their passion.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I dream of free climbing enormous walls. For the past ten
years I’ve worked towards these goals. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My early climbing focused on getting up walls in
Yosemite. Ascents of Washington’s
Column, the Leaning Tower, Half Dome, and El Cap all came together
quickly. Aid climbing involved a bit of
gear and a lot of tenacity. By
purchasing the former and easily supplying the latter, I learned to dial my
systems. With my aid climbing skills in
place, I focused on improving my free climbing enough to make free
ascents. My early climbing improved
quickly.<o:p></o:p><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbvXO4D14NQ4nyxmHkzsqKKBqC2iyZ-4TYgYyjdGOdQAsKZuxMLXMF7PS6_IbfMArf6q_Z-o8hkT1-GtnXn6xxlHEH-MoRb2wsH4n2g-YMvcotmlFB5qzv0Rzn5zTl5PbYAQhjCZ_hi_R/s1600/photo+(19).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbvXO4D14NQ4nyxmHkzsqKKBqC2iyZ-4TYgYyjdGOdQAsKZuxMLXMF7PS6_IbfMArf6q_Z-o8hkT1-GtnXn6xxlHEH-MoRb2wsH4n2g-YMvcotmlFB5qzv0Rzn5zTl5PbYAQhjCZ_hi_R/s400/photo+(19).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Double Rainbow over Jailhouse- What does it mean?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I learned to crack climb, to clip bolts, and then to
redpoint hard traditional lines using a combination of the two skills. Improving my climbing skills slowed while my
goals expanded. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The theme of improvement runs through the climbing
community. Everyone wants to climb their best. <span style="color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Alex Honnold voiced identical concerns. When I asked if he had any clues on improvement,
he laughed in response, saying, “I wish. I’ve been worrying about the same
thing. I've basically been climbing 13+ for a decade.” <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpD9X9YaK-xoDMUPlEOqOYmlfSQDkBdtr7Z1BQVde11a1r8ipP1GYVAtDvzON20ybtLPY-LfoOJKlFk2sTpFpskPQCC3VNYyVZEFcTDw2G96_C0jQsguWE9LOwpolZnFPgnzAnOIZ-JSjH/s1600/cosmic.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpD9X9YaK-xoDMUPlEOqOYmlfSQDkBdtr7Z1BQVde11a1r8ipP1GYVAtDvzON20ybtLPY-LfoOJKlFk2sTpFpskPQCC3VNYyVZEFcTDw2G96_C0jQsguWE9LOwpolZnFPgnzAnOIZ-JSjH/s400/cosmic.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cosmic Debris</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Hitting plateaus presents an inevitable challenge in climbing. What
can be done to break through? Train harder, remain positive, get motivated…
Cedar Wright’s suggested something totally different. “</span><span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
do have some advice on how to improve at climbing... move to Boulder... The
water here makes you stronger.” My
attempt to move to Boulder stopped when my Saturn Station wagon aborted mission
at Fruita Colorado. I returned my Saturn to California’s orbit. Boulder water scares me but perhaps the
mountain folks are clued into some tips towards improvement. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">For some, breaking through plateaus takes time. </span>Beth Rodden addressed the challenges
of improving at climbing. “<span style="color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I think it's
just best to take it as it comes</span> <span style="color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">and be psyched with little victories and not
let the other things get you down.” The
gains in climbing definitely shrink but slow and steady optimism helps through
the slough.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeH5baioShBLkAULI4arHFNkvfMtqL20pDNBWMkrLVpXNbFlzNo1WbJ2Pva4XB8pA1ObqH90As6BlColwwgXosrQ5eZR8Q7htehpGmWLGL3xEUZrshmZ1u7tgYtlWVz8OVBUJNQ2NAkBV/s1600/Jailhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeH5baioShBLkAULI4arHFNkvfMtqL20pDNBWMkrLVpXNbFlzNo1WbJ2Pva4XB8pA1ObqH90As6BlColwwgXosrQ5eZR8Q7htehpGmWLGL3xEUZrshmZ1u7tgYtlWVz8OVBUJNQ2NAkBV/s400/Jailhouse.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Working Public Mayhem photo by the person with the huge watermark</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">For others, it’s about finding the correct motivation. </span><span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">“There are many ways to
improve on climbing, like training, weight loss,” said Randy Leavitt. “But I
think the most important thing is motivation. I had lots of it because I loved
doing new routes…. I found that I was more inspired to try hard and raise my
game when new routes were involved.”</span><span style="color: #222222; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfk1oV7kS2lwJrrn8xavLN1FERli5-4EWwWsG3jDNBAjGjPXnnozRvRe9lhaPyRO3spL_GLGhkzbDBireDHuPHbrRUAot8kYc8EvIbACLNjtidYpR1g4lEn0tDdQXSp6fQk1qg1z8T3w7/s1600/photo+(18).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfk1oV7kS2lwJrrn8xavLN1FERli5-4EWwWsG3jDNBAjGjPXnnozRvRe9lhaPyRO3spL_GLGhkzbDBireDHuPHbrRUAot8kYc8EvIbACLNjtidYpR1g4lEn0tDdQXSp6fQk1qg1z8T3w7/s400/photo+(18).JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Clay Usinger on a boulder problem Stanley, Kenny, Clay and I put up behind Camp 4 this December Last of the Miwok v6</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; mso-line-height-alt: 10.5pt;">
<span style="background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; color: #333333;">Luis
“Lucho” Rivera added a similar note, ”I</span><span style="color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> don’t really train, i just go climbing and
try to have fun. What inspires me more than anything is new routing.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Finding new routes in winter provides a
challenge. Winter presents short days and poor weather in Yosemite, a hard time
for first ascents. Since my Yosemite
season started this fall, I have struggled with climbing harder. I track my ascents on an 8a score card, which
is slowly thinning. In November, I came close to sending Cosmic Debris. Bad weather shut me down. Through December, I worked on bouldering
harder and climbing at Jailhouse. I’ve had few successes this winter. Still, in some small ways I must be
improving. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-08fFKoOP5sVG6p7-EdzMX2c7Oa3TDh7MZ8U-Hjvoc_J8FYZTi-dFg9ibEWPzuTomc2NlbeU-E4_cciMXhyGmr7ycOTWQP16crPK1YM_W4aNwlcVOmmJk_F546X0hs2L1DzTuwFIT_UiV/s1600/photo+(17).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-08fFKoOP5sVG6p7-EdzMX2c7Oa3TDh7MZ8U-Hjvoc_J8FYZTi-dFg9ibEWPzuTomc2NlbeU-E4_cciMXhyGmr7ycOTWQP16crPK1YM_W4aNwlcVOmmJk_F546X0hs2L1DzTuwFIT_UiV/s400/photo+(17).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Walking out from Jailhouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A few more days of Jailhouse and then I’m
heading to Hueco for a couple weeks. I’m
hoping to send something before I leave, to find some sort of improvement in my
climbing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I like climbing. I really like climbing well. I do the former all the time. It’s about making the latter happen all the
time as well. Then, I’ll be exceling at
my passion and meeting some of my dreams.</span></div>
Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-47407963991880984702012-11-27T20:56:00.000-08:002012-11-27T21:01:17.120-08:00Yosemite Fall 2012<div>
I planned on retiring.
The Yosemite Climbing Assosciation promised to award me with a Golden
Piton for 10 years of being a Valley dirtbag.
I would show my dedication to by pawning the piton for a new set of
cams. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“How can u retire when u haven’t done anything yet?” Nik
Berry asked me. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Scanning my fall season comes up with a lot of toiling and
very little sending. A decade of
climbing in the ditch makes a lot of climbs projects for me. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">heading out the top of the Freerider after falling...again</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I arrived in Yosemite in September and immediately went to work
on the mega proj.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I rappelled into the boulder problem of the Freerider. I tried the difficult pitch twice before the
sun hit. I kept descending, Down. Down.
Down. El Rapitan. A few days later, I
dropped 1300 feet of rope from the summit.
I attempted the boulder problem again. I went again. And Again. And
Again.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here’s some footage of me on the wall.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<center>
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<center>
</center>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<br />
On my last effort, after waking
up at 4am to make the 2 hour hike, rappel 1300 feet, and try 20 feet of
climbing, I slumped my head against the wall and felt a deep sense of
failure. I did not send the boulder
problem. I realized I needed to be a
better and stronger climber before I could return to toiling on the wall. I
stared across the Valley at Middle Cathedral.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Every trip up to the top of El Capitan, I stared across the
valley at Middle Cathedral. Mikey
Schaefer established a VI route up the north west face. Father Time follows ten pitches of technical
slab before hitting a steep headwall and three pitches of very difficult
climbing. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For six days, I climbed with Mikey on the route. He managed to redpoint the enormous route
after a huge effort on the wall.
Watching Mikey fire the rig inspired me.
The route quickly gained popularity with two ascents just days after
Mikey returned to the ground.<br />
<span style="color: #0000ee; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 12px; text-decoration: underline;">http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/10/mikey-schaefer-makes-first-free-ascent-of-father-time-on-yosemites-middle-cathedral.html?hp1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2z5TTMDy_iwkkyr_4LWyp3-4ajtmZtouSsQtACkShcsk2vpNLH3xeC1WJEvbKlJ7deMD7QBHOsvy7X5NsY3wHkn4iFodAyJ_dcHsiQsxRy9AovCVD4hlKhHdvJgv6zBeJhwNkDtrnkNXo/s1600/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7c70f970b-500wi.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2z5TTMDy_iwkkyr_4LWyp3-4ajtmZtouSsQtACkShcsk2vpNLH3xeC1WJEvbKlJ7deMD7QBHOsvy7X5NsY3wHkn4iFodAyJ_dcHsiQsxRy9AovCVD4hlKhHdvJgv6zBeJhwNkDtrnkNXo/s320/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7c70f970b-500wi.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Mikey Schaefer collage of Father Time VI 5.13b</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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“I was surprised by how hard and how good it was,” said
Tommy Caldwell, who attempted the route with Jonathan Siegrist. The pair redpointed to the last crux pitch,
which Caldwell redpointed and Siegrist failed on, before descending in the
dark. Alex Honnold made the second
ascent with his lady friend, Stacey Pearson, jumaring behind him. “It’s 13b, straight up” said Honnold.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Further down canyon, on what Royal Robbins called, “The
steepest wall in North America,” Alex Honnold made bold steps in his climbing
career. Honnold’s resume includes many
difficult second and third ascents but he rarely steps out on his own. This fall, Honnold examined an old Todd
Skinner line on the Leaning Tower in the hopes of freeing the entire
formation. <o:p></o:p></div>
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After hand drilling a dozen crooked bolts, Honnold
established Welcome to Wyoming, a 3 pitch 5.13c slab journey to the cat walk,
the approach ledge to the Leaning Tower routes.
A few years ago, Skinner scoped a free line that parallels the initial
bolt ladder on the West Face. Dean
Potter sunk directional bolts and freed all the moves. A few well spaced holds lay a difficult path
up the overhanging section of the wall.
With the Welcome to Wyoming start, the 200 foot bolt ladder variation
section, and the free Westie Face- the entire Leaning Tower could go free. The
route would not be easy though. <o:p></o:p></div>
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“The leaning tower pitch is amazing but probably 9b and has
a few chipped holds at the top,” said Ethan Pringle, who tried the route one
day with Honnold. After investing a few days into the project and deciphering
the difficult moves, Honnold left for Oman.
The project remains.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZBXfmKzm0CeXZERSyr72XvjgMKgR0sDh1QZ09wC1omBY2OsJm832VIGWKwUctJvru4rcmYpV4jEBjwHnyTs_MjByf34eVqFUO6XNc8eiPy71GF7KLyoDxoOcR0yozt_Fgesm04W7ZvPd/s1600/20090426-after-six-0072.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNZBXfmKzm0CeXZERSyr72XvjgMKgR0sDh1QZ09wC1omBY2OsJm832VIGWKwUctJvru4rcmYpV4jEBjwHnyTs_MjByf34eVqFUO6XNc8eiPy71GF7KLyoDxoOcR0yozt_Fgesm04W7ZvPd/s320/20090426-after-six-0072.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The Leaning Tower on the Left and Fifi Buttress through the trees Mikey Schaefer photo</td></tr>
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Across from the Leaning Tower, on Fifi Buttress, Luis
“Lucho” Rivera and Dan McDevitt established the Romulan Freebird, a 10 pitch
sustained 5.12c route. First established
as an aid climb by McDevitt, Lucho
spent the late spring and summer months free climbing the pitches and finding
the best possible line through the aid variations. The route is a harder version of the Rostrum,
sustained 5.12 thin cracks.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
http://luisluchorivera.blogspot.com/</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35OW9Enq8fqnE17X68h_KRv6orNv_P9SCShzy5lskrRwR9O-PfV0UIM-Ac40FoG_ONxJ2drvlRejciDMlJO5kRSuaZ3ikO7k_D_5A8wavY5XaVjVl1f8xGLHlHm9wPb5_XUqilLd_U8S-/s1600/leading+pitches+on+the+romulan+127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35OW9Enq8fqnE17X68h_KRv6orNv_P9SCShzy5lskrRwR9O-PfV0UIM-Ac40FoG_ONxJ2drvlRejciDMlJO5kRSuaZ3ikO7k_D_5A8wavY5XaVjVl1f8xGLHlHm9wPb5_XUqilLd_U8S-/s320/leading+pitches+on+the+romulan+127.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Lucho and I climbing the 3rd pitch 5.11 on Romulan Freebird</td></tr>
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“You need to Hoover your car,” Hazel Findlay said as we left
Camp 4. <o:p></o:p></div>
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“You’re cheeky,” I told the blonde haired Gummy Bear. By 10 am, we reached the base of the
Freebird. The route begins with a
technical stemming pitch. I fell, climbed
to the anchor, lowered, cleaned the gear, and pulled the rope. Hazel hiked the pitch. She had recently made a free ascent of the
Muir Wall. <span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9pt;"><a href="http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2012/10/23/free-adventures-on-el-cap-the-premuir-second-ascent-5-13cd-33-ish-pitches/">http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2012/10/23/free-adventures-on-el-cap-the-premuir-second-ascent-5-13cd-33-ish-pitches/</a> </span> Where other parties
encountered difficult stemming, the Gummy Bear bridged through the crux. She employed this same bridging technique
through the first 5.12 pitch, kicking her legs into a split.<br />
<br />
http://blog.bethrodden.com/2012/11/hazel-findlay-and-next-generation-of.html<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Hazel swung into the next pitch, which she fell low on,
emitting a shriek and a string of giggles.
She returned to the belay and redpointed the pitch. I followed cleanly and led the next two
pitches without falls. Hazel encountered
some difficulties on the top of an enduro finger crack corner. She led the next
pitch. I attempted the final 5.12 tips
crack. I failed. The Gummy Bear wiggled her fingers in it and
flashed it easily on tr. I made another
attempt but could failed. We rappelled
to the ground and finished a solid day of cragging. Nothing is better than climbing large routes
quickly or at least cragging them out. <o:p></o:p></div>
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“You have to promise me you won’t fall,” Stanley said. I
stared at the topo for the Nose and wondered about simul-climbing 5.10. We
could die if I fell but that that did not concern me. If I fell, I would be
breaking a promise to Stanley. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4jPr7X0p7_GIV0Yl67SbkbL-sUtu8mag6ke2mUK9cFw-TifEOXEchm8RarGBh4L-GED3W6GDvc1dsUR1Z7EvolHNRcKtlt16RRoFpEmOTTJU9SyQyclJo13Httvl_mwWYz2O0n9FwGAhe/s1600/Lynn+Hill+Travere.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4jPr7X0p7_GIV0Yl67SbkbL-sUtu8mag6ke2mUK9cFw-TifEOXEchm8RarGBh4L-GED3W6GDvc1dsUR1Z7EvolHNRcKtlt16RRoFpEmOTTJU9SyQyclJo13Httvl_mwWYz2O0n9FwGAhe/s320/Lynn+Hill+Travere.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">stepping through on the Lynn Hill Traverse on the Nose</td></tr>
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The next morning, Stanley and I walked to the base of the
Nose. At first light we started the
route. I never fell simul-climbing
because we short fixed instead. Stanley
simul-climbed behind me though. We
topped the route out in 6 hours 13 minutes.
I was exhausted and wanted to go to sleep. Stanley wanted to go bouldering. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGY_te5TlAScOxRtu2Prc9OCojAzfSbntSo78PBAA1LMzwkAz5oBWLmHgRqqpR4KMzi3m3WNP7LGdIdnACY7okBI17AuwlTXvHzBkYiGNDUBsngeWwGmvdLIRNNIAH9-aLs6qX6pzu1tqx/s1600/photo.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGY_te5TlAScOxRtu2Prc9OCojAzfSbntSo78PBAA1LMzwkAz5oBWLmHgRqqpR4KMzi3m3WNP7LGdIdnACY7okBI17AuwlTXvHzBkYiGNDUBsngeWwGmvdLIRNNIAH9-aLs6qX6pzu1tqx/s320/photo.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">top of the Nose 6 hrs 13 min</td></tr>
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Sean “Stanley” Leary ran laps on the Nose this season. Early in the summer he set the bisexual speed
record with Mayan Smith-Gobat in 4:26.
Mayan also completed the Nose Half Dome Link-up with partner Chantel
Astroga doing the Nose in 7:26. Mayan
said in a Rock and Ice online interview, “<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">As to
my time, I believe I could do them much faster if I was willing to put the time
into really learning the route, and had a partner who was a much stronger free
climber</span><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8.5pt;">.”</span><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9pt;"><a href="http://www.rockandice.com/news/2262-mayan-smith-gobat-interviews-and-pics">http://www.rockandice.com/news/2262-mayan-smith-gobat-interviews-and-pics</a> </span>Mayan’s comment bothered me greatly because she claimed her time could
be faster with a better partner.
Partners, on climbs like these, are part of the game. Stanley could climb the Nose much faster with
a better partner- he’s done it with Dean Potter in under 3 hours.<br />
<br />
I added that last bit to make my blog controversial. Can you smell the drama? I can!<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Stanley climbed with a better partner on a few other wall
routes. Alex and Stanley climbed the
South Face of the Column in 53 minutes, the West Face of the Leaning Tower in 1
hour 16 minutes and Wet Denim Day Dream in 2 hours 55 minutes.-<o:p></o:p><a href="http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13510-low-hanging-fruit-sean-leary"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9pt;">http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13510-low-hanging-fruit-sean-leary</span></a></div>
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Other notable ascents in the Valley include Will Stanhopes
free ascent of the Prophet, a difficult line up the south east face of El
Capitan.<br />
<span style="color: #0000ee; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 12px; text-decoration: underline;">http://www.arcteryx.com/Article.aspx?DE&article=Will-Stanhope-s-Prophet-Repeat</span> Jesse Huey made a 15 hour free
ascent of the Freerider. Jasmin Caton
and Evan Stevens, Greg and Mike Kerzhner, and Walker Emerson all made free
ascents of the Freerider. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXa1G38Ayb1ohuKyVVEW-CPizU00ABLorjVmytmbA7Rk2b1YT_GUYVmWXQ95AGIb-BZ0L89bEn7Le3R0PgNQe9f7Twy1pLWYwen8lNLqJ0-nBs4s_4YyTUarpyihLd9iecilDe6YpZJyk/s1600/282371_10100535291104198_1297695728_n.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXa1G38Ayb1ohuKyVVEW-CPizU00ABLorjVmytmbA7Rk2b1YT_GUYVmWXQ95AGIb-BZ0L89bEn7Le3R0PgNQe9f7Twy1pLWYwen8lNLqJ0-nBs4s_4YyTUarpyihLd9iecilDe6YpZJyk/s320/282371_10100535291104198_1297695728_n.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me showing video of Hercules at the Facelift</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I gave three slideshows this fall at Santa Rosa, the Yosemite Facelift, and at Stanford. I'm starting to get pretty dialed at presenting slideshows.<br />
<br />
The weather in the Valley turned from solid wall weather to amazing bouldering temps. Randy Puro, Mike Wickwire, and Kyle O’Meara replaced Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Kevin Jorgenson on the hard climbing circuit. The boulders exploded with a hosts of solid new V10-12 problems. I sent a cool problem called Squirrel over by the Gunsight. I also toiled a lot on problems, climbing stronger then I ever have. </div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNlFG7mqI_TcxJCdtiTNLUeevsPff6OwWO2ZQ3yCzbNFS5mm6eXNj_-TBbBRq4tluBaTZdjG4hz6c8Y3TJp5znTQnnyFDX0-4xJcc70LuxyuEF1En9sLrthqPDIQbFs1MuCaWOyrxOzGyc/s1600/Centerroute1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNlFG7mqI_TcxJCdtiTNLUeevsPff6OwWO2ZQ3yCzbNFS5mm6eXNj_-TBbBRq4tluBaTZdjG4hz6c8Y3TJp5znTQnnyFDX0-4xJcc70LuxyuEF1En9sLrthqPDIQbFs1MuCaWOyrxOzGyc/s320/Centerroute1.jpeg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The Center Route in Lower Yosemite Falls Amphitheater Scientific 12b</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Today is November 27<sup>th</sup>. For three weeks this
month, Kim and I house sat in Yosemite Village.
We bouldered, climbed routes, and hiked.
I managed to eek out an ascent of Jonny Dawes Center Route in the Lower
Yosemite Falls Ampitheater. I heard the
route called “scientific 12b.” Mason
Earle, who redpointed the pitch on his second effort, said “I think “solid” 12+
is a more accurate grade.” I also
climbed a number of boulder problems. <span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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I have invested a significant amount of time into
redpointing Cosmic Debris. Today, I fell
once on it, something I have done two other times. Redpoint cruxing. I’d like to send it before I leave in Dec. The seasons in Yosemite are changing. The days are short now but I want to, no I need to send something this year Than maybe I can
retire. </div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-24720980154739863972012-11-13T20:34:00.002-08:002012-11-13T20:34:42.541-08:00The Dark Brother:Mikey Schaefer Makes First Free Ascent of Father Time (5.13b) on Yosemite's Middle Cathedral<br />
<div class="entry-body" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 19px;">
The granite burned my forehead. I slumped my body further onto the wall, hoping it would support me. I cried. For the past two hours I seared my finger tips on the hot rock of the Boulder Problem, a twenty-foot section of unforgiving crimps that guarded my path to free climbing El Capitan’s Freerider. I’d spent 16 days over the past year toiling, working, and wanting to send the route. It was destroying me. I stared across Yosemite Valley at Middle Cathedral, El Capitan’s dark brother. How do people complete these enormous routes? [Above: Home in the clouds. Photo: <a href="http://www.dickeyphoto.com/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">John Dickey</a>]<br /><br /><strong>The Dark Brother</strong><br /><br /><a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/10/beyond-and-back-father-time.html" style="color: #006699;" target="_self">For over two years, Mikey Schaefer worked on his mega project</a>. From the Boulder Problem I watched Mikey toil on the cold rock of Middle Cathedral, pushing a line through immaculate slabs and onto the steep headwall of the northwest face. On his fortieth day of climbing, after hand-drilling 113 bolts from marginal stances, after questing on the wall searching for a free passage, after doing the majority of this work alone, Mikey summited. This was the beginning. The route needed to go free.<br /></div>
<a href="" id="more" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 19px; text-decoration: underline;"></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 19px;"></span><div class="entry-more" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 19px;">
On Tuesday, October 9th, Mikey packed water, food, and supplies for a five-day free effort up his route, Father Time. At five foot four inches tall and a solid traditional climber, Mikey Schaefer is the type of short man that people look up to. My stoic friend needed a belayer, someone to hold the rope and help keep the energy high as he fought up the wall. I volunteered to follow him.<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b554f970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="1_back" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b554f970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b554f970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="1_back" /></a><br />[Back in the valley and right back to the <a href="http://statigr.am/tag/megaproj/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">#megaproj</a> on Middle Cathedral. Lots of work ahead but at least the views are good! Looking over at El Cap. Photo: Mikey Schaefer (<a href="http://statigr.am/mikeylikesrocks" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">@mikeylikesrocks</a>)]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cecdc1d970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121009JJ0224" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cecdc1d970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cecdc1d970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121009JJ0224" /></a><br />[Mikey takes off with the author on belay. Photo: <a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/jeff-johnson/" style="color: #006699;" target="_self">Jeff Johnson</a>]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cecdeef970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121009JJ0302" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cecdeef970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cecdeef970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121009JJ0302" /></a><br />[Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br />Mikey stepped on one foot, shifted his hips and stood up. From early morning until twilight, he performed this maneuver. The golden rock yielded to free passage with a series of mantels, delicate footsteps, and far too many one legged squats.<br /><br />“Who established this route?” Mikey yelled. Fifteen feet below the bivy ledge, he danced on a series of small holds. A year ago, when he first climbed the pitch, he’d told himself the climbing was easy. Now the protection was far away and his feet were tired from a thousand feet of climbing. It suddenly felt impossible, and scary.<br /><br />“You got it!” I held the rope carefully.<br /><br />Mikey scraped his way to camp, a long three-foot wide sloping ledge below the headwall. Out of the haul bag came a bag of Cabernet, a six-pack of beer, an iPod full of <em>This American Life</em> and lots of chocolate. Mikey would stay on the wall until he freed the entire route. He was dedicated.<br /><br />Instead of being cramped on a double ledge with Mikey for the wall, I rappelled down a thousand feet of fixed lines to the ground. I spent the night in his Mercedes Sprinter consuming all the Cabernet, beer, and chocolate he’d left behind.<br /><br /><strong>The Boulder Problem</strong><br /><br />The second morning started cold and windy. The pitches off the ledge went smoothly, though we were dressed for the rough weather. After a steep roof section, Mikey belayed me to the base of the desperate climbing. The first crux pitch involved a series of heinous pinches, wrinkles for feet and 30 feet of hard moves. “It’s the Mikey Schaefer Pitch,” I said at the belay. “It’s short and hard as f***.”<br /><br />Mikey tried the boulder problem six times. He grabbed the holds and froze off them from the cold weather. Then he tried again. After hours of work, his skin and muscles failed. He returned to camp, overwhelmed and unsure if he could climb the route at all.<br /><br />That night, a storm passed through Yosemite. For two days, Mikey festered inside of the portaledge. He pulled the rain fly down and pretended he was in a different world. He listened to <em>This American Life</em>. He drank Cabernet. He hunkered down, waiting out the storm and preparing himself for the upcoming difficulties. I went down to the ground. Mikey stayed alone on the wall.<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce62a77970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="5_granite" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce62a77970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce62a77970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="5_granite" /></a><br />[I feel like I'm floating aimlessly in a sea of granite. Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b5ed3970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="10_lookingup" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b5ed3970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b5ed3970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="10_lookingup" /></a><br />[Mikey and James, 1,500 feet up, staring down the first 5.13 crux. Photo: John Dickey]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b79dce970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="11_schaeferpitch" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b79dce970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b79dce970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="11_schaeferpitch" /></a><br />[The Boulder Problem a.k.a. the Mikey Schafer Pitch. Photo: James Lucas (<a href="http://statigr.am/james_lucas" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">@james_lucas</a>)]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cef305b970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121010JJ0741_b" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cef305b970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cef305b970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121010JJ0741_b" /></a><br />[Mikey throws to a relatively large jug while working the moves on the Boulder Problem a.k.a. The Mikey Schaefer Pitch. Belayed by James Lucas. Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b79eb0970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="14_rain" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b79eb0970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b79eb0970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="14_rain" /></a><br />[Day 3, a rainy rest day, complete on the wall and day 54 total on the #megaproj. Ready to try the crux again tomorrow! Photo: Mikey Scheafer]<br /><br /><br />He grabbed the pinch, kept his body tight, hit the crimp, readjusted his feet and stabbed for the ear. In the second between holds, his body sagged. Two days of sitting in a portaledge, staring out a wet window weighed him down. He failed.<br /><br />Mikey’s head froze against the cold rock. For the past two hours he had tried the Boulder Problem, grabbing the subtle pinch, snatching the crimp, and trying to stick the elusive ear hold. His fingers numbed and he fell. This twenty-foot section guarded his path to a free first ascent of the Northwest face of Middle Cathedral.<br /> <br />The way his body sagged when he hit the ear hold, how his fingers opened snatching the crimp, the sheer difficulty of the Mikey Schaefer Pitch suggested that Mikey might not be able to do it. I looked across the Valley to El Cap. We were about the same height as the Boulder Problem on Freerider.<br /><br />“You can do it,” I said with a conviction I did not believe. Encouraged, Mikey tried again and again. With each attempt, he got closer.<br /> <br />On the eighth day, Mikey moved his feet a little differently. He grabbed a hold a few inches to the right. The move to the ear became easier. Suddenly, he stood on top of the Boulder Problem. Success.<br /> <br /><strong>The Athletic 12c</strong><br /><br />Mikey fired into the next pitch, a forearm-sapping layback flake. We called the pitch The Athletic 12c, an ironic note on how strong climbers call 5.13 pitches “athletic 12c.” At the end of the difficulties, he torqued his knee behind a flake, resting before the final hard moves to the anchors. He hiked the pitch and returned to camp successful. The line would go free.<br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce68e68970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="25_sendingoff" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce68e68970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce68e68970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="25_sendingoff" /></a><br />[Mikey casting off on the Athletic 12c. Photo: Sean Leary (<a href="http://statigr.am/seanleary" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">@seanleary</a>)]<br /><br />In the morning, I raced up the fixed lines to Mikey’s camp for the fifth and final time. The slabs to the portaledge passed quickly below my feet as I pushed my ascenders up the fixed lines. I stepped up to his camp and hit the stopwatch.<br /> <br />“29 minutes 45 seconds,” sweat poured down my face.<br /><br />Mikey barely looked up, “I think my knee is jacked.”<br /><br />Mikey pulled himself off the portaledge. Torqueing his knee on The Athletic 12c pitch, nine days sleeping on the wall, rationing five days of supplies into nine, and the endless effort of Father Time were taking their toll. Bright red stubble covered his face. His hair, salted with more white than I remembered, stood on end. Insanity crept into his eyes.<br /><br />“You might need to lead some pitches.”<br /> <br />“Sure,” I said. I heard more than a request for a top rope in his voice. On the Index Corner, the last bit of the headwall, he had grabbed two wrinkles and nearly pulled the mountain apart to hike his foot half an inch. He had finished the Mikey Schaefer Pitch, The Athletic 12c. He needed to complete the route, to finish the mega project. There was just a little more but even the tiny bits were crushing him.<br /> <br />When we reached the highpoint, Mikey tied in. “I’ll try and lead this pitch.” He slowly climbed up a perfect corner. He winced as his knee turned in the crack. He kept going.<br /> <br />Mikey fought through the pain. He punched through another boulder problem and then held on through a final steep section of rock. We reached a large ledge two pitches from the top of Middle Cathedral. Two hundred feet of death blocks guarded the summit. The climbing wore through the last of Mikey’s mental reserves.<br /><br />We clambered to the summit of Middle Cathedral. Mikey gave a tired smile, a reward that would last. Our headlamps lit the wall as we rappelled down to camp. <br /><br />“I’m too tired to go down. I don’t think I can make the hike anyway.” Mikey hunkered into his portaledge. Tomorrow, he’d come down – worn, tired, and complete. As I descended, I stared across at El Capitan. The headlamp on Father Time shone across the Valley. The light hit the Boulder Problem. I’d try again. I’d stay committed. I’d put in the time. I’d climb like Mikey. I left the base of Middle Cathedral and walked towards El Capitan.<br /><br /><strong>Postscript</strong><br /><br />On October 21, 2012, <a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/05/the-free-triple.html" style="color: #006699;" target="_self">Alex Honnold</a>, supported by Stacey Pearson, made a one-day free ascent of Father Time and the second ascent. “It's 5.13b, straight up,” reported Honnold. The route was attempted by <a href="http://www.patagonia.com/tommycaldwell" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Tommy Caldwell</a> and Jonathan Siegrist on October 19, a day after Mikey finished. The pair climbed free up to the Index Corner, which Caldwell redpointed but Siegrist did not. They descended from that pitch.<br /><br /><em><strong>James Lucas</strong> lives out of his Saturn station wagon, bouncing between Yosemite and and other Sierra crags. He really likes rock climbing. Read more from James on his blog, <a href="http://jamesclucas.blogspot.com/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Life of a Walking Monkey</a>, and on Instagram at <a href="http://statigr.am/james_lucas" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">@james_lucas</a>.</em><br /><br /><em>Patagonia ambassador <strong>Mikey Schaefer</strong> has carried a passion for rock climbing and a love of photography since he was 13. He’s climbed and made images around the world, but he always returns to the place he calls home – Yosemite. See more at <a href="http://mikeylikesrocks.com/blog/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Mikey Schaefer Photography</a> and on Instagram at <a href="http://statigr.am/mikeylikesrocks" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">@mikeylikesrocks</a>.</em><br /><br /><em>More photos from the free ascent:</em><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee4621ff4970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121009JJ0522" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee4621ff4970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee4621ff4970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121009JJ0522" /></a><br />[Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a28e970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="7_thumbs" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a28e970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a28e970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="7_thumbs" /></a><br />[Sent to the bivy ledge. Photo: James Lucas]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a2cf970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="8_onehanded" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a2cf970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a2cf970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="8_onehanded" /></a><br />[James Lucas is so bad-ass he hikes 5.12+ slabs with one arm tied behind his back. Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce631b5970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="9_bivy" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce631b5970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce631b5970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="9_bivy" /></a><br />[Good morning from Yosemite. Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cece29c970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121010JJ0570" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cece29c970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cece29c970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121010JJ0570" /></a><br />[Home on the wall. Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce631ed970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="12_crux" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce631ed970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce631ed970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="12_crux" /></a><br />[Mikey works the crux. Photo: James Lucas/Tom Evans]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a37d970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"></a><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b81dce970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="13_clouds_b" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b81dce970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b81dce970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="13_clouds_b" /></a><br />[From last night as the clouds rolled in heavy. It might rain today. Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b65ad970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="16_tent" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b65ad970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b65ad970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="16_tent" /></a><br />[Another rain day up here, but at least I had a little company. Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b65e4970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="18_brushing" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b65e4970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b65e4970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="18_brushing" /></a><br />[Mikey brushing the holds before sending the 5.13 Index Corner pitch. Photo: James Lucas]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b6626970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="19_warmup" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b6626970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b6626970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="19_warmup" /></a><br />[Mikey warming up on the Athletic 12c pitch. Photo: James Lucas]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce650f1970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="4_james" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce650f1970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce650f1970c-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="4_james" /></a><br />[James on the "easy" 5.13 pitch. Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a4f0970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20_food" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a4f0970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a4f0970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20_food" /></a><br />[About to finish day seven up here. #portaledgejunkshow #runningoutofbeer #restdaysareboring. Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32be62f7970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121010JJ0706" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32be62f7970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32be62f7970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121010JJ0706" /></a><br />[Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32be636d970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121010JJ0782" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32be636d970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32be636d970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121010JJ0782" /></a><br />[Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3cecf23b970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"></a><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32c0a58c970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121010JJ0806_b" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32c0a58c970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32c0a58c970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121010JJ0806_b" /></a><br />[Mikey working the delicate lie back moves on the second "easy" 5.13 pitch. Belayed by James Lucas. Photo: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b66bb970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="21_friends" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b66bb970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b66bb970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="21_friends" /></a><br />[Keeping our eyes peeled for Mikey as the fog clears on his new route on Middle Cathedral. Photo: Nate Ptacek (<a href="http://statigr.am/arborealis" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">@arborealis</a>)]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a584970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="22_bouldersuccess" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a584970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a584970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="22_bouldersuccess" /></a><br />[After over a week on the wall the Boulder Problem went down! Time for the Athletic 12c. Nice job, Mikey. Photo: James Lucas]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a5f8970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="23_sean" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a5f8970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a5f8970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="23_sean" /></a><br />[Sean Leary following the boulder problem after I sent on day eight. Saying I'm stoked would be an understatement. Only one more 5.13 pitch to go! Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a63e970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="24_thumbs2" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a63e970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a63e970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="24_thumbs2" /></a><br />[Sending on middle. Photo: Sean Leary]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7c70f970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="28_send" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7c70f970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7c70f970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="28_send" /></a><br />[After nine days on the wall and nearly 60 days of effort spread over two years Father Time is officially finished! No longer the <a href="http://statigr.am/tag/megaproj/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">#megaproj</a>now the #megaroute. So many people to thank that helped out:<a href="http://jamesclucas.blogspot.com/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">James Lucas</a>, <a href="http://www.patagonia.com/katerutherford" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Kate Rutherford</a>, <a href="http://www.dickeyphoto.com/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">John Dickey</a>, <a href="http://statigr.am/seanleary" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Sean Leary</a>, <a href="http://www.patagonia.com/us/home" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Patagonia</a>,<a href="http://statigr.am/oceangoingmonkey" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Josh Huckaby</a>, <a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/jeff-johnson/" style="color: #006699;" target="_self">Jeff Johnson</a> and <a href="http://bendittophoto.com/" style="color: #006699;" target="_blank">Ben Ditto</a>. Photos: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a6e3970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="27_line" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a6e3970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a6e3970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="27_line" /></a><br />[Father Time (5.13b), Middle Cathedral, Yosemite Valley, California. Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><strong></strong><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a89b970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="29_repeat" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a89b970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32b7a89b970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="29_repeat" /></a><br />[I thought I was going to get a rest day, but oh no. Back up here on Father Time cleaning my ropes so Tommy Caldwell and Jonathan Siegrist can attempt the second ascent! Photo: Mikey Schaefer]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee464924b970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121021JJ0066" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee464924b970d" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee464924b970d-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121021JJ0066" /></a><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32c0c990970b-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="20121021JJ0056" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32c0c990970b" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017c32c0c990970b-500wi" style="border: 0px; width: 467px;" title="20121021JJ0056" /></a><br />[Mikey Schaefer sorts out the gear he used on Father Time. Almost two thousand feet of rope, two dangerously worn out harnesses, multiple biners warn thin from rapelling, blown out anchor webbing, and a beat down hammer, to name a few. Photos: Jeff Johnson]<br /><br /><br /><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017ee45b8ac5970d-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"></a><a class="asset-img-link" href="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce65975970c-popup" style="color: #006699; display: inline;"><img alt="30_base" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce65975970c" src="http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef017d3ce65975970c-350wi" style="border: 0px; width: 350px;" title="30_base" /></a><br />[Mikey at the base of Father Time. Photo: Jenning Steger]</div>
Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-47112031072197321992012-09-06T11:59:00.001-07:002012-12-05T10:55:40.539-08:0010 Tips on Better Spray<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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If you’re reading this chances are that you’re not Alex
Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, or Sasha Diguilian.
You’re probably just another slob desperate to be one of those great
climbers. Well there’s two ways to
become that good at climbing- 1: Climb 60 hours a week for 20 years with
special attention on diet and high intensity training. 2: Learn how to make
yourself sound like them.
Here’s a few tips how to improve your spray-</div>
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<b><span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Speak
in the present tense.</span></b><span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> This
will make it sound like you are in the process or even providing beta from the
side of the cliff. "When I climb
The Nose, I bring an extra one camalot." Nobody will notice that you did
this once, 15 years ago instead they will think you've been climbing The Nose
every week for the past decade.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Specialize your
ascent.</b> Being the first to do
something is always important. Even though 13,876 other climbers have sent the VFun boulder problem
you’ve been projecting for years-highlight the fact that you’re the first Dude
Of Undereducated Child Having Enthusiasts to do the problem. Specialize your ascent- Tell everyone
you’re the first D.O.U.C.H.E to send it!
Remember that you want to start with the most important parts- that
you’re the first person to climb Magic Light (now start mumbling) on a Saturday
(now barely audible) with the last name Jordan (now in a total whisper) and
first name Daniel. (feel free to change route name, day of the week, and ascentionist's name)<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/td9DaARpA9g" width="420"></iframe></center>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Lack Clarity.</b> This isn’t technically lying. “I climb up to 5.14 on El Capitan.” This is true I climb up to it- than I aid
through it. This makes people believe
that I do indeed climb that hard. Also this relates well into the next tip.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; mso-line-height-alt: 9.55pt;">
<b>Talk Big-</b> Big grades, big routes, big
everything. “I was on 5.14 on El Capitan.” When I use a grades like 5.14 and
formations like El Capitan people become so awestruck with the grandeur associated
with high climbing numbers and large formations that they won’t notice you just
said on. This relates to lacking
clarity. The word on could mean
anything. Dogging, aiding, rappelling, and
even barely touching the route could all mean on. But hey, “I was on 5.14 on El
Capitan” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Know your Vocabulary</b>.
If you intended to climb the route in a day but than epiced, had t shiver bivy
on a ledge with no water, you just were on a push. Same if you dogged the shit out of a route
with the intention of redpointing. You just “felt the holds” The glass is
always half full.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Emphasize the danger</b>-
So you’re ten feet off the ground on an 18-bolt top rope anchor. Sounds to me like you’re in the death zone
with suspect gear. Hey, geriatrics
regularly die from 3 foot falls and ropes and bolts do have a 1 in 100,000,0000
chance of breaking.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; mso-line-height-alt: 9.55pt;">
<b>Hyphenate your adjectives-</b> Add prefixes
like mega, super, and classic with the suffix EST. The 5.0 route you climbed is now the
super-mega-run-outest route on the entire slab.
It is well known that adding the EST to anything makes it sound
better. Just try it. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; mso-line-height-alt: 9.55pt;">
<b>Climbing Grades are Subjective.</b> Uprate uprate uprate. Soft 5.11d is close enough to 5.12-, which is
the same as generally saying 5.12. Boom!
You just inflated your ego. Great
Success. This includes danger ratings, which are also highly subjective. One man’s
pillow is another man’s jagged talus field.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/fJzY3bTpjes" width="560"></iframe></center>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Tell Everyone.</b> Believe it or not everyone wants to hear
about your climb. I do. Definitely.
Making a solid group of subbies, I mean fans, who will promote your
dribble. Self-spray is weird but
subcontracting your spray is good. Plus have you ever played the game
Telephone? A ton of information gets lost as more people talk about you. The details of the ascent become muddled so
your 138<sup>th</sup> redpoint go but first try of the day becomes an
onsight. Yes!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You just read nine great tips on how to spray. I doubt you even noticed that I didn’t have a
tenth. That's because I sprayed about having ten tips- you don't actually need to come through with what you say- it's just spray. Now, you're on your way to become the next Alex Honnold. With my tips, you’ll be
the hard man campusing the slab route at the local chossy crag. Get out
there and SPRAY.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<br />Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-50538349062528537572012-08-23T22:27:00.002-07:002012-08-23T23:14:13.542-07:00The Monster's Paw<br />
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She hid beneath my box of climbing gear. I worried that the weight of the cams and
dozen shoes would fall on her but she seemed happy in her little hole. I shouldered a back pack and grabbed the box.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Good bye Monster,” I told Annie. I thought about taking a
picture of Annie to send to Kim but I hurried out the door to go climbing. Annie didn’t budge from her uncovered
nest. It was the last time I saw
her. <o:p></o:p><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_mylISCVUb8XbFMhGS1G1jJBOuMpSATzFeBPZ1xylSbo5MGBTrYL0hilUVsZWzarboyL4HFkbt9Ctla4yyJxrC8SmIOEzxPxQJSlSbFurYAJlYdz3As9ah4VzrpR8py13EzceXe1LdVim/s1600/photo+(3).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_mylISCVUb8XbFMhGS1G1jJBOuMpSATzFeBPZ1xylSbo5MGBTrYL0hilUVsZWzarboyL4HFkbt9Ctla4yyJxrC8SmIOEzxPxQJSlSbFurYAJlYdz3As9ah4VzrpR8py13EzceXe1LdVim/s320/photo+(3).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie and Gus hanging tough in the apartment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kim received Annie for Christmas. Kim was 19 and Annie was a few months old,
she was born on October 18<sup>th</sup>.
Before Kim had Annie spayed, she slept in Kim’s room. When Annie was 2 years old and in
heat, she purred maniacally. She didn’t
meow, instead she cried out in short barks.
Kim let her out of the bedroom. Annie escaped and 9 weeks later gave birth to
4 kittens. One of the four lives with
Kim still. Gus, the California street
lion, meows often. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Annie never introduced herself but I never introduced myself
either. The grey Persian first noticed the smell of bacon
filling Kim’s apartment. She jumped from
her window perch and waddled over to the kitchen. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Hello Monster,” I said. She stared at me and then lifted a
paw in the air, pointing it first at me and then at the cast iron skillet. Her flat face and her matted grey fur made me
suspicious but I lowered a piece of Applewood bacon to her. This was how she trained me.<o:p></o:p><br />
Over time I learned of a thing called Tortitude. Annie's coloring, a dilute tortoise shell grey with spots of peach, means she's a Tortie. In an article titled "Tortitude- the Unique Personality of Tortoiseshell Cats", the author of the ConciousCat article says, "In addition to their distinctive coloring, torties also have a reputation for unique personalities, sometimes reffered to as 'tortitude'."</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When there was ice cream, bacon wrapped scallops, even wet
cat food, the paw came out and pointed in the air. It was the tortitude and this was her signature move. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Did you notice
anything wrong with Annie this morning?” Kim asked me as I walked to the crag
on August 13, 2012.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I grabbed my stuff and headed out the door. She was hiding on the stairs. I don’t think she’d been feeling well the
past few days,” I said into the phone. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I’m at the vet. I
picked her up. She was foaming at the
mouth and wasn’t doing well.” Kim’s
voice sounded strong. “I’m gonna see what the vet has to say. I’ll call you back in a little bit.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Annie was born with a fused back. She walked with a limp. Her handicaps made her vulnerable they also
made her endearing. This year, she turned 12.
Her health detoriated. Over
Thanksgiving, Kim called me and told me that Annie was sick. She needed someone to watch her. I wasn’t
entirely happy about it but Kim needed me.
I drove from Smith rocks in a snow storm to Kim’s apartment. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I arrived in Berkeley from Smith, I could not find
Annie. She was not on her cushion by the
window or on the back of the couch. I
rummaged through the house for an hour, worried that she’d escaped somehow. I found the little monster hiding under the
bed. She limped down the stairs at a
near run when I vacuumed and pawed the air when I fried eggs for
breakfast. I watched Annie for a week
while Kim was in New Orleans. When Kim
returned, Annie was better. When Kim was
gone, I would wink at Annie, thanking her for bringing me back to Berkeley.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“It’s easier to watch people die than pets,” Derek Powell
told me that August afternoon at Tahoe's Snowshed Wall.
Derek’s father worked as a zookeeper and than later ran a pet shop when
Derek was young. He spent much of his
adolescence taking care of animals. Kim had called me again, telling me that she was going to put Annie down the next day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“My friend asked me to put his cat down.” He said at the base of <i>Little Feat.</i> He did not
elaborate. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I had to spoon feed a parott before it died.” He added a
few minutes later.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Derek works as a paramedic for the San Francisco fire
department. He’s seen hundreds of people
die. He’s never mentioned them but he
did talk about the parrot and the cat. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ernest Hemingway, in a letter to his friend, wrote of his
cat Miss Uncle Willie, who was hit by a car.
The accident caused compound fractures and the cat was very hurt. “It was a multiple compound fracture with
much dirt in the wound and fragments protruding. But he purred and seemed sure that I could
fix it.” Hemingway gave the cat some
milk and than shot it in the head. The
stoic Hemingway cried. “Certainly missed
you. Miss Uncle Willie,” wrote
Hemingway. “Have had to shoot people but
never anyone I knew and loved for eleven years.
Nor anyone that purred with two broken legs.” The death of a pet is a heavy thing. They are part family. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While I stayed in Tahoe, Annie slept on the bed with Kim that night. She’d stared at the ice cream and raw chicken
that Kim had placed in front of her. She did not wave her paw when it came
by. She did not purr. “Annie just died.” Kim texted me at 4 a.m.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I keep looking for Annie. Though she didn’t leave her perch
often, Kim’s apartment is a little quieter these days. I’ll miss The Monster’s paw.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMaYVCAvklJyurVgwyL8MJ-43YSG9gTgMY6Q4a1jWf9M9Bv05IeF0XkXG3QiiRYtH8ffiV7OjJ3RVO7TUy3jkzqgRze4Lc4HGZesNDvPk04uWrPftUbJddOpjDb6fzrUzUNC48OfYx7L5/s1600/Annie2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMaYVCAvklJyurVgwyL8MJ-43YSG9gTgMY6Q4a1jWf9M9Bv05IeF0XkXG3QiiRYtH8ffiV7OjJ3RVO7TUy3jkzqgRze4Lc4HGZesNDvPk04uWrPftUbJddOpjDb6fzrUzUNC48OfYx7L5/s320/Annie2.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Monster rules the apartment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
From Harpers Vol. 325 No. 1946<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>From a February 22,
1953, letter from Ernest Hemingway to his close friend Gianfranco Ivancich. The letter was purchased last year by the
John F. Kennedy Presidential Library for its Hemingway Collection and made
available to scholars this March. The first volume of </i> The letters of Ernest Hemingway, <i>a joint project of Cambridge University
Press and the Ernest Hemingway Foundation, was published last year.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dear Gianfranco,<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Just after
I finished writing you and was putting the letter in the envelope Mary came
down from the Torre and said, “Something terrible has happened to Willie.” I went out and found Willie with both his
right legs broken: one at the hip, the other below the knee. A car must have run over him or somebody hit
him with a club. He had come all the way
home on the two feet of one side. It was
a multiple compound fracture with much dirt in the wound and fragments
protruding. But he purred and seemed
sure that I could fix it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had Rene
get a bowl of Milk for him and Rene held him and caressed him and Willie was
drinking the milk while I shot him through the head. I don’t think he could have suffered and the
nerves had been crushed so his legs had not begun to really hurt. Monstruo wished to shoot him for me, but I
could not delegate the responsibility or leave a chance of Will knowing anybody
was killing him.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Afyerwards
I was crying when a Cadillac came to the door with a worse psyche than that big
one I had to hit. With him was his
keeper. I still had the rifle and I
explained to them they had come at a bad time and to please understand and go
away. But the rich Cadillac pyscho said,
“We have come at a most interesting time.
Just in time to see the great Hemingway cry because he has to kill a
cat.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They were
inside the house and so I locked both the doors and sent their chauffeur
away. The one said, “You have a
gun. There is always someone with a
gun.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So I gave <i>him</i> the gun (cocked) and then he started
to make <i>compliments. </i>So I took his
horned-rim spectacles off and took the gun away from him and put it away in
Mary’s room. Then I humiliated him as he
should be humiliated, omit details, and then the awful thing happened. He thanked me and his keeper thanked me and
said that was <i>what he needed and what he
came for.</i> What sort of people are these?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
He was a
rich boy, officer in 11<sup>th</sup> Airborne Div., which never jumped in combat
(not their fault0; they would have made the assault in Japan if we had not used
the atomic bomb and I suppose they never got over it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Certainly
missed you. Miss Uncle Willie. Have had to shoot people but never anyone I
knew and loved for eleven years. Nor
anyone that purred with two broken legs.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-16890331063680293602012-07-25T11:33:00.003-07:002012-07-25T11:33:57.835-07:00Giving Up Excuses<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">I
reached for the edge, a full pad crimp. The pumpy, overhanging basalt of the
Fugitive Extension weighed down my crooked left arm. The anchors taunted
me. I failed in slow motion. 20 seconds later and 20 feet
below, I hung dejected at the end of the rope. I wanted to scream at
Jailhouse, the steep sport crag in the Sierra foothills. The move was
impossible. I immediately made excuses for myself. I settled on one
quickly. I was handicapped.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixbu8lDRC0INri5nPI6sxkpQJMawVmQg0NH45a9czCv1PYyh0-ivIiLLDZIx3O7wlbgvlCMyLpdVQmien3wFbg-krx70vuaOOSpsAeXPJrJeUcxiovk2hNY5SJlLUIQLzKUWtOI7kztT_C/s1600/jhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixbu8lDRC0INri5nPI6sxkpQJMawVmQg0NH45a9czCv1PYyh0-ivIiLLDZIx3O7wlbgvlCMyLpdVQmien3wFbg-krx70vuaOOSpsAeXPJrJeUcxiovk2hNY5SJlLUIQLzKUWtOI7kztT_C/s320/jhouse.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jailhouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">Seven
years ago, I fell from the top of Intersection Rock in Joshua Tree. I was
onsight free soloing the North Overhang (5.9) when I made a grievous error. I passed the crux of the climbed. I stared at the summit, a few meters
away. </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">I
felt secure knowing I’d sent the crux, 100 feet of space swimming below me.
Then I repositioned my feet, moving them underneath my body, a slight
miscalculation. I started to barndoor, my balance suddenly gone. I fell.</span>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">After 70 feet I hit a
ledge. I was ecstatic. I had stuck it. I was still alive. Then I fell off the ledge and went another 30
feet to the ground. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4ckIM-PHvGApM2KHyCvRDZxH8nrG-CPWBQKE0-mcSCL1s92p5zgXWPg3hh0dSIjfzkmYbquJloXkVtUlPk7e2HkFI68zjr9ZI6DjbDDJHslJ4zaZKF6ZtQvyHDBZPNhYBWvpbzgvJQn5N/s1600/Joshua+Tree.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4ckIM-PHvGApM2KHyCvRDZxH8nrG-CPWBQKE0-mcSCL1s92p5zgXWPg3hh0dSIjfzkmYbquJloXkVtUlPk7e2HkFI68zjr9ZI6DjbDDJHslJ4zaZKF6ZtQvyHDBZPNhYBWvpbzgvJQn5N/s320/Joshua+Tree.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few minutes before I fell in Joshua Tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">Other
climbers, out for a mid December weekend at the National Park, saw my fall and
helped facilitate a rescue. I had a stroke shortly after I hit. My brain swelled inside my cracked skull,
threatening to kill me. A helicopter flew me to the ICU in Palm Springs. I
barely made it to the hospital. Spinal and ankle fusion, pin
and rods in my elbow, a vana cavity filter to stop a blood clot from entering
my heart, brain damage from hitting my head, a broken clavicle, nerve
damage. I spent 3 weeks in the ICU and 81 days in the hospital that
year. I laid prone in a hospital bed for over 2 months before I fought to
sit up. There’s nothing inspirational about learning how to walk
again. It’s a painful process. To
facilitate my recovery, I fixated on climbing.
I took the steps to get back to the crag.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1L1_Qykkbp2UY2p0x0M3wH4aeG_hUYbgkqAEPJChzr12SLZgBZmNKCW9-9hM9RTrLxpawmRIMSrgL07LmjhgjVHxrDf-ZMqXuMmEhJOrZIa92rIxLaEcExtPyeE-HxxGoKWmCvXNhAAI5/s1600/-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1L1_Qykkbp2UY2p0x0M3wH4aeG_hUYbgkqAEPJChzr12SLZgBZmNKCW9-9hM9RTrLxpawmRIMSrgL07LmjhgjVHxrDf-ZMqXuMmEhJOrZIa92rIxLaEcExtPyeE-HxxGoKWmCvXNhAAI5/s320/-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the hospital trying to figure it out</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">After
the ICU, I went to a spine and physical rehabilitation center in Los Gatos,
California, near where I was attending school at UC Santa Cruz. I learned
to stand, then to stumble, and finally to walk. I focused on recovering,
and returning to climbing. Every step
brought me closer to the crag. I wanted
to climb more than ever.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">“Maybe
you should take up something safer, like cycling,” Paul Dossick, a South Bay
area orthopedist, told me in his office. Dossick tore through the scar tissue
that had healed from my last surgery. “Or take up bowling.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">The
geriatrics waiting outside for their knee and hip replacements heard my yell
through the small office. I nearly
fainted from the pain. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">More
painful than Dossick’s wrenching through the tender scars of my elbow was his
bowling suggestion. It was a recurring theme in my recovery.
Doctors and physical therapists told me that climbing led to injury. I pretended not to notice. I just wanted
to climb again, it was crucial to my recovery.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">Dossick
removed two screws and a plate from my elbow during a second surgery on my
elbow. The orthopedist increased the
range of motion in my arm. He could do
nothing about the metal in my ankle or the rods in my back. The bottom of my
tricep would never return and I lost an inch of my reach. I went to physical
therapy and worked the muscle out. I push harder with my triceps
when I mantle, I stand harder on my feet,
I open my hip to crack climb on my fused ankle, I smear my knee to make up for
the rods in my back, I learned to
compensate for my various injuries. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">“Super
Pete” Chasse reached for the edge on the Fugitive extension. He grabbed the
crimp, wavered a little hitting the undercling, and then clipped the anchors. Solid.
The 40 year old sport climber lowered 30 meters down the overhanging 5.13b
sport climb. He hobbled to the base of the route on the right side of
Jailhouse. He unscrewed his urethane foam foot, replacing his custom
fabricated climbing shoe with the foot he used to walk in. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8seb8oU2JcJCPDQZcg0ckD2sn2HDNUhwg2GgS5nIX6OummBi0l515HRLNol8LPCWLdb7LyPDAyB0wR7dl0sR4jI5oNmgE65pxcbOGcDttR-TZ377D_FKFrywE5fgTDoYJCGhcCd1h1oG/s1600/PeterChasse.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8seb8oU2JcJCPDQZcg0ckD2sn2HDNUhwg2GgS5nIX6OummBi0l515HRLNol8LPCWLdb7LyPDAyB0wR7dl0sR4jI5oNmgE65pxcbOGcDttR-TZ377D_FKFrywE5fgTDoYJCGhcCd1h1oG/s320/PeterChasse.jpeg" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete on Father's Day. John Vallejo Photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">Pete
worked as a steel fabricator for a pier building company in Lake Tahoe and he
often moved large dirt-sifting equipment. A week after sending a 5.14b at
Jailhouse, Pete was lowering an enormous piece of machinery. One of the hooks attached to the chains
holding the equipment fell off. 6000 pounds of metal fell onto Pete and pinned
his leg. The doctors gave Pete two choices: a dozen surgeries and maybe partial
function of his leg or cut off the limb. Pete didn’t give the options
much thought, he let go of the dead limb. Pete bought two prosthetic feet to
attach to his new “leg.” The first foot
he walked in. The second he ground down
into a little shoe, he made a stiff edge on it, pointed the toe a little, glued
sticky rubber onto it, and created a climbing shoe. Pete’s returned to the rocks four months
after his accident. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">“I
never see the use in making excuses,” Pete told me over the phone as he drove
back from Bishop this spring. Over the
weekend he climbed High Plains Drifter, a high V7 at the Buttermilks that he
had broken his heel on earlier that season.
“There are certain things you can’t do but there’s other things you can
do to make up it for it.” Because of the prosthetic, Pete is unable to
kneebar but he can stand on his prosthetic forever; his artificial foot never
gets pumped on slabby terrain. For Pete
the loss of his leg didn’t handicap his climbing, it just changed it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeP-kyaKuzuJMYCgKcN7pxRx4t28_NA6jPeFq38LOgLTGEkthEK5czVpbUVerHQeZAV1CIFHmwkWenAPfiT75eycMn8AA5VgSKYTtEcOf2nxfORj67DVaxpkVYs1qNcee6NJz5HCgy2YH4/s1600/Cumberland_003.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeP-kyaKuzuJMYCgKcN7pxRx4t28_NA6jPeFq38LOgLTGEkthEK5czVpbUVerHQeZAV1CIFHmwkWenAPfiT75eycMn8AA5VgSKYTtEcOf2nxfORj67DVaxpkVYs1qNcee6NJz5HCgy2YH4/s320/Cumberland_003.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Pete and his wife Lidija in the Red.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">“Grab
the sidepull and reach straight for that crimp.” Pete told me at the crag. He had just hiked the route and I desperately
wanted to do it too. I started to show Pete my arm, to give an excuse of why I
couldn’t reach straight with a crooked arm. I wanted to tell him about my
handicap. I looked at his prosthetic leg, and remembered how he didn’t
use any of the dozen of kneebar rests that I used on the route. I could only
nod in response.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">This
spring at Jailhouse, I pantomimed the beta to Jake Whittaker, a tall
bespectacled Yosemite friend, as we sat at the pillar start of the Fugitive
Extension. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">Jake,
a master slab climber, once forgot his blown out shoes on his way to the Camp 4
boulders. He climbed anyway, trying the notoriously difficult V5 slab
Blue Suede Shoes. Jake crimped his way up the problem barefoot, ignoring
the extra difficulty. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXVqjhCRPfKkIEmZAIKIF2Rr2Xuqb86TyVX3zd7rprmfdGRpu5Zilp3A7VS_h-bZsULt3Z1bNSOynnzh2oE4Umx-eGefQb4dkdhRyYJv1D9X5jKJL7OUUgqcYOB0eAzJFKcJwqiGt2o5k/s1600/Jake+Whittaker.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXVqjhCRPfKkIEmZAIKIF2Rr2Xuqb86TyVX3zd7rprmfdGRpu5Zilp3A7VS_h-bZsULt3Z1bNSOynnzh2oE4Umx-eGefQb4dkdhRyYJv1D9X5jKJL7OUUgqcYOB0eAzJFKcJwqiGt2o5k/s320/Jake+Whittaker.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jake Whittaker</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">I
jumped in the air showing the dyno after the crux. I wobbled slightly showing
the delicate traverse move. I flapped my arms wildly pretending to fall
going to the anchor. I pointed to my
elbow, indicating my six-year-old injury.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">Jake
smiled. “So, if you’d sent that 5.9, you could have sent this 13b?”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">For
a year, I thought the move was impossible.
I tried and I fell. I had a good excuse for not being able to do the
route but Pete had a better excuse.
There are thousands of hard climbers who, like Pete, fight through
adversity. American aphorist Mason Cooley, wrote “Excuses change nothing,
but make everyone feel better.” As
Jake suggested, if I had sent the North Overhang of Intersection Rock, it wouldn’t
change whether or not I could climb my current sport project. I decided to crimp harder on the side pull to
compensate for my crooked elbow. I
fell. But I was closer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfmCvEyHsZJ61vnH9DtOo8socpLYQOutfTgC4974Coack90povVri4vMPTPaugQEl-SIETmanG8B3f8JIer76-EHgkOJ75Zt7HW3Yx7EZbenVwBKWsLizXQMSyJ7awpVO5eaSlQYYHSdWa/s1600/Jailhouse+Skidmore.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfmCvEyHsZJ61vnH9DtOo8socpLYQOutfTgC4974Coack90povVri4vMPTPaugQEl-SIETmanG8B3f8JIer76-EHgkOJ75Zt7HW3Yx7EZbenVwBKWsLizXQMSyJ7awpVO5eaSlQYYHSdWa/s320/Jailhouse+Skidmore.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Climbing on the Fugitive</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">This
spring, my raw hands grated across the basalt for the third time of the day. As
I approached the crux of the Fugitive Extension, I didn’t fixate on my broken
elbow and I didn’t think about the moves ahead.
I breathed. I stepped into the move, reached for the
crimp, and latched it. I fought a few more feet and clipped the anchors. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-14374936421630511802012-06-25T11:29:00.001-07:002012-06-25T11:29:22.787-07:00Love in the Border Country<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSXUYkeCn1QfuqG4Q1aB7Rs5QhyyVcvH-eFhBcEFn1tXnr1RHCJHWFk8O779CIX3Y8D5jD_aVyUB0kc4CQFAh3nMc0lP7ttZT8Wd1Nyy1DoS3NZUxr_o3GhK-dDKhwKP7kEM5fwJB0abaP/s1600/Ben+Ditto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>In October of 2009, Katie Lambert, Ben Ditto, <span> </span>a Slovenian climber named Luka, and I climbed on
the north western face of Yosemite’s Middle Cathedral.<span> </span>The route, Border Country, was named after a poem
written by a well known climber. The night before the climber’s death in an avalanche
in China, he wrote a poem about the climbing life, of living in the Border
Country.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we reached the base, I realized I had left my chalkbag
in the car.<span> </span>I ran down to get it.<span> </span>Katie was waiting when she heard a voice cry.
</div>
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“Heeey Katie.” Ben offered to tag our water up the first 200
feet.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAR8hKhuukUFRKKsUrMky14PtGx6lPRVMQWlgTBrUBi7wD7ptCPKZOhwcETqzLlxO4665yHKtwnG3Bw93Qmc1O1N88j8VFww3D-gqiR1yRm0HoQhmWDlJ7AGKZakJjzd0mzipLzghUe4Lo/s1600/_MG_4224.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAR8hKhuukUFRKKsUrMky14PtGx6lPRVMQWlgTBrUBi7wD7ptCPKZOhwcETqzLlxO4665yHKtwnG3Bw93Qmc1O1N88j8VFww3D-gqiR1yRm0HoQhmWDlJ7AGKZakJjzd0mzipLzghUe4Lo/s320/_MG_4224.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was the first time Ben saw his future wife</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’d told Katie that Ben was a Utah sport climber. She was
sure he’d suck.<span> </span>But the way he’d said
hey, the way he’d said her name, she thought “whoa who is this person?” <span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We climbed all day but hardly saw Luka and Ben.<span> </span>They were too far ahead.<span> </span>Every once in awhile, Katie caught glimpses
of a flashing smile, weird long hair, and a bandanna.<span> </span>Ben was climbing smoothly up the wall.<span> </span>On the crux pitch, he broke a horn but caught
himself on a hold below.<span> </span>It was one of
those days when Ben couldn’t fall.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At the top of the headwall, Katie led to the stance where
Ben was taking pictures.<span> </span>He first saw
her through a camera lens. She arrived at the belay and went to lower down. She
clipped a single biner and a mess of old webbing left by the first ascentionist.<span> </span>Ben thought either she really knows what she’s
doing or she’s kind of sketchy</div>
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When the shadow of the Nose hit the Zodiac, we
rappelled.<span> </span>We cramped into tiny belay
stations. Katie and I were at the bottom. Luka and Ben, who had helmets, were
on top.<span> </span>We held out backpacks over our
heads so we wouldn’t get pummeled by the rocks when we pulled our ropes.</div>
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At one ledge, while we waited for Luka to rappel, there was
a conversation about relationships. “Well, what’s up? Any prospects?” Ben asked
Katie.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“No.” <span> </span><span> </span>Katie replied </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span> </span>“I’m sure they’re
lined ten deep.”<span> </span>Ben said, shaking his
head.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSXUYkeCn1QfuqG4Q1aB7Rs5QhyyVcvH-eFhBcEFn1tXnr1RHCJHWFk8O779CIX3Y8D5jD_aVyUB0kc4CQFAh3nMc0lP7ttZT8Wd1Nyy1DoS3NZUxr_o3GhK-dDKhwKP7kEM5fwJB0abaP/s1600/Ben+Ditto.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSXUYkeCn1QfuqG4Q1aB7Rs5QhyyVcvH-eFhBcEFn1tXnr1RHCJHWFk8O779CIX3Y8D5jD_aVyUB0kc4CQFAh3nMc0lP7ttZT8Wd1Nyy1DoS3NZUxr_o3GhK-dDKhwKP7kEM5fwJB0abaP/s320/Ben+Ditto.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I snapped this photo of Ben. He was charming even with long eccentric hair.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We continued down the route.<span>
</span>Ben talked about Keep the River on Your Right, the story of an artist
and anthropologist who travels into the jungles of Peru. <span> </span>Ben was being characteristically smooth, living
up to his nick name The Coffee Shop Killer.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was an adventure. Pretty exciting. Not like Katie Lambert
getting lost inside her sleeping bag but exciting anyway. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvAHiU3y6yYSAH1ZAj4_sWR6nXMXhfvWLOD0_2JXH-KBMe35ci0fzvBnXz4LhBWzsj8TEpstlRcoaMkoeD1lb2iP1uytGmMyU2_gNc6YF7alatZUyk5zIGQ9L1Hr5VV_DEdBjzmOpYi0k/s1600/Speech.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvAHiU3y6yYSAH1ZAj4_sWR6nXMXhfvWLOD0_2JXH-KBMe35ci0fzvBnXz4LhBWzsj8TEpstlRcoaMkoeD1lb2iP1uytGmMyU2_gNc6YF7alatZUyk5zIGQ9L1Hr5VV_DEdBjzmOpYi0k/s320/Speech.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I read this story at Katie and Ben's wedding Summer Solstice 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we got down, we parted ways.<span> </span>Katie looked for Ben in Camp 4 a few days
later but Ben was climbing on El Cap.<span>
</span>They stayed in touch while he went to Patagonia.<span> </span>In the spring, Ben met Katie in Ridgecrest,
when her car broke down. They climbed in Bishop and became partners.<span> </span>These days, they live climbing together,
defining intrepid, and living a life in the Border Country.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Congratulations Katie and Ben </div>Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-84309261684728759342012-06-07T15:42:00.001-07:002012-06-07T15:57:02.003-07:00The Professional and the Lifestyle Climbers<span style="font-size: small;">Imagine casually
climbing splitter cracks, overhanging sport routes, and perfect boulder problems. Picture hiking enormous granite formations
without a rope. This is who I want to
be. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Alex
Honnold fell on the hike up to the crag.
He stumbled on the walk to the base.
Alex Honnold climbs splitter cracks, steep sport routes, hard boulder
problems, and free solos with ease. He’s
the type of climber I wanted to be. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTUuB3eSO5DHTLDGI-5evkoc3st3F-hNha5rM4-iZVTP0pefXO24F8RPj3bmWFo8H-BHKqQa9n1agW5ruVxzCe5SBewVpBQTbCE-shrSm50zMtU-dKJjo3riStjl8i8jwz1shCclQ7iGzu/s1600/rock+star+training+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTUuB3eSO5DHTLDGI-5evkoc3st3F-hNha5rM4-iZVTP0pefXO24F8RPj3bmWFo8H-BHKqQa9n1agW5ruVxzCe5SBewVpBQTbCE-shrSm50zMtU-dKJjo3riStjl8i8jwz1shCclQ7iGzu/s320/rock+star+training+12.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Alex on the Southwest Arete- this picture and a number of the other good ones are courtesy of Michael Pang</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> “My skin,” he moaned as he taped every finger
tip. Alex had climbed the past 22 consecutive days, wanting to send everything
in Squamish in one summer. He’d cut himself
off from his love of sweets to eek more performance from his body. No candy. No
cookies. No way. “My skin is weeping.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">Alex clipped
the first bolt on Eurasian Eyes, a 5.13b arête above the Squamish Chief
Campground. Alex has climbed over 500 different
5.13 routes. He’s mathematical about his
climbing, keeping fastidious notes of his ascents, and constantly
improving. This arête climb, though a
difficult warm-up, should have been easy for him. It wasn’t.
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">He was
wobbling. I tried to console him. Alex
tries harder than anyone else I know. “Stop
bitching. You can do it.” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">Andrew
Burr, a Salt Lake city climbing photographer, dangled nearby taking pictures on
the aesthetic line for one of Alex’s many sponsors. Alex climbed up to the arete’s crux and promptly
punted. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“Lower
me,” he yelled. I’d never heard Honnold
so angry before. He never gives up on a
route. His tenacity is one of his more
admirable traits. I dropped him to the
ground where he untied and immediately began moping.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">This
time, I tried to be nice.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“It’s ok
man. You’re just tired from climbing so
much. Everyone sucks sometimes.” I
grinned, and thought about showing solidarity. ‘Even I suck sometimes.” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“But I
never suck,” he said. “You suck all the time.
You’re used to it.”</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcy3gmiQgC1WMYECi-qCD7dFRjg06yKDmcqOX28zw0dZHFB-Rg63kJLTO-Zv1_QcF5fZkv0pEPUBy2CqOEl1P-5lFRVuq62dJ7l0SfW4u2wjtCQeTU-j3USakglGOqVBJl3JpnAVAbxqQ/s1600/rock+star+training+4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcy3gmiQgC1WMYECi-qCD7dFRjg06yKDmcqOX28zw0dZHFB-Rg63kJLTO-Zv1_QcF5fZkv0pEPUBy2CqOEl1P-5lFRVuq62dJ7l0SfW4u2wjtCQeTU-j3USakglGOqVBJl3JpnAVAbxqQ/s320/rock+star+training+4.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This guy is awesome at everything</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">I should
have drop kicked him in the head but instead I focused on not looking hurt. Point Alex Honnold. Obviously the pain crossed my face because a
moment later he added, “What? I’m just being honest.” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">We
dropped Burr off, and drove to the grocery store. Alex bought 2 pounds of smarties, 8 enormous
cookies, and a fistful of chocolate. He caved
into his desire and abandoned his no sugar diet. We’re all human and we all wobble. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdNW_jqiSzaxxOcogfRzU_2AAxZ5Hh15K3kqf3RZQXFtHH2ZH_UmnNSo_-IrsJtGGXn3XfilTjxtAzOWX43zO06F1DMjXSQDWXn_jHmp_4B15wwZ3tn9rQhMsotrX6XIoXLBQ6Fm6dWXV/s1600/rock+star+training+10.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdNW_jqiSzaxxOcogfRzU_2AAxZ5Hh15K3kqf3RZQXFtHH2ZH_UmnNSo_-IrsJtGGXn3XfilTjxtAzOWX43zO06F1DMjXSQDWXn_jHmp_4B15wwZ3tn9rQhMsotrX6XIoXLBQ6Fm6dWXV/s1600/rock+star+training+10.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Alex on 5.13R at Owens</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“Here,
you can have the rest of my Canadian cash.” Honnold filled my pockets with a
wad of beaver bucks and toonies. “And here’s a cookie. I’m going to California.” By the time he arrived in Yosemite, 36 hours
later, his skin would be healed. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU9LifHujlv3r0Y9JLe2onNZzbZflgGHc02_vKcAoXer884HvipyYnKJysewRGIwrQA-kOz_XrYsv2dFBKA3X5xg-YXbro55gbw5yADuSS9Xl8gDbj826UcmHUQDW2y5LbxPgFyELnPX0/s1600/rock+star+training+7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU9LifHujlv3r0Y9JLe2onNZzbZflgGHc02_vKcAoXer884HvipyYnKJysewRGIwrQA-kOz_XrYsv2dFBKA3X5xg-YXbro55gbw5yADuSS9Xl8gDbj826UcmHUQDW2y5LbxPgFyELnPX0/s320/rock+star+training+7.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me belaying Alex on his 5.13R at Owens</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> Alex climbed 22 consecutive days with every
finger taped and bleeding. He wanted to succeed so much that he tried a no
sugar diet. I bit into a chocolate chip
cookie and I suddenly thought of spitting it out. If I wanted to stop
sucking all the time, I needed to try harder.
I swallowed the cookie anyway.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">Most
Bishop two bedroom rentals are either a meth lab or part of the barrio. While
the former would provide a solid income with the clientele living next door, I
have always lived by the adage- “Life Is Good. Don’t Meth it up.” Two weeks before Christmas, Stacey Pearson,
Alex Honnold, and I moved into the upstairs apartment of a four plex. A couple of crash pads, four of Peter Croft’s
half broken deck chairs, and an odd collection of Yosemite cafeteria silverware
barely filled our sparse cell of a home in the Bishop barrio.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRS5R_DKexicbODSNZKM1WS6EpdPlhCmMGDmha_fA7a702AhrrpFIfICmpY9iYUSE6o9I-GrITfueupOfAENjBoK5gfG1rKJl4dkUp5UVDSoNeq174JAUpN_ni9eCU29JJbkgtV19es0mM/s1600/rock+star+training+2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRS5R_DKexicbODSNZKM1WS6EpdPlhCmMGDmha_fA7a702AhrrpFIfICmpY9iYUSE6o9I-GrITfueupOfAENjBoK5gfG1rKJl4dkUp5UVDSoNeq174JAUpN_ni9eCU29JJbkgtV19es0mM/s320/rock+star+training+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The life of a Lifestyle Climber</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Across
the street a chihuahua yapped relentlessly. On Wednesday nights, the downstairs
neighbors held their weekly Mexican Pentecostal Bible study. Their chants of
hallelujah and bloogitybloogityblah, their speaking in tongues or maybe their
bad Spanish, vibrated through the floor.
At night they would exorcize the demons out of the town. Most days after climbing, we would exercise our
demons. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">Arm
wrestling is not my forte. Seven years ago, I fell rock climbing. Two surgeries
fixed the compound fracture in my elbow but it didn’t repair all the muscle.
The lower part of my left tricep doesn’t exist.
It’s hard to mantle with my left arm.
It’s also hard to arm wrestle with that arm. Alex had already done his
daily regimen of pushups, situps, and mirror flexing so we arm wrestled for exercise.
We went left handed first. I promptly lost. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> “That was pitiful dude,” Alex said. “Let’s try
right handed. My wrist is a little
tweaked but I think I can beat you right handed.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">As we
grabbed arms, I thought of Lincoln Hawk, played by Sylvester Stallonne in the
amazing 1987 action drama Over The Top.
Hawk took on the bald headed, Bull Hurley in the finals of the World Arm
Wrestling Championships in Las Vegas. Before the match, Hawk swiveled his hat
backwards to prepare for battle. I
channeled Hawk, imagined myself putting my entire life’s worth, my big rig
truck and the love of my son, on the line.
Things were about to be Over The Top. </span></div>
<br />
<br />
<center><span style="font-size: small;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/txUIq2O3wPE" width="560"></iframe></span></center>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">Stacey
put her hand over our clenched fists. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“Go!” her yell echoed across the empty apartment. The veins in Honnold’s ripped arm
bulged. My oversized bicep pushed
against his. I lost ground. I lost more.
Then I pushed back. Trickles of blood filled my nostrils. I could almost taste the iron on my lips as I
pushed against him. I wanted this. I wanted to win. His
arm weakened. Then I slammed it against the table. I won. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“Dude,
my right wrist hurts” Honnold said. “Let’s go left arm again.” Alex
refused to lose.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hKL1tzCyTvKYNgTZpXEyhHFuhm9WGHDGXmuZw0gMoJ2JA3Dybjq4oZWEHuYCtMfahcqngXGTlpdwJgexAElGnREjOAZEZo6XIEI6YXK6gu6OkZcV99oOtxrCLKPnIciynYa4DsfQEM9a/s1600/rock+star+training+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hKL1tzCyTvKYNgTZpXEyhHFuhm9WGHDGXmuZw0gMoJ2JA3Dybjq4oZWEHuYCtMfahcqngXGTlpdwJgexAElGnREjOAZEZo6XIEI6YXK6gu6OkZcV99oOtxrCLKPnIciynYa4DsfQEM9a/s320/rock+star+training+9.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">New Years Eve excitement with Stacey, Kim, and Michael Pang</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">On New
Year’s eve, Honnold stared at me from across the chess board. The half dozen dirtbags cramming out
apartment watched intently. Honnold
moved carefully. I play a lot of chess,
which doesn’t translate into skill it simply means that I play a lot. Honnold barely plays chess, but he had a
natural tack for the game. He he played the two knight’s defense, a
style that isn’t a defense but more of an opening counter attack. Cautious and aggressive. We traded pieces. I sought to win by attrition. The other climbers stared at the board. I knew that didn’t want me to win. They just wanted Alex to lose. The end game was a slow battle of pushing
pawns across the board. Alex stared intently at the locked pieces. I focused on
the wall, apathetic. We eventually
declared it a draw. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI6OR7NF7FUf7AVbTXKeQEzkBC2LH48nt2jqlng0WaNq0YqNbiLlGcAJ770fZl1Sir5dDoB8yxH36l2fbmNSvJbXSGabJp2TpOPnfgJ2uWbTVXJPl4QCVi_WioJhnJFeG2E4TpMN0BRHKp/s1600/rock+star+training+8.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI6OR7NF7FUf7AVbTXKeQEzkBC2LH48nt2jqlng0WaNq0YqNbiLlGcAJ770fZl1Sir5dDoB8yxH36l2fbmNSvJbXSGabJp2TpOPnfgJ2uWbTVXJPl4QCVi_WioJhnJFeG2E4TpMN0BRHKp/s320/rock+star+training+8.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Everybody wants to be Bobby Fischer</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">I grabbed
the strawberry Poptarts from above the fridge and than an IPA from inside of
the fridge. Nothing beats high fructose
corn syrup, beer, after a near chess win.
I opened the package, offered one to Alex, and placed the other on the
counter for a moment. I sipped on my IPA
and sprayed about countering the two knight’s defense to the nearest dirtbag
climber. When I turned to grab my Poptart, I saw crumbs. The crust, the top and the bottom, were
broken off of my Poptart. The dejected ends sat on the counter. Nearby, Alex
happily mashed on the red 40 food coloring and artificial strawberry flavoring
of the middle of my poptart. The middle of the poptart. That's the
best part. He couldn’t take a draw.
Was this why he was such a good climber?
He refused to settle for less than success.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">Every
day, he asked me what I’d climbed. He
wanted me to say I had “sent everything.”
Alex wanted me to succeed like he did. When we first arrived in Bishop, Alex provided
a tick list of routes and boulder problems to prepare me for my spring Yosemite
goals. I climbed harder that winter because
I didn’t want to come to a draw with the rock. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjZ9YownjqMYPbLyICflZ2GoAYWx03HiG8yUmJoWA4I6T9p0t1lkjEBHIsP38B1bEBjuaU4JPX33YbLh-1vxzpQFDNuWbB8w8aMuMteyaenh235pX63-Uw8uLsXxhucpWOOOcMDyc6nIJ/s1600/rock+star+training+5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjZ9YownjqMYPbLyICflZ2GoAYWx03HiG8yUmJoWA4I6T9p0t1lkjEBHIsP38B1bEBjuaU4JPX33YbLh-1vxzpQFDNuWbB8w8aMuMteyaenh235pX63-Uw8uLsXxhucpWOOOcMDyc6nIJ/s320/rock+star+training+5.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">working Excelsior in cold weather in Owens River Gorge</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">Living
together means seeing your housemate stumble to the bathroom in the morning,
hide under their sleeping bag watching True Blood all day, and sometimes
brushing their teeth. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“What
time are you and Kim heading down to Owens tomorrow morning?” Alex asked in
between sets of vigorous tooth brushing. Stacey, Kim, and I used electric sonic
care toothbrushes. Alex preferred a
plastic Colgate. By striving for the same level of well scrubbed cleanliness as
a sonic care, he could also get a serious forearm work out through vigorous
scrubbing. Translation- Dirtbag
toothbrush = trying harder = bigger forearms = easier rock climbing.</span><br />
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<tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfxnzjZtjr2sR6p1IfHw4DC9e6l-chnckIMLZZ5-i4cnd6C1n3wYJtN_uNZKChpNeWnmYEXxUOocHpjEHA7W0JlPSxmCrV9IbHnthGXdKCIuUQzMXYUc3qRnIWfqkZMWm5Dlw51tRPWoVN/s1600/rock+star+training+6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfxnzjZtjr2sR6p1IfHw4DC9e6l-chnckIMLZZ5-i4cnd6C1n3wYJtN_uNZKChpNeWnmYEXxUOocHpjEHA7W0JlPSxmCrV9IbHnthGXdKCIuUQzMXYUc3qRnIWfqkZMWm5Dlw51tRPWoVN/s320/rock+star+training+6.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Climbing on Flux Capicator in Owens River Gorg</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">e</span>
</td></tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“We’re
gonna make breakfast, hang out, and then head down.” I responded through the
whir of my mouth vibrator. I thought about sleeping in with my girlfriend,
waiting for pleasant warm temperatures, and a relaxing day. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“We’ll be
there around 10.” Alex stared down at me
with sudden disapproval. I thought of the tick list he had given me and my Yosemite goals.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“I mean 9,” I added quickly. "What are you gonna do?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“Well,
I’m gonna get up at 7, run for an hour, make my egg scramble breakfast, and get
down there early.” Alex spit into the sink</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> “Wow, that’s motivated,” I walked towards my
bedroom.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">“That’s
cause I’m a "professional climber,” he waved his fingers at me, “unlike
you lifestyle climbers.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">I
slammed my bedroom door in his face. For
five minutes I stared at the door knob trying to think of a witty retort. Nothing came to mind, which made me almost
madder. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> I wanted to be a professional climber and get
paid to be a climber. My mind wandered
away from snappy comebacks and towards Alex’s motivation behind the
comment. Alex never slept in. He never
relaxed. He couldn’t. One day out of 30, he hid beneath his
sleeping bag and watched 30 episodes of True Blood. It was his one respite from
training, from climbing, from traveling, from answering hordes of emails from
random fans, from interviews, from people wanting something for him. Maybe he wanted to be a lifestyle climber and
he said it out of jealousy. Maybe he was
just saying if I wanted to be a professional climber, I had to act like one.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xZy1Vla_nBhAU4zebbTUUJUu4HGRYUZJnGAGljYefTzACfdgeXj_8Xu1sEiYq67JC_N5HHUDcH0SAIToZ5l51YZbE-4MiFo_xNOJh2jhrp0M1_1R3jxHyFEk-y_Nw8NBwe41RZb8roTr/s1600/Rockstar+training.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xZy1Vla_nBhAU4zebbTUUJUu4HGRYUZJnGAGljYefTzACfdgeXj_8Xu1sEiYq67JC_N5HHUDcH0SAIToZ5l51YZbE-4MiFo_xNOJh2jhrp0M1_1R3jxHyFEk-y_Nw8NBwe41RZb8roTr/s1600/Rockstar+training.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Yosemite rematch this spring</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">To a
large degree, I want to be the man who stumbles to the cliff, the man who climbs
22 days in a row with taped fingers, the one who mathematically improves on
climbing. I don’t want to be Alex
Honnold though. Oscar Wilde said, “Be
yourself…everyone else is already taken.”
It’s taken a few months for that thought to settle in. I don't have to be Alex Honnold, I should just follow some of his training advice. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;">I’ve started waking up
earlier, wanting it more, and not eating Poptarts. But more than anything, I've embraced being a lifestyle climber. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xZy1Vla_nBhAU4zebbTUUJUu4HGRYUZJnGAGljYefTzACfdgeXj_8Xu1sEiYq67JC_N5HHUDcH0SAIToZ5l51YZbE-4MiFo_xNOJh2jhrp0M1_1R3jxHyFEk-y_Nw8NBwe41RZb8roTr/s1600/Rockstar+training.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-67680102132129343972011-12-05T22:57:00.000-08:002011-12-06T21:55:05.330-08:00The Jackass and The ZebraI stared into the mirror at the 4 x 6 inch tattoo on my neck. This wouldn’t have happened without Google.<br /><br />My birthday is Tuesday Dec 6. I was born in 1981. This year, I will be thirty. I’ve always felt like a bit of a geriatric. For six months, I used a wheel chair, a walker, and a cane. Actually, I never used a cane; I used a nine iron to support my hobble. My limp got better and my short game improved a ton. I spent a significant amount of time around stroke victims while I was recovering from a climbing accident. My hospital room mate, an old Los Gatos school superintendent named John, was thirty years my senior. When they fused my back, and my ankle, I saw a Los Gatos orthopedist, whose waiting room was filled with geriatrics. The stiff ankle, the fused back, the wear on my body… I’ve felt old for 6 years now. It’s not a pleasant feeling.<br /><br />The Phoenix climbs a technical corner to a difficult crack traverse. A pumping fingers section to overhanging hands follows the crux. I fell all over it this spring. During one lead attempt, I tried to stuff a red alien into a yellow alien spot. Think smashing a square peg into a round hole. Unable to fit the cam in and scared to fall, I threw the piece over my shoulder into the poison oak and waterfall far below. I grabbed the crack, made two moves, realized I could use the red alien but I had just thrown it, and promptly took a monster winger.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhXifbhZjIAvB9JEvP7xBvT0cefAkdv0LRJ3ZdI8-eR7j-jhEatMd5Z75xp1ObtP7lxXfTqpU1w5dyV_7_pG07uQNwLjEIAWCvf3FTaOMysMDeoDDq2sJqvPyZhHEX2TE9r6WJkg_IxFg/s1600/phoenix4.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 347px; height: 521px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhXifbhZjIAvB9JEvP7xBvT0cefAkdv0LRJ3ZdI8-eR7j-jhEatMd5Z75xp1ObtP7lxXfTqpU1w5dyV_7_pG07uQNwLjEIAWCvf3FTaOMysMDeoDDq2sJqvPyZhHEX2TE9r6WJkg_IxFg/s400/phoenix4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682907398953264418" border="0" /></a><br /><br />At Jailhouse, I punted off my mega proj staring at the anchor, 5 times. 5 times. It wore me down. On Washington’s Column, I tried to climb the Quantum Mechanic. Instead, I got scared, I aided, and I generally got worked. Morale was low low low.<br /><br />Everybody’s nice to you on your birthday. It’s a fact. People get gifts on their birthdays, they get called up by long lost friends and distant relatives, and people constantly acquiesce to your demands. Hey, it’s your birthday! According to a Johnson & Johnson study, you are 68.5% more likely to have sex on your birthday. Yahoo! What better way to guarantee having a great day then having a birthday.<br /><br />With a steady feeling of depression kicking in, I decided I needed to cheer myself up, at least for a day. I thought and I thought and I thought about what to do. I Googled how to cheer yourself up. Dance, Party, Smile. There had to be something. While Google searched the interweb for an answer to my depression I checked Facebook. I noticed that it was almost my friend, Alex Evans birthday. Everyone was wishing him happy birthday. He was gonna go on a Happy Birthday climb in Yosemite, have Happy Birthday cake with a group of Camp 4 climbers, and even have hot Happy Birthday sex with his girlfriend. Hundreds of people wished him happy birthday on his Facebook wall. That’s what I needed- a birthday. So I changed my birthday on Facebook.<br /><br />The response was overwhelming. Over a hundred people wished me happy birthday. Alex came up to me and was so surprised- he’s known me for 6 years and never realized that his birthday was the day before mine! Then Casey McTaggart called me, “OMG! We have the same birthday!” It was all so awesome! I forgot about tossing that cam, about punting on the sport proj, and about getting worked on Washington’s Column. For one day, I felt good. What a great feeling. Why couldn’t I feel like this everyday? I decided it’d be a good idea to have another birthday. People would just forgot in a few months right? So, I changed my birthday on Facebook again to 3 months later. I could go for another PARTY!<br /><br />Thirty is a milestone year. The twenties are done. The carefree days of my youth are behind. Think mortgage, marriage, making a career. My first facebook birthday in June was a celebration. My second Facebook birthday in September was a sudden realization of how old I actually was. A geriatric. If I had three birthdays every year, by the time I was 50, I’d be a hundred years old. Reality settled in. All the notes, the phone calls, even the gifts, from my second Facebook birthday just reiterated the fact that I was aging rapidly. I was getting old.<br /><br />There’s hipsters everywhere at Smith Rocks. They come from Portland on the weekends. Tattoos, skinny jeans, and serious attitudes. I joked about all the bad tattoos that the hipsters had. Wouldn’t it be funny to see a hipster with a bad unicorn tattoo? I joked at the crag. Then I Googled bad unicorn tattoos and what did I find? Rambo riding a unicorn! It was so bad it was awesome. This was beyond hipster ironic- this was universally ironic.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbu72SjcHeYQ9ZxMR1kJpLgc8X2MIFU5xXK73DE-e9SLCYwHpI_5R_NPScact-DkmTSRjb93xeB5Au5SEkdadKkMEy5WIq0t33VjfP-TFAqjoxxaNo4CCqJH5tB_RYA3XBBCgW5SzS-WtH/s1600/tattoo4.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 417px; height: 417px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbu72SjcHeYQ9ZxMR1kJpLgc8X2MIFU5xXK73DE-e9SLCYwHpI_5R_NPScact-DkmTSRjb93xeB5Au5SEkdadKkMEy5WIq0t33VjfP-TFAqjoxxaNo4CCqJH5tB_RYA3XBBCgW5SzS-WtH/s400/tattoo4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682907223070019634" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Kate Rutherford, Greg Garretson, and I drank wine, hanging out after a day of climbing at Smith. I showed them the Rambo picture.<br /><br />“I bet we could make that better,” Greg opened up Photoshop. “Enhance the background.”<br />The flames got replaced with a grassy flower filled field.<br /><br />“Put a rainbow behind him,” Kate sipped some Merlot. “He should be shooting something. And a little burst from the end of his gun, like an explosion.”<br /><br />“A laser?” I suggested. Greg clicked away at the image. Rambo had a laser.<br /><br />“How about a rainbow?” Kate said. A few minutes later the image had reached perfection. The best picture of Rambo riding a unicorn shooting a rainbow crossbow ever.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6mBEAqeYlTriTWDztjZq_0lR5MGDPOVkGWX0dX7yOiKDGTVo3KJQovDXaNWVPQJw7EweiFJETsud1y8vPg0I20SikUhBFwcZkVbQI7zNtmJRY8lr5L038gMVg3VTTvZbY6iF-1mHrPmnY/s1600/tattoo3.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 435px; height: 435px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6mBEAqeYlTriTWDztjZq_0lR5MGDPOVkGWX0dX7yOiKDGTVo3KJQovDXaNWVPQJw7EweiFJETsud1y8vPg0I20SikUhBFwcZkVbQI7zNtmJRY8lr5L038gMVg3VTTvZbY6iF-1mHrPmnY/s400/tattoo3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682907156480913522" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I am in constant conflict with myself. I love climbing. Even when I’m throwing cams over my shoulder, punting on the sport proj, or jumaring, rapping, bolting, and hiking by myself. I love it. But there’s days when I don’t feel so young anymore. I look at my peers, the ones who are married, the ones with kids, jobs, and houses that aren’t station wagons. I get jealous. There’s times when I want to permanently remove myself. Destroy the possibility of ever living that lifestyle. Though I want it sometimes, it’s a hard one to move to. It’s easier for me to climb all the time, live on a budget, and travel. You get good at what you practice. Doing the things that make us grow, isn’t easy.<br />What’s more, I wanted to change myself. I wanted to be something more than I was. I didn’t want to blend in with the geriatrics I had spent so much time with. I wanted my youth back. I wanted to stop feeling 60 and start feeling 20 again. I wanted the perfect tattoo; the one that turned the jackass into the zebra.<br /><br />I called a number of tattoo parlors around Smith. I even tried a few places in Portland; I figured the hipster capital would have someone who specialized in unicorn tattoos. I got the same answer from all of them. Expensive. Getting a little youth back doesn’t come cheap. I searched Google for an inexpensive way to get Rambo riding a unicorn on my neck. I found a viable option and I went for it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe99210Ll0zTRNOhyBHu_BAS6idLpdyHAulzm_vXw3zN5kyX2oCBgNYGhS13n60DGPiuBTEALt8Qp3Mdz2b9v8DrxWjm7XrnpkN43KPJoy0_A-N70Y5aQjehtvAdy8dLDbjkkIXSDPnWZv/s1600/tattoo2.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 327px; height: 489px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe99210Ll0zTRNOhyBHu_BAS6idLpdyHAulzm_vXw3zN5kyX2oCBgNYGhS13n60DGPiuBTEALt8Qp3Mdz2b9v8DrxWjm7XrnpkN43KPJoy0_A-N70Y5aQjehtvAdy8dLDbjkkIXSDPnWZv/s400/tattoo2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682907085893394914" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I could hear their whispers from across the gym. I had stopped by the bay after my trip to Smith. A matching pair of hipsters adorned the Berkeley Ironworks lead cave. They had seen my neck tattoo. I could only imagine what they said to each other.<br /><br />“That guy is way more punk than us,” a tat of a crying statue of liberty bounced up and down his skinny shoulder.<br /><br />“Look at that neck ink. What a gangster,” she said. Roses marked the back of her hands and tattoed stars floated behind her ears. “I bet he totally passed the lead test.”<br /><br />I felt bad ass. I stopped by Mortar Rock and tore my tips apart on Nat’s Traverse, falling at the end. Lucho, my long time climbing friend from San Francisco, came out with me. “That tattoo does make you look like a gangster.” Lucho never says stuff like that. Though, I kept falling off the end of the problem, I got a little more swagger.<br /><br />The feelings lasted about a day, maybe a day and a half. Then I started to feel silly. I had a square 4 x 6 inch tattoo of Rambo riding a unicorn on my neck. What the fuck? What was I thinking? A neck tattoo in this recession economy, where the job market is tight, would squash my chances for future employment. Did I really want to eliminate the possibility of entering the rat race- a chance at a house and stability?<br /><br />I stood staring in the mirror. I scratched at my neck hard, rubbing the skin red. Blue flakes fell into the sink. Google found my only affordable tattoo option. A company in China or Milwaukee or somewhere in between made temporary tattoos for a margin of the price. My nails tore at the flesh and the flakes floated into the sink. I thought of the ephemeralness of it all. Like the feeling of specialness from changing my Facebook birthday, the tattoo tough guy feelings wouldn’t last. I lacked the sincerity to be a true gangster. I couldn’t change my birthday every day. The feelings woud only last for so long. I'd need something more sustainable.<br /><br />Part of growing older is learning to be comfortable with yourself, a challenge I feel on a regular basis. It’s 11pm on Dec 5. It’s almost my birthday. I’m gonna wake up tomorrow morning, have something to eat, and then go climbing. I’ll be 30. Maybe I’ll boulder at the Buttermilks, maybe I’ll climb some routes in Owens River Gorge. I’ll spend a little bit of time looking for a place to rent for the winter in Bishop. The house might happen, it might not. I’ll work a little, hang out with friends. I’ll try not to worry too much about growing up or staying young about changing my birthday on Facebook or getting a tattoo. I’ll just try to be something between a jackass and a zebra. I’ll just try and be myself for a little while.Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-4189353620675465242011-11-28T20:27:00.000-08:002011-11-29T10:02:17.648-08:00Living the DreamCold gravel crunched beneath my feet. The air bit my lips. Smoke emerged when I exhaled. I used the bathroom and scrambled back to my sleeping bag, my car, my home. It wasn’t raining yet. Maybe there would be climbing when the sun rose and warmed the park.<br /><br />An hour later, I heard the familiar tapping on the glass. Drip drip drop. I groaned. I tried to go back to sleep. By 8 all the rocks in Smith were wet. By 9, the ground under the trees was too. I sat up in the back of my Saturn station wagon and stared. There would be no climbing today. I would sit and stare out the car window all day, wishing it was nice outside, wishing I was climbing, maybe even wishing I had a normal job with a house, a girlfriend, and a real life. Drip drip drop. But that’s only wishing. Right now, I am living out of my car, traveling wherever I want with no responsibilities. I am living the dream. Drip drip drop. There were days when I wish the dream would end.<br /><br />I should have known I was out of my element when I stopped just north of Shasta. I tried to pump my own gas. The attendant stopped me immediately, assuring me that it was his job to fill my gas tank. “That’s why they pay me the big bucks,” he said as put $38.00 of regular unleaded into the tank. I gave him a look of pure Californian suspicion. Why was the gas cheaper than in Cali? Why was he really filling my tank? Who were these sneaky sneaky Oregonians with their half truths?<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Gh_M41r4Qm4aMTzI4cRxivjfvKrWIAexISSkJAaAtJI757Y2jP0b2pKOnKp2BiNk9rJLMvdAU-uZsGKsdimLA6qXqWMsO8NXVe6Rd1k4Ke3-PWvTMcygaSXsc8v9kgerVIjtvCglo_wg/s1600/park.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 388px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Gh_M41r4Qm4aMTzI4cRxivjfvKrWIAexISSkJAaAtJI757Y2jP0b2pKOnKp2BiNk9rJLMvdAU-uZsGKsdimLA6qXqWMsO8NXVe6Rd1k4Ke3-PWvTMcygaSXsc8v9kgerVIjtvCglo_wg/s400/park.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680282630237796658" border="0" /></a><br />Smith<br /><br />“I love this climb. You can just scamper up it,” Darryn said as she lowered down from Wedding Day, a 5.10b arête at the Dihedrals. I crimped through the classic climb, grunting, thrutching and desperately fighting my way to the anchors. I pulled out every trick in the book. I didn’t come close to “scampering.” As I lowered, I looked at the route next to it, a short 5.12a called Flat Earth. “It’s a stroll,” said super local, Ian Caldwell as he sunk a mono and drop knee back stepped through the crux. It’s a local sandbag, I thought to myself.<br /><br />The climbing in Smith is tuff. Alan Watts, established many of the routes on rappel. Bolting the chossy faces from the top down revolutionized American rock climbing. By climbing on preplaced gear, bolts, the climbing standards rose quickly. “Sport climbing” arrived in the United States. The standards of the 80s were far different than those of today. The bolts are miles apart by today’s standards. It’s not sport climbing in Smith. It’s 80s face climbing. And it’s SCARY.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfNnPdetcC_EMuCDTlB0K7o4zip4FtPzocqPXnrXdcHOMI-IWj1RSFa1b9xojOP6-6_9J3_PnJ0fBJ5I4c_hEyjRoJjfXijbXYivGjgL9Stysg_jFoiJBazwb0l1Ef2SzsjzWqkuDVHLEh/s1600/IMG_9767.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 336px; height: 494px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfNnPdetcC_EMuCDTlB0K7o4zip4FtPzocqPXnrXdcHOMI-IWj1RSFa1b9xojOP6-6_9J3_PnJ0fBJ5I4c_hEyjRoJjfXijbXYivGjgL9Stysg_jFoiJBazwb0l1Ef2SzsjzWqkuDVHLEh/s400/IMG_9767.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680272902090484962" border="0" /></a><br />10 Gallon buckets- a 35 meter 5.10c or a multi-pitch cluster fuck<br /><br />I can’t crimp. I can’t high step. I get terrified when I’m ½ an inch off the ground and more than ¼ an inch away from a bolt. There were a hundred reasons why the climbing in Smith would be especially hard for me- I took everyone as a reason to go. It’s easy to get better at things you’re already good at but working your weaknesses- that will make you a better climber.<br /><br />The Full Heinous climbs a steep gently overhanging section of the Dihedrals area at Smith. The route originally had 3 bolts and required widgets to protect. Watts retrobolted the route and placed twice as many bolts! Twice as many! That’s incredible- until you realize how far apart the bolts still are. To stick clip the first bolt, you need to stand on someone’s shoulders with a stick clip.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8jntGKFGHqlb9x2Xs0meKjB6fQKv7NnlExRcPRSl20CKHemfmVkWMHmwhPJh0qJQRNdyvX8fQxVhMhrs0xdjINe8u_m_Ky1g3ac6idWFCrLWke3iFp0bRScewXkjLnfWp4vXgdntD__rx/s1600/photo2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 360px; height: 481px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8jntGKFGHqlb9x2Xs0meKjB6fQKv7NnlExRcPRSl20CKHemfmVkWMHmwhPJh0qJQRNdyvX8fQxVhMhrs0xdjINe8u_m_Ky1g3ac6idWFCrLWke3iFp0bRScewXkjLnfWp4vXgdntD__rx/s400/photo2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680273552185302930" border="0" /></a><br /><br />What's that guy doing? Stick clipping on a route? OMG!Smith Rocks!<br /><br />I found an extendable pole in the boulders of Camp 4. Duct tape held two brushes to the metal telescoping pole. I ripped the tape off, grabbed some supplies, and with my own duct tape, created a Stick clip. This would surely get me up any route I wanted to try in Smith. That’s what I thought when I showed up.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXw7616r_NtsxuOjDO8I7CRcbFo4G9qDgaEt1zkkZQhSNxFdkH3wxeX5R4w2SykjghyphenhyphenaJByXa0Ee1o6w7gpHBdomm0fctlBnD1HrN0kB5nTD36W6sZxI8yQMfNqyOC4Rr8MfCumVf69-G/s1600/gun+slinger.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 344px; height: 460px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXw7616r_NtsxuOjDO8I7CRcbFo4G9qDgaEt1zkkZQhSNxFdkH3wxeX5R4w2SykjghyphenhyphenaJByXa0Ee1o6w7gpHBdomm0fctlBnD1HrN0kB5nTD36W6sZxI8yQMfNqyOC4Rr8MfCumVf69-G/s400/gun+slinger.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680272897707193426" border="0" /></a><br />Ian Yeardin getting out his thermal sensor.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkQknyctr-875ZHfVCVPVVya63S61lZppIwxm5SD-WBnY_A3cMA3mv8JdDcuJMRgMy9z0UoLoaTuzboR4p32Td4twI-Yz8xSeQ_ni_vqdC_REeimnACAsz6PyOpXzL3QW3qwuZvBW5SYn/s1600/gun+control.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 328px; height: 438px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkQknyctr-875ZHfVCVPVVya63S61lZppIwxm5SD-WBnY_A3cMA3mv8JdDcuJMRgMy9z0UoLoaTuzboR4p32Td4twI-Yz8xSeQ_ni_vqdC_REeimnACAsz6PyOpXzL3QW3qwuZvBW5SYn/s400/gun+control.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680270995419490306" border="0" /></a><br />Perfect temps for sending the mega slab To Bolt or Not to Be.<br /><br />Perhaps it was his half Billy Ray Cyrus, half George Michaels good looks. Maybe it was the stained long underwear he wore under his filthy shorts. “It’s like you said James,” a cloud of dust hung around Portlandianer Alex Baker. “You got to look good to climb good.” The mullet, the dirty costume, the 5 day old beard, and the dirty costume, somehow got Alex a send of Vicious Fish, a difficult 5.13c arête at the Morning Glory Wall. It also got him a girlfriend. Weird. Baker was also on his way to get a job at Black Diamond in Salt Lake City. Oregon is a strange place with strange people. While Baker was an out of the ordinary bone crusher, the weirdest people were the “Super Locals.”<br /><br />“Im glad I can climb harder so I can climb easier routes,” said Mark Postel, a tall, lanky Smith Rocks climber of over a decade. “A lot of the easier routes aren’t that well bolted and often are quite hard.”<br /><br />Located directly across from the Smith Rocks campground, the Postel’s humble abode is as close as you can get to Smith Rocks without tripping. The small building Postel called home could barely contain the big man. Postel refuses to admit he’s six foot two inches. “I’m 5’14”. Postel works as a guide in Nepal or Patagonia or Anartica- wherever the yak riding Sherpas with Britney Spears ring tones on their fake iPhones live. He returned from dragging a couple clients to some mountain called ImmaDaBomb to hike all the routes on the front side of Smith Rocks. There’s people out there who are close to living the dream. They own houses and climb at the rocks outside their house. They are super locals, and Postel is one.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhryZOgRp0YijlPcYhD-ALXkUxXz-3gccy00YBpgnruS7Mi1PUDaGXsqr7BtbbGfa5Lit52lB7bFy4T5-S8doytcetPxDOqHJCMtGEwGoPBI4Grs-_9tW47iBXZB0WBMnr_Pz319HkeXIB/s1600/photo.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 328px; height: 438px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhryZOgRp0YijlPcYhD-ALXkUxXz-3gccy00YBpgnruS7Mi1PUDaGXsqr7BtbbGfa5Lit52lB7bFy4T5-S8doytcetPxDOqHJCMtGEwGoPBI4Grs-_9tW47iBXZB0WBMnr_Pz319HkeXIB/s400/photo.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680273550159189538" border="0" /></a><br />Postel service at the Dihedrals<br /><br />Max shaved chocolate into a mug ¾ full of hot water. By the time he added the bourbon, the hot liquid almost boiled over. He played the new Chromeo album, placing his iPhone into a cup so that the sound was amplified through his home, a Toyota Previa vansion. Max had finally made it.<br /><br />“When the dashboard battery light comes on, it might not be your battery,” Max called me from Goldendale Washington, a small town somewhere between Leavenworth and Smith. “It could be your alternator. Did you know that your car won’t drive without it?”<br /><br />Max walked to the library and spent most of the day trying to find something to do while he waited for a new alternator to arrive in Goldendale. That’s called living the dream. After a day’s delay and a few hundred bucks, Max arrived in Smith. He spent most of his five day stint getting flash pumped and then leaving to find some boulders. Did you know that there are a number of boulder problems at Smith? I didn’t. Nor did I care. Max did. And he cared enough to climb them, dragging me out to a surprisingly cool chunk of rock below the campground. Though Max has climbed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, climbed El Capitan, established new free routes in Alaska, he is primarily a boulderer at heart. Not only did Max crush some V gnar, but he put on a rope and fought his way up the classic Chain Reaction, falling at the redpoint crux a number of times. On his last day before leaving for a business trip to Japan, Max stuck the dyno at the top of the route. Boom!<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGcJYOG8MZG2DFMPctpV853PNzy17RweIIw2Royy-TCqsZmohWRgFip4SG-jAyMKhEtMGUjW5l4IiSkMfnKTOqERQL5iBRdIMuvBCe_Hq-WllCNf2ZFAU3l1Fd2wkpOFFU8pAxAtksygj/s1600/Max.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 328px; height: 438px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGcJYOG8MZG2DFMPctpV853PNzy17RweIIw2Royy-TCqsZmohWRgFip4SG-jAyMKhEtMGUjW5l4IiSkMfnKTOqERQL5iBRdIMuvBCe_Hq-WllCNf2ZFAU3l1Fd2wkpOFFU8pAxAtksygj/s400/Max.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680273545787855970" border="0" /></a><br />Max bouldering at 11pm on the tuff below the Campground Bivy at Smith Rocks<br /><br />I climbed towards the first bolt. My legs shook for 15 minutes as I stared down the crimps to the first bolt. If I could only make it there, I could be safe. The exposure was overwhelming. Panic. Panic. Panic had set in. I over gripped then when I couldn’t hold on any longer, I fell. I plummeted a solid 12 inches to the ground. It was an enormous fall. I thought I was sport climbing. I tried to clip the first bolt but my stick wouldn’t reach. The bolt was too high for my stick clip. I didn’t need a stick clip- I needed a rope gun. Thank God Kate was around.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgG50nMU9euh_zIPhFUIuJqJ4QDQyBgMA0lGrlgu-VbTpLX3doJCRZChsFbYvMEwM-UjZNBp3Q8AOWiJRRrDGAyWPnrqtALsvLCawMThtUldETxLfGvsCzCpyggY2wD_Xqhi7Dgj29wsw/s1600/Kate.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 328px; height: 438px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgG50nMU9euh_zIPhFUIuJqJ4QDQyBgMA0lGrlgu-VbTpLX3doJCRZChsFbYvMEwM-UjZNBp3Q8AOWiJRRrDGAyWPnrqtALsvLCawMThtUldETxLfGvsCzCpyggY2wD_Xqhi7Dgj29wsw/s400/Kate.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680272912575943922" border="0" /></a><br />Kate Rutherford climbs good cause she looks good. Kate advises you to wear pastel puff jackets for winter 2012.<br /><br />Kate Rutherford is quiet. I met her like 7 or 8 years ago in Indian Creek. She was atypically clean for Indian Creek. I didn’t know it then, but now I do. It wasn’t abnormal. Kate always manages to look put together. It’s impressive. I’m not sure how she pulls it off but she does. It probably comes from her well put together life. Kate works as a part time jeweler, part time Patagonia Ambassador, and full time bone crusher. She lives most of the year with her boyfriend, Mikey Schaefer, inside a black Sprinter, a regular McVansion. She’s living the dream. While at Smith, she totally took advantage of the look good climb good phenomenon. She hiked The Full Heinous, Darkness at Noon, Doritos, and a ton of other “moderate” 5.12 “warm-ups.” She wasn’t the only one hiking at the sport crag.<br /><br />“Someone’s on the proj Kate,” from the Morning Glory Wall, I watched a pink shirt dance up the runout climbing of the Full Heinous, a 5.12cR route at the Dihedrals. When I walked over, I saw a bespectacled man and a couple of young kids. The dad seemed intent on toproping the Full Heinous all day. I groaned, wondering who had put the rope up for this dad. I looked around. Kid, kid, fat parent, kid. It wasn’t making sense. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a pink shirt bursting from beneath a skinny 12 year olds oversized down jacket.<br /><br />I stared at him. A few minutes of conversation revealed the culprit. Drew Ruana onsighted Kate and I’s project as a warm up. My ego was the Hindenberg. Crashing. Burning. No Survivors.<br /><br />“Tell that kid of yours to stop flashing my projects,” I said to his dad, hoping to salvage some of my destroyed dignity.<br /><br />“He's been doing that to me since he was 9...” said Rudy, a bridge architect in Seattle who was well aware of the reality of having a young crusher around. “I took away his playstation, just to be a dick!”<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1wNn-U5YOL89ZIKoEoY3sbA0olIUwSNm_97KFyIn8tNC8L06Kr6uzl9SHpK-Cm4w7LdrYvzpwjj4sUr7jGyBRzRXe9RS7s05srizwFufeZWRfpt5B2UFOnhbYxRKsiLAz4RWjWauVXfr/s1600/Drew.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 328px; height: 438px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1wNn-U5YOL89ZIKoEoY3sbA0olIUwSNm_97KFyIn8tNC8L06Kr6uzl9SHpK-Cm4w7LdrYvzpwjj4sUr7jGyBRzRXe9RS7s05srizwFufeZWRfpt5B2UFOnhbYxRKsiLAz4RWjWauVXfr/s400/Drew.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680270987673763698" border="0" /></a><br />This 12 year old Seattlelite will crush your proj and act like a gangster.<br /><br />I tried to ignore my defeated attitude and went up the route. One move before<br />a bolt, high on the wall, I fell, whipping well past the first set of chains. Yup. Smith is scary. Yup. Little kids send your projects. Yup. Living the dreams means living with a constantly broken ego.<br /><br />This summer I spent a month in Rifle, which was a fun place. The limestone there is ok. There’s a large concentration of good or okay routes, which makes the 2 mile canyon pretty good as a sport climbing destination. A few years ago, I went to the Red River Gorge for 23 days in November. The climbing was fun but robotic. I don’t remember any different routes there. There was a lot of sandstone, the south east culture is super fun, but that place- meh. Red Rocks, Mesquite, Sonora, Rumney, little crags like Little Si, Chekamus, Trinity Aretes…meh. Smith may be the best sport climbing in the United States. The style of climbing there, vertical, crimpy rock, isn’t in vogue though and even the locals don’t take advantage of the offensively large amount of basalt in the gorge.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAdrvl3Si3HEOXmyS4lnuz_fo02sr9ydLRi0ntfmvsAEGg5ta4QCRfbsbD_9JsvBktttPB8BMWvBOscX0vUCAYjpnXS9vBpMhwrkiBAgx4wkjOHDgh-kwA8OLHbf6Z9ZAbVSHcP4RvGyt/s1600/wardance.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 334px; height: 446px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAdrvl3Si3HEOXmyS4lnuz_fo02sr9ydLRi0ntfmvsAEGg5ta4QCRfbsbD_9JsvBktttPB8BMWvBOscX0vUCAYjpnXS9vBpMhwrkiBAgx4wkjOHDgh-kwA8OLHbf6Z9ZAbVSHcP4RvGyt/s400/wardance.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680277768496980034" border="0" /></a><br />An Upper Gorge classic Wardance- 5.12a. My ass hurt the next day from stemming so much.<br /><br />“Chicken pot pie- my three favorite things.” Greg Garretson. I met Greg in the Red a few years ago. The brief encounter ended up turning into a lucrative opportunity when Garretson hooked me up with an amazing job.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRy0w-SJh8pIpKNYwCnq_2ire79KmJlgcjpfidWnwKKxNlqwHX8Bip7KoVz6ISGBAi33ajLb16bFp41q6Oz63Ru9kKWUbua_M1mcjihWT3-GfmNOnaEZd7g_quM8VVCca4IL0XVOocxFSD/s1600/Smith+Rocks.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 312px; height: 487px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRy0w-SJh8pIpKNYwCnq_2ire79KmJlgcjpfidWnwKKxNlqwHX8Bip7KoVz6ISGBAi33ajLb16bFp41q6Oz63Ru9kKWUbua_M1mcjihWT3-GfmNOnaEZd7g_quM8VVCca4IL0XVOocxFSD/s400/Smith+Rocks.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680273725250966562" border="0" /></a><br />The production poster for the upcoming movie. I get credit on it!<br /><br />The movie closed the entire Morning Glory crag, 5 Gallon Buckets, and many of the best climbs on the front side of Smith Rocks. Disney productions hired Mario Lopez and Flipper’s grandson son, a dolphin named Flopper, to star in River Dolphin, the story of a retarded football player and his redemption with a smart alec river Dolphin. The movie gave me an opportunity to cash in on some costume designs. Mario Lopez got a nice Ducks shirt with a fake string of saliva on it. Boy, Lopez looked better than when he did the Slater Dance.<br /><br /><iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/iPqO-_CjIOU" allowfullscreen="" width="420" frameborder="0" height="315"></iframe><br /><br />I put glitter around Flopper’s blow hole. That’s right. Lots and lots of glitter.<br /><br />Disney will be releasing the movie later this spring. I’m looking forward to its arrival. Maybe I’ll get more costume designing jobs out of the production. That’d be sweet!<br /><br />Five or maybe six years ago, Drew “The Iceman” Rollins set a toprope on Dreamin for me. The crux of the route is low and well protected but the run out 80 degree wall above keeps away the crowds. I tried for a minute to stick clip the first bolt. Then I tried the initial moves. Then I figured out how to clip the bolt. With a few weeks of tuff under my feet, I monoed and grab the pockets just right, surmounting the roof and heading up the long section technical section. I tried not to be scared but I was. The park was quiet. I felt alone between the bolts. It was a Wednesday or Friday or maybe even a Monday afternoon. I don’t know. I was just focusing on the rock climbing. I was living the dream.<br /><br />My fingers numbed out below the roof. I fought through the stemming in the middle to the redpoint crux at the pen ultimate bolt. High on the red wall of Kings Of Rap, I crimped a hold and locked off to grab a small pocket. I couldn’t feel anything and fell.<br /><br />My next try, I wore a buff, another shirt, I put hand warmers in my chalk bag, I ran to the bathroom and back to warm up, and I sprinted through the intial difficulties, ignoring the pump and fighting the biting cold. I was successful.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN6cCGOLtYojWEQOVXBDyRV78_7pzjggEQfbzRsVM82q5M2BVna-vBnIS2lHEVyar2sRkgXtUpunJd8vrVRm7_hs635e4meNE5H0JZC1jcvdeJvFjqr7UqxRqtwtEpz5mYBNCN0vdG9mNB/s1600/deer.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 328px; height: 438px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN6cCGOLtYojWEQOVXBDyRV78_7pzjggEQfbzRsVM82q5M2BVna-vBnIS2lHEVyar2sRkgXtUpunJd8vrVRm7_hs635e4meNE5H0JZC1jcvdeJvFjqr7UqxRqtwtEpz5mYBNCN0vdG9mNB/s400/deer.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680270983702310946" border="0" /></a><br />Even the deer look cold.<br /><br />That night, it snowed three inches. Snow covered the car. I woke up two, three, maybe four times during the night because the cold froze my nose and lips, the parts of my body not buried into my sleeping bag. The sun rose eventually. The snow stayed. It was time for me to leave.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWrL3_9N3nsFbwOCbcDNJF_WZm2pupf-wz_JuOSa2AjU8VMEm_6L4NLm6nYY6ApvE3lVl1XPsZ1W2uSUKWkKkT9po1DPACz-KGngI6IgMjW14jrZj1AHvjVXz3jqYkthbkXfhSVB-GgC0/s1600/Smith+Rocks+photo.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 377px; height: 280px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWrL3_9N3nsFbwOCbcDNJF_WZm2pupf-wz_JuOSa2AjU8VMEm_6L4NLm6nYY6ApvE3lVl1XPsZ1W2uSUKWkKkT9po1DPACz-KGngI6IgMjW14jrZj1AHvjVXz3jqYkthbkXfhSVB-GgC0/s400/Smith+Rocks+photo.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5680277774184312946" border="0" /></a><br />A few hours after I left<br /><br />I began driving slowly, very slowly down the 97 south towards warmer and better weather. A semi, a chevy van, a pick-up, were all on the side of the road. I focused on the ice and keeping the Saturn on the road. Kate sent me a message that the crags were sunny by the afternoon. I wondered why I left. I wondered if I should just turn around. I wondered mostly what part of living the dream this was.Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-86815028711253846512011-10-26T21:24:00.000-07:002011-10-27T21:56:05.228-07:00Quantum Man -5.13a Grade IV.The first ascent of the Quantum Man (Quantum Mechanic to Astroman via the Quantum Leap variation) was made in October of 2011 by myself and Madeline Sorkin with a couple of falls and returns to no hands ledges. The first free ascent was made later in the month by myself and Ben Ditto. Neither climber fell that day with Ditto making an impressive flash ascent. I am hoping to climb the route out the roofs in the longer days of spring. <br /><br />The first pitch follows the initial climbing on Astro-man to the two bolt belay and then cuts across a slab to the base of a widening splitter. Delicate face traversing and lots of rope drag make the 5.8 moves to the crack feel difficult. A few finger size pieces will make a natural gear belay. 200’<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQfUuKytSfcb0fXZZFz7QU-QOVTl0A_L83g7bczE_pMLcobeb80M9C4faygPK2FE4yc1ft58N9Ry8sTMWB_5VSmwYbk-uUfLIXZ72vY_luHwW97IESzzskio8PFRO8ZF_K88jSAPeaRPyy/s1600/photo.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQfUuKytSfcb0fXZZFz7QU-QOVTl0A_L83g7bczE_pMLcobeb80M9C4faygPK2FE4yc1ft58N9Ry8sTMWB_5VSmwYbk-uUfLIXZ72vY_luHwW97IESzzskio8PFRO8ZF_K88jSAPeaRPyy/s400/photo.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668027468738399314" /></a><br /><br />Off a gear anchor, the crack widens from a section of difficult big fingers to thin hands to full on offwidth. Reaching the top of the crack is a forty foot horizontal roof. An enormous granite manta ray hangs at the beginning of the roof. After clipping a long sling to the bolts at the top of Terminal Research (5.11c), it is possible to undercling the manta ray feature. A big hands piece then a fist piece can be placed behind the flake. If this piece of rock came off it would seriously jeopardize team safety as the belay is directly below it. Undercling left to better rock. Catch a small break by a flake keystoned in the undercling and then fight leftward. This is not an undercling. It’s a Thundercling! Place a 4 camalot, a 5 camalot and then a 6 camalot. Two bolts protect the final moves. It is easier to clip the first bolt when it is behind you. Moving to the next bolt requires an interesting, though not difficult kneebar move. A few moves of 5.10 liebacking take you to a two bolt anchor. A 60 meter rope will reach to the ground from here. The pitch is 5.13a though the rating comes from the difficulty in placing the large gear and the offensive pump. Some might call it "athletic 12c." It It is difficult to follow and tagging out the gear at the Terminal Research anchor is advisable as it takes some weight off. It's hard to clean the gear- try the pink point tuff stuff. 120’<br /><br />A few wide moves leads to a hanging rock and a small roof encounter. A finger to hands to fingers crack allows passage on the right side of the hanging rock. A short 5.11c footless 1 camalot hands traverse across the top of the rock leads to the next belay. <br /><br />Belay off a two camalot, a solid bolt and a quarter incher at the stance. 40’<br />A series of detached pillars lead to a corner, which is often wet. Place two blue alien size pieces then layback the fin of the corner to a couple of pin scars and a large flake at 5.12. A 3 camalot fits in at the base of the flake. Climb to the top of the flake and clip a manky pin. Either down climb and make a reachy traverse right on delicate feet or continue up to a steep hand crack, a couple funky chimney style moves and the tree out right. Either way is 5.11. Belay at a two bolt anchor by the tree. 100’<br /><br />Follow a finger crack up and then traverse right through delicate face holds at 5.11c. Climb the corner with care of loose rock at 5.11. The original Quantum Mechanic traverses right on orange rock. The Quantum Leap variation continues in the corner. A belay stance rests below a steep corner. There are 3 solid bolts at the belay. A 70 meter rope just makes it to the top of Planck’s Constant, the Thundercling. 100’<br /><br />A steep fingers section followed by a wide block marks the initial difficulties of the next 5.11 pitch. Climb both sides of a large block, clip a bolt, then make some steep layback moves up a corner with good feet. A two bolt anchor should be drilled on the left arête to make a solid stance but instead continue climbing the amazing corner to a hanging two bolt aid anchor. 90’<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEcu54xQOj4FB5uNiaU4qN2PU-6sp4YzDAg-Q69QvZ2b1zSyc7V8j5vl4tfsC2ZeAjIaudnuhhJ1_aEAzUsPZriE6YnU1pnfpODTmq8yRInCIlzUsjN7dtCeHR_aLYeg5_ce4FCLI3gg3/s1600/photo2.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEcu54xQOj4FB5uNiaU4qN2PU-6sp4YzDAg-Q69QvZ2b1zSyc7V8j5vl4tfsC2ZeAjIaudnuhhJ1_aEAzUsPZriE6YnU1pnfpODTmq8yRInCIlzUsjN7dtCeHR_aLYeg5_ce4FCLI3gg3/s400/photo2.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668033635280921378" /></a><br />The overhanging hand crack of the Quantum Leap pitch<br /><br />The Quantum Leap pitch follows a steep 5.11+ hands pitch off the hanging belay. Stay left and be careful not to place a cam at the lip of the crack- your rope might get stuck behind it. After the hands section, continue up to a large ledge. Clip a bolt off a swaying pillar, gaston, cross and then campus to the arête doing a v3 boulder problem. Mantle and place a green alien behind a flake at head height. Traverse left and then up on dirty terrain placing another finger size piece. Good news is that you’re at Hotel California. This is a good bivy for two with no need for a ledge120’<br />Head up and then left on 5.8 terrain being careful of dirt and loose rock to a two bolt anchor. From here, an easy downclimb can be made to the base of the changing corners pitch on Astroman or the route can continue up the 5 roof pitches of the full Quantum Mechanic.<br /><br />A double set of cams from blue alien to 2 camalot will suffice. Include a 3, 3.5, 4, 5, and 6 for Planck’s Constant. Rappeling from Hotel California requires two ropes, directionals, and there will be a lot of rope drag. It is possible though. <br />Much thanks to Tim Derohen, John Schmid, Todd Bartlow, Jake Whittaker, James Selvidge and Rob Miller for the belays, beta and support.Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2200206370172559943.post-23910300068914393832011-09-19T11:37:00.000-07:002011-09-19T12:16:17.605-07:00Ghosts, Magic and ScienceLocated an hour east of Seattle, Index Washington sits on the North Fork of the Skykomish River, just above its confluence with the main channel of the Skykomish a small river that the passing train crosses over on its way across the north Cascades. The 150 inhabitants live in the woods by the river and wake to the sights of Mount Index, Mount Baring and the vertical granite of the Upper Town Wall. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNlKRoWRQv5OXmrF2SuD_tnJadlZK1-uUjnDD58GijR-0axJCbvTDLbojLhyw5tpqLd3q7L-qo1mygbleXbsz9GvhIPujRoEyXgya07L_SArBn8QL018UmHmpYR5J62oOXrIYPqLLtQnQ/s1600/309129_985648540328_6705292_44320835_1463798570_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNlKRoWRQv5OXmrF2SuD_tnJadlZK1-uUjnDD58GijR-0axJCbvTDLbojLhyw5tpqLd3q7L-qo1mygbleXbsz9GvhIPujRoEyXgya07L_SArBn8QL018UmHmpYR5J62oOXrIYPqLLtQnQ/s400/309129_985648540328_6705292_44320835_1463798570_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654150755826993714" /></a><br /><br />On Sunday mornings, bells ring in the town church. Some of the residents are god fearing people. Some residents are pagans with pentacles, five-pointed stars contained within a circle. The five points of the star represent the four classic elements. The pagans believe in a fifth element as well. The little town in the mountains hosts a variety of beliefs. Stories exist of ghosts, of magic and of science. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FCRXz-2kfhQiXL99c_eG3ApBvYe9QQKawLcGj9LCVLeXJRQXAJPHr_nh1m32vS4wW33U4ImhY1MznoWhqxDQj4IzV4pGWoBOpzeDPXMNCe57bmlx1Db_c-YWWiOZnYJj3xSotcxcgfWK/s1600/310843_979052084678_6705292_44250243_5871901_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FCRXz-2kfhQiXL99c_eG3ApBvYe9QQKawLcGj9LCVLeXJRQXAJPHr_nh1m32vS4wW33U4ImhY1MznoWhqxDQj4IzV4pGWoBOpzeDPXMNCe57bmlx1Db_c-YWWiOZnYJj3xSotcxcgfWK/s400/310843_979052084678_6705292_44250243_5871901_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654146739267806706" /></a><br /><br />Index climbing involves blue collar science. The 80 degree slabs involve boulder problems between no hands rests. The routes feel extremely sandbagged. Climbing in good conditions in Index is rare. Summer is hot with the Lower and Upper Town Walls in the sun. Winters are rainy and there are few steep routes to climb on. Sometimes in the fall, when the clouds sit just right, Index can be perfect. That’s the magic time in Index and that’s when everything gets sent. <br /><br />In 1984 the Department of Natural Resources granted the Robbins Company, whose equipment helped dig the chunnel between Great Britain and France, the right to test mine in Index. Using a Mobile Miner, an enormous digging machine, the company bore a 12’ x 21’ by 278’ tunnel in the wall and removed 3,000 cubic yards of material. Local climbers argued against the heavy machining and the Robbins Company voluntarily ceased their digging, allowing for the University of Washington Gravity Lab to use the tunnel at the Country climbing crag for research. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8HLUzLOJVUjTddlhHVP39Z2wxFtA8T0u_V_5tO4Y4nWg44by8SudR0yMU8alrWq_f7bbyyP-_SHYQcT0h26wiCy6DP5rE7updoHLgFlk4LoYdPYHDL6AepHQFegdKDOtThDSDC48o9PAr/s1600/303509_976517803398_6705292_44220738_557696382_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8HLUzLOJVUjTddlhHVP39Z2wxFtA8T0u_V_5tO4Y4nWg44by8SudR0yMU8alrWq_f7bbyyP-_SHYQcT0h26wiCy6DP5rE7updoHLgFlk4LoYdPYHDL6AepHQFegdKDOtThDSDC48o9PAr/s400/303509_976517803398_6705292_44220738_557696382_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654146735939808258" /></a><br /><br />The fifth force may exist. Elementary particles interact with each other through four different forces: gravity, electromagnetism and strong and weak interaction- known as “strong” and “weak nuclear force” respectively. Tests on gravitational constant have been recorded in a deep borehole in the Greenland ice sheet, an Australian mine shaft and onboard the USS Dolphin submarine while it was deeply submerged. These tests search for discrepancies between the estimated and the actual forces, for the existence of a fifth force. Being close to a known large mass allows for a constant in the tests. The University of Washington Gravity Lab used the tunnel in Index to search for the fifth force. Scientists invent magic.<br /><br />The vertical granite of the 600 foot Upper Town Wall hosts a number of quality free climbs. The Davis-Holland, the easiest route on the formation at 5.10b, follows a crack line on the west face. Next door is Rise and Fall, followed by Green Dragon, Town Crier and a host of other “5.12” routes. I hiked to the top of the Town Wall with a seventy meter rope and dropped it down the face. Using two mini-traxions, I rappelled down seventy meters and then climbed back up using the mini-traxions to arrest my falls. Being alone on the wall, working through the tech nine climbing of Rise and Fall, was one of the best experiences I’ve had in awhile. I used to free solo longer routes a lot. Working the route, along on the wall gave me a lot of the same feelings. I enjoyed the solo time.<br /><br />The local hardmen of Index are an interesting crew. Andrew Philbin’s mom belays him occasionally and almost always on his hardest sends. When Andrew projected the tech-nine arête Amandala (5.13c) at the Lower town Wall, his mom belayed him on the rig. With encouragement from his mommy, Andrew sent and earned notoriety in the Washington climbing community for his ascent of the “Mom”dala. Andrew’s mom believes in him.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5krhUpbrlt-x4VjkkeyE3JXgQbrOWZgkBEUsTbYHVsu4aPwzLxB94buq4WHBZycLzAaRNPJOB-eVY6iH3fYlSDDjG0PUDvZ1tOSx8j0j9aboPJRMKyp-lTXXf9fEt6AlFxBYKCVZ-N7r/s1600/293666_979052443958_6705292_44250247_1275418749_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5krhUpbrlt-x4VjkkeyE3JXgQbrOWZgkBEUsTbYHVsu4aPwzLxB94buq4WHBZycLzAaRNPJOB-eVY6iH3fYlSDDjG0PUDvZ1tOSx8j0j9aboPJRMKyp-lTXXf9fEt6AlFxBYKCVZ-N7r/s400/293666_979052443958_6705292_44250247_1275418749_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654146732134747730" /></a><br /><br />Philbin wrote about our recon of Good Girls like Bad Boys, a 6 pitch 5.12 route off of Madsen Ledge on the Upper Wall. “We used The Ave (5.8) as an approach pitch; not the most elegant outing even if you are fond of thorns, spiders and dirt. “ Philbin lead the first two pitches off Madsen Ledge, a pitch of 11c and a pitch of 5.12. While Drew managed to figure out the difficult slab mantle on the 5.12 pitch, the hard climbing proved my ineptitude on this style of climbing and we retreated as darkness fell. I vowed to return.<br /><br />Mikey, the other master of Index, and I hiked past the Upper Town Wall. The technical climbing had worked me and Schaefer wanted to get back into shape.<br /><br />“I’m gonna send on my last try,” I told Mikey at the base of Attractive Nuisance a route at the Outdoor Hangboard. The route follows a steep corner. A slab on the left side and overhanging incut granite holds on the right require drop knees, shoulder scums and wild body movement. Initially, the route was rated 5.13. In the new guidebook Daryl Kramer downgraded the route to 5.12c. Mikey tried the route 8 times before he sent. It took me 9. It’s hard to know what to believe sometimes. I do believe that I did it though. <br /><br />Locals hang signs outside their houses. No trespassing. Private Property. Trespassers will be shot. Survivors will be shot again. Index residents are known for having 12 Gauge Iqs.<br /><br />Built in 1898 to serve train passengers heading over Stevens Pass, the Bush House served as a hub for the small town of Index. Mrs. Bush, the owner, greeted travelers at the the train, ringing a bell and calling out “Bush House Hotel.” The Bush House served as a hub for the town, being the only place large enough to accommodate sizeable gatherings. Index’s largest building shut down when Snohomish County revoked the hotel's occupancy permit because of structural and public safety concerns. The hotel’s disrepair, the poor foundation and the collapsing structure, were just part of the concerns. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6H42hhdmJ2Kt-5MxKxnewB50gqyixHQm6zhwcAfsM102px00__T8eJQEoZBexoLdMen-af3w6vIm61bh_1Qzxd551x1YNKeE9hm-GyPRvZ2x2uw8_lHOHHnp43jbugq-_KQiQvfKLavu/s1600/298863_974312917008_6705292_44178133_5719964_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 298px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6H42hhdmJ2Kt-5MxKxnewB50gqyixHQm6zhwcAfsM102px00__T8eJQEoZBexoLdMen-af3w6vIm61bh_1Qzxd551x1YNKeE9hm-GyPRvZ2x2uw8_lHOHHnp43jbugq-_KQiQvfKLavu/s400/298863_974312917008_6705292_44178133_5719964_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654146736454511490" /></a><br /><br />Concrete tiles run perpendicular to the steel rails. Every other tile has a scuff mark, the white blasted line where metal hanging from the train connectors gouged the tile. This is what kills people on the train luge. Lay between tracks. Face up. Listen to the roar. Watch the sky vibrate. Hold still and the Amtrak will clear your body. If a chain hangs from the caboose, the train luge becomes serious. It’s possible. It just involves laying beneath the tracks and believing you’ll be ok.<br /><br /><iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/iO1tf9xYVwA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><br /><br />1907- Annabelle stayed at the hotel while her newly married husband worked in the Monte Cristo mine. Prospectors found rich surface deposits in the area but the past few years had been less fruitful. Annabel’s husband thought he could revive the mine, make money to support his new wife and build a family in Index. While eating dinner at table 2, a group of train passengers entered the hotel’s restaurant with news of a catastrophic accident in the mine. The rains of the past few days had flooded the mine, destroying much of the infrastructure. “Everyone died,” they said. Annabelle sat in shock fiddling with the silverware at her table. She left her food, returned to room 9, packed her bags and hung herself. Her husband returned a few days latter after narrowly escaping the accident. When he discovered her dead, he killed himself too. The ghost of a woman in a white dress walks through the hotel at night. Tears run down her face and onto her deeply bruised neck. When the hotel restaurant was open, visitors complained that the silverware at table 2 shifted while they were eating.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglPBIDYHViuiigwFlQn7YlFXejAi1csPuy4uY8A_9c9ELTiUX9ytPKcqZ0tB0OLLwLB1AJF-aDt2yszDjY4GCN_v_yYMC6dBDZCF8DqNX4FYx3nJNqgaO0Qix-gBFzbv3LN5hCZsmqmm62/s1600/294678_978662839728_6705292_44244525_1487619506_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglPBIDYHViuiigwFlQn7YlFXejAi1csPuy4uY8A_9c9ELTiUX9ytPKcqZ0tB0OLLwLB1AJF-aDt2yszDjY4GCN_v_yYMC6dBDZCF8DqNX4FYx3nJNqgaO0Qix-gBFzbv3LN5hCZsmqmm62/s400/294678_978662839728_6705292_44244525_1487619506_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654150758620361378" /></a><br /><br />We started hiking in the dark and reached the top as the sun rose. Jessica Campbell, a friend from nearby Leavenworth, and I rappelled into the crux pitches of Green Dragon. The classic Washington aid line goes free at 13- with a couple of face variations around the original aid line. Justen Sjong and Ben Gilkinson freed the route recently and gave it modern (read not sandbagged) grades. The last two pitches of 12c and 13a are the crux and we worked out the moves early in the morning. But soon, the sun was over Baring. The rock heated quickly. Our feet burned in our black shoes. Climbing became impossible. We retreated to the summit. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCzthKJdU-oEhl11S5XAo6Jmcb0lI9UCRGslakvm8cCZxjDOOHvvVNQ-I8J1uagmcWF3Rzbfdw8NOiHnvRweA2iuUve004dFok-bBYd3kKxCfyf-GreVAUydSZSoEPn2htw5hyphenhyphen-2l-lG4/s1600/good+girls+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 299px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCzthKJdU-oEhl11S5XAo6Jmcb0lI9UCRGslakvm8cCZxjDOOHvvVNQ-I8J1uagmcWF3Rzbfdw8NOiHnvRweA2iuUve004dFok-bBYd3kKxCfyf-GreVAUydSZSoEPn2htw5hyphenhyphen-2l-lG4/s400/good+girls+2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654144537164656738" /></a><br /><br />WSGS, the Washington State Ghost Society, investigated the paranormal activity at the Bush House a few years ago. The group spent the night, setting up video cameras and tape recorders to capture EVP, electromagnetic voice phenomenon. I’m not sure how the advanced scientific equipment worked. Probably like the fifth force testing. “Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic,” Arthur Clarke. In the morning when they reviewed their footage, the white silhouette of a small boy appeared running near the shed behind the Bush House. They heard his screams on the tape recorder. Interviews with locals revealed that a boy had been murdered in the shed. Or so the stories go. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5q1eaqJ12tUPwwrPJo30zflut-0WX8KvIMiTUTwuYKzN4iaO3yFbj9XQg0u1m7hmPcswsz0znc_fxvlPCe3FehL7KM722EXNjOaJQoQrE0BI3Jah6c3xxO2Bxiqf7Cezx6vAdUP94qWei/s1600/good+girls.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 299px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5q1eaqJ12tUPwwrPJo30zflut-0WX8KvIMiTUTwuYKzN4iaO3yFbj9XQg0u1m7hmPcswsz0znc_fxvlPCe3FehL7KM722EXNjOaJQoQrE0BI3Jah6c3xxO2Bxiqf7Cezx6vAdUP94qWei/s400/good+girls.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5654144537792692546" /></a><br /><br /> “This is the hardest pitch in the world, “ Mikey’s yell soaked into the mist of the Upper Town Wall. Our one headlamp jumped across the Upper Town Wall. Earlier that afternoon, Mikey redpointed the crux pitch. He managed the third pitch, put together the fourth, and the fifth. When darkness fell, he started up the last difficult 5.11 pitch. With a scream, the light of the headlamp levitated upward. The mist hid the moon. The air was cold and the rock colder. It was the magic time in Index. Mikey sent the pitch and took us through the difficult climbing to the summit. When it was my turn, I couldn’t figure out how he ascended the blank expanse of vertical rock. The fifth force? I pulled through and soon joined Mikey on his successful ground up ascent of Good Girls Like Bad Boys. It had been a daunting prospect but Mikey had succeeded. He believed.<br /><br />Rain wet the trail on the hike down from the Upper Town Wall. My headlamp picked out a newt walking down the trail, I’d seen a fist sized frog and a large snake hiking with Drew. Thumb sized brown spiders weaved webs between the trees. Where the pagans in this town because of these animals? Why were the scientists experimenting with the fifth force in a place like Index? What else lived in Index? I wanted to find magic in the woods.<br /><br />Previous owners nailed plywood to the windows and doors of the Bush Hotel. A small opening just pass a No Trespassing sign and above a piece of plywood, allowed entrance. I stared into the room full of dust and old couches wondering if I should go in. The voices of dead people sang in my ear. I turned off my Ipod and the voices ended. A little bit of the magic stopped. I turned around, and went back to my car. I was afraid of seeing ghosts. I was more scared of not seeing one. Finding a boring reality is more frightening than having those unknown possibilities, even dreadful ones. I want to live in a world of imagination. I want to believe in ghosts, magic and science.Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07827950737624979957noreply@blogger.com2